Drive to Cashapampa, or take local transport changing at Caraz.

Alpamayo's near-perfect pyramid shape and intricate ice routes make it a standout among the peaks of the Peruvian Andes. The climb offers a challenging yet rewarding experience, set against a backdrop of stunning glacial landscapes.

Located in the Arhuaycocha Valley, Base Camp serves as the main staging area for the ascent. It is the starting point for acclimatization and preparation.

Base Camp

High Camp is situated on the glacier and serves as the final staging area before the summit push. Climbers navigate through snow and ice to reach this camp.

High Camp

The summit of Alpamayo, reached by climbing the steep and technical southwest face. This section involves advanced ice climbing techniques.

Summit

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp, camping along the way (two days up, one down). It's a big walk up to high camp, which is shared with Quitaraju.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp (camping along the way). From base camp you climb up to high camp (same as for Quitaraju).

The weather in the Cordillera Blanca, where Alpamayo is located, varies significantly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are typically May through August, which are the dry season months with the most stable weather conditions.

Alpamayo

Jirishanca, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Andes," presents a formidable, near-vertical ascent that attracts experienced climbers. Its technical difficulty is matched by its aesthetic appeal, featuring a sharp, icy pinnacle surrounded by Peru's stunning mountainous landscape.

Jirishanca

Artesonraju is a climber&rsquo;s dream with its steep, pyramid-shaped face and challenging ice routes. Topping out on this peak gives you unrivaled views of the Cordillera Blanca and the satisfaction of conquering one of Peru's most stunning mountains. It is a technically demanding climb, often compared to peaks like <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/alpamayo">Alpamayo</a> in terms of difficulty. It requires solid ice climbing skills and experience with steep, exposed routes. While not as frequently climbed as <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/huascaran-sur">Huascar&aacute;n</a> or <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/alpamayo">Alpamayo</a>, it attracts seasoned mountaineers looking for a serious challenge in the Cordillera Blanca.

The starting point for the climb, located at 4,350 meters. It serves as the primary staging area before ascending the mountain.

Moraine Camp / High Camp, at 5,100 meters, is the final camp before the summit push.

Moraine Camp - Camp 1

The summit of Artesonraju stands at 6,025 meters, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding Cordillera Blanca.

The climb of Artesonraju involves starting from Base Camp at ~4,350 meters, ascending to Moraine Camp (Camp 1) at 4,900-5,100 meters, and then making the final push to the 6,025-meter summit. 

Moraine camp

Base camp

The most favorable period for climbing is during the Andean winter, which spans from June to September (with July/August being the best). During this time, the weather is generally drier and more stable, making it the preferred season for mountaineers. 

Artesonraju

Quitaraju's imposing ice faces and steep slopes offer a less crowded but equally challenging alternative to its more famous neighbors in the Peruvian Andes. The climb is a test of technical skills, set in an environment of striking natural beauty, including views of the nearby Alpamayo.

Quitaraju

Tocllaraju offers a balanced mix of technical climbing and high-altitude experience in the Peruvian Andes. Its diverse routes and accessible location make it an excellent choice for climbers looking to transition into more challenging 6,000-meter peaks.

Tocllaraju

Aconcagua offers a challenging ascent to the highest peak outside of Asia, serving as a magnet for adventurers seeking to conquer one of the Seven Summits. The climb showcases diverse landscapes, from arid lowlands to glaciated heights, providing a comprehensive mountaineering experience unlike any other.

The starting point for Aconcagua climbers, Plaza de Mulas is a well-equipped base camp situated at 4350 meters above sea level. It serves as the launchpad for the ascent.

Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas)

Located at 5000 meters, Camp 1 (Canada) is the first acclimatization stop on the Normal Route. It offers some shelter and is a good place to adjust to higher altitudes.

Camp 1 (Canada)

Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is situated at 5500 meters. It provides essential acclimatization and is known for its spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

Camp 2 (Nido de Cóndores)

The final camp used for the summit push is set up at either Camp Colera (6,000m) or Camp Berlin (5,950m). Both at around 6000m. Berlin used to be typical, but now Colera is favoured. Colera is bigger and better equipped.

Camp 3 (Colera or Berlin)

The summit of Aconcagua stands at 6962 meters, making it the highest point in the Americas. Climbers experience extreme cold, low oxygen, and breathtaking vistas at this pinnacle of their journey.

Summit (Aconcagua's Highest Point)

Although it demands significant physical effort, ascending this peak is considered one of the more attainable challenges among the Seven Summits.

Climbing Aconcagua requires a mandatory climbing permit, the cost of which varies depending on the season.

This permit is mandatory for climbing Aconcagua and covers park entry and basic rescue services.

Aconcagua Climbing Permit

Plaza de Mulas

Confluenca camp

Horcones

Aconcagua

From the Argentinian Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
 </li>
</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

Climbing Ojos del Salado, the world's highest volcano, offers a thrilling high-altitude adventure with desolate beauty and challenging conditions. The Chilean side provides easier access with basic refugios, while the Argentinian side demands more self-sufficiency. The final summit push involves loose, rotten rock and strong winds, testing your endurance.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

It's about a six hour drive from Arequipa.
The first half of the journey is on a great scenic road (that goes to Colpa canyon), and passes by Chachani and great landscapes - expect to see a lot of Vicunas.
Before the road reaches Colpa canyon, you turn left on a dirt track from where you might as well have gone back in time hundreds of years. It's a very scenic route then towards the valley where you'll find the base camp. A 4x4 is absolutely necessary - the route gets fairly water logged and you'll cross a couple of small streams.
Finally you'll be able to drive straight up to base camp at 5,200 meters.

Ampato is a stratovolcano located in the Andes of southern Peru, near Arequipa. It's known primarily for its historical significance as the site where the Inca Ice Maiden, Juanita, was discovered, preserved in ice near the summit. Climbing Ampato offers a moderately challenging ascent, usually tackled from a base camp around 4,900 meters, with the main challenge being the final push to its summit at 6,288 meters. The route involves glacier travel, so crampons and ice axes are essential. Weather conditions can vary greatly, and the wind can pick up unexpectedly, making the final stretch quite demanding. After climbing you can check out the Mummy museam in Arequipa and see the previous climber...

End of the trail, 4x4 needed to reach. Otherwise you can camp at 4,800.

A place to make camp, flat and somewhat sheltered. No water.

The summit of Ampato offers breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanoes and landscapes, including the nearby Sabancaya volcano. The summit push from high camp involves navigating glaciers and potential snowfields.

You can drive as high as 5,200m, but some stop earlier and make base camp between 4,800-5,000. 
There are spaces for a high camp at 5,500 too, but this is less necessary if you start at the absolute end of the road (5,200).

From base camp you slowly move up decent but loose terrain to high-camp (optional). From there it's a few hundred more vertical meters to the glacier. You can either go up the glacier or to its left (when looking up the mountain), but the ground is pretty loose so most go up the glacier and down the scree. From where the glacier tops out you're still 200 meters from the summit. A route up to the left is typical, as straight ahead to the summit has a lot of loose scree. Otherwise you can go right to a false summit and follow the ridge to the summit - but that's a longer way.

Shortly before base camp, after you cross the last stream there is an abandoned house/farm of sorts. It used to be a place to stay, but now is a relic of the past.
Either you drive in (with a 4x4) with absolutely everything you'll need, or go on an organised expedition from Arequipa.
The base camp is a three hour off-road drive on a route that sees very little traffic.

Ampato

Ancohuma stands as a towering challenge in the Bolivian Andes, offering experienced climbers a thrilling ascent through diverse terrains, from glacial paths to steep snow slopes. This climb is a true test of mountaineering skill and endurance, rewarding those who reach its summit with breathtaking views and a profound sense of accomplishment.

Ancohuma

Vallecitos, nestled in the Argentine Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through snow-covered slopes and rugged terrain, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the pristine landscapes of the high-altitude wilderness. What makes this climb truly enticing is the opportunity to explore a lesser-known peak, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty and solitude of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of conquering uncharted heights, creating an unforgettable journey for those seeking both the thrill of high-altitude exploration and the serenity of South American mountain landscapes.

Vallecitos

Bonete offers an invigorating ascent through diverse landscapes, blending lush forests with panoramic mountain vistas. Its unique allure lies in the harmonious fusion of challenging terrain and breathtaking natural beauty, promising a rewarding adventure for those seeking both physical and visual gratification.

Bonete

Tupungato, standing proudly in the Andes, invites climbers on an exhilarating ascent through challenging ice faces and rugged ridges, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the pristine landscapes of the Argentinean high-altitude wilderness. What makes this climb truly captivating is the opportunity to summit a majestic peak, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty and solitude of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of conquering uncharted heights, creating an unforgettable journey for those seeking both the thrill of high-altitude exploration and the serenity of South American mountain landscapes.

Tupungato

Nevado del Plomo, a 6000+ meter peak straddling the border of Argentina and Chile, offers climbers a challenging high-altitude experience through the Andes' rugged terrain. This ascent is marked by its remote and pristine natural environment, attracting those who seek a demanding climb coupled with the tranquility and sweeping vistas unique to this part of the Andes.

Nevado del Plomo

Pomerape, a striking peak in the Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through high-altitude deserts and snow-covered slopes, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the stunning landscapes of the Chilean wilderness. What makes this climb truly captivating is the chance to summit a dormant volcano, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the serene allure of South American mountaineering, creating an unforgettable journey for those drawn to the raw majesty of the Andes.

Pomerape

Climbed from Sajama town. Which is either a $90 taxi from La Paz, or $10 on public transport.

Once in Sajama you can walk to the base camp in 3-4 hours, or use one of many guide/services from the town - either transport only (to and from base camp), or including a guide.

Sajama, <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/bolivia">Bolivias</a> biggest peak, rising out of the desert is a great and unique peak to climb: Not easy but not technically difficult. A great climb for amateur mountaineers. It rises out from Sajama town, where there are three other - easy - 6k peaks on it's doorstep - great for acclimitising. Famous for it's wind, but with a high camp to break up the climb to 6500m.&nbsp;

The starting point for the ascent of Sajama, located at the foot of the mountain. Climbers acclimatize and prepare here before heading up. A small stream provides water.

Located at a strategic point on the mountain, this camp serves as the final staging area before the summit push. There is a lot of snow/ice to make water from.

The highest point in Bolivia, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Andes and surrounding areas. A very broad flat summit.

The climb of Sajama involves a straightforward route starting from the Base Camp at 4750m, with a single intermediate stop at High Camp at 5650m before reaching the Summit at 6542m.

The North west ridge is the typical route these days, with one of two base camps to use (depending on whether you drive or walk in) and one high camp.

Sajama

Chachacomani invites adventurers to explore the untouched beauty of the Bolivian Andes, featuring a captivating ascent through diverse ecosystems and high-altitude landscapes. What sets this climb apart is the opportunity to witness the stunning play of light on snow-capped peaks and azure skies, creating an unforgettable and humbling experience for those drawn to the allure of pristine mountain wilderness.

Chachacomani

Ausangate, towering in the Peruvian Andes, presents a challenging yet rewarding climb, renowned for its striking glacial landscapes and vibrant alpine lakes. This peak offers a profound connection with nature and local Quechua culture, making it an ideal choice for climbers seeking both a physical challenge and cultural immersion.

Ausangate

Take transport from Huaraz to Yuangay, from there its a walk up to base camp. 
Many trekkers come to this trailhead too, so arranging a shared taxi is also a good idea.

Chopicalqui, a hidden gem in the Peruvian Andes, beckons climbers with its elegant pyramid shape and a captivating ascent that weaves through pristine glacial landscapes. What sets this climb apart is the harmonious blend of technical challenges and stunning panoramic views, offering an enriching adventure for those drawn to the beauty of high-altitude peaks and the thrill of conquering less-explored summits.

The starting point of the climb, offering a good area for acclimatization and preparation before the ascent begins. A one hour walk from the trail head. Good water.

A transitional camp set on a rocky moraine; serves as a key rest stop before tackling the glacier. Water is available 15 minutes away.

Moraine Camp

Located on the glacier, this camp is used for acclimatization and staging for the summit push. The terrain becomes significantly icier and requires the use of crampons and ice axes.

High camp

The summit of Chopicalqui offers panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca, including nearby peaks such as Huascaran and Pisco.

The ascent of Chopicalqui progresses through several camps, starting from Base Camp at 4350 meters up to the Summit at 6354 meters. Key stops include Moraine Camp for initial acclimatization, followed by High Camp for further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers must navigate glaciers and steep ice with appropriate gear.

From the trail head it's 45 minute walk to base camp. Useful for acclimatisation, but otherwise you can go straight to Moraine camp the first day,

Chopicalqui

Salcantay, a majestic peak in the Peruvian Andes, invites climbers on a captivating ascent through challenging ice faces and breathtaking ridges, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the stunning landscapes of the Sacred Valley. What makes this climb truly enticing is the opportunity to conquer one of the highest peaks in the region, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty and cultural richness of the Andes while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of unexplored terrain, creating an unforgettable journey for those seeking both adventure and the magic of ancient Incan landscapes.

Salcantay

Copa, a mesmerizing peak in the Andes, entices climbers with its serene ascent through remote valleys and rugged ridges, showcasing the untouched beauty of the Peruvian wilderness. What makes this climb truly special is the opportunity to summit a challenging peak while immersing oneself in the tranquility of the surrounding landscape, offering a unique and rewarding adventure for those seeking a harmonious balance between challenge and natural splendor.

Copa

Ranrapalca, a captivating peak in the Peruvian Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through icy faces and dramatic ridges, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Cordillera Blanca. What makes this climb truly enticing is the opportunity to summit a lesser-explored peak, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty and tranquility of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of unexplored terrain, creating an unforgettable journey for those seeking both solitude and the thrill of high-altitude exploration.

Ranrapalca

It's a 5-6 hour drive from Arequipa, the main staging point for climbing Coropuna.

Coropuna is a massive volcanic complex in southern Peru, notable for being the highest volcano in the country at 6,377 meters. It's relatively isolated, situated in the Arequipa region, and consists of several summits, with the northern one being the highest. The climb isn't technically demanding compared to other high Andean peaks, but it requires good acclimatization due to the altitude. The typical approach involves a high-altitude camp from where you can attempt the summit and return. The landscape is stark and the area is often windswept, with weather that can shift rapidly, so preparation is key. The remote nature of Coropuna offers a quieter climbing experience, ideal if you&rsquo;re looking to avoid the more crowded routes found on peaks like Huascar&aacute;n.

More or less at the end of the dirt road. The track splits in two and you can camp at the end of either fork.

High Camp is positioned to support the final summit attempt, located strategically to allow climbers to start their summit push during the early morning hours to capitalize on stable weather conditions.

The summit of Coropuna offers expansive views of the surrounding volcanic landscape and is the highest point on the mountain, providing a challenging but rewarding climax to the climb.

The Coropuna climbing itinerary involves progressing from Base Camp at 4800 meters to Camp 1 and High Camp before reaching the summit at 6425 meters. This route is designed for acclimatization and tactical rests, with the final push from High Camp to the summit typically starting pre-dawn to utilize the most stable weather conditions.

Coropuna

Chachani, with its commanding presence in the Peruvian Andes, offers an enthralling ascent that combines a challenging climb with breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanoes and expansive desert landscapes. The unique allure lies in the opportunity to stand atop a dormant volcano, savoring both the physical accomplishment and the awe-inspiring panoramic vistas that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Chachani

Chimborazo, Ecuador's crown jewel, beckons climbers with its lofty stature as the highest peak in the country and the closest point to the sun on Earth. Ascending this majestic volcano not only promises the thrill of conquering a challenging summit but also offers the unique distinction of standing on the planet's farthest point from its center, making it an extraordinary and humbling adventure.

No permits are needed but hiring a guide is mandatory.

Chimborazo

Pissis, a colossal peak in the Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through high-altitude deserts and icy slopes, promising an extraordinary journey amidst the stunning landscapes of the Argentine wilderness. What makes this climb truly captivating is the opportunity to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Americas, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of unexplored terrain, creating an unforgettable adventure for those seeking both solitude and the thrill of high-altitude exploration.

Pissis

Tres Cruces Sur, standing proudly in the Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through snow-covered slopes and rocky ridges, promising an extraordinary adventure amidst the pristine landscapes of the Chilean high-altitude desert. What makes this climb truly captivating is the opportunity to summit a remote peak, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty and solitude of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the sheer awe of conquering uncharted heights, creating an unforgettable journey for those seeking both the thrill of high-altitude exploration and the serenity of South American mountain landscapes.

Tres Cruces Sur

<ul>
 <li>From Lima: 
 <ul>
 <li>By Bus: Long-distance bus services such as Cruz del Sur and Movil Tours offer trips from Lima to Huaraz, which take about 7 hours. This is the most common and economical option.</li>
 <li>By Flight: There are commercial flights from Lima to Huaraz airport (ATA), but these services are infrequent.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>From Huaraz to Musho:
 <ul>
 <li>By Taxi: A direct taxi from Huaraz to Musho takes about 1.5 hours. The cost can vary, but expect to pay around 200 Soles for the trip to Musho.</li>
 <li>By Collectivo: Take a collectivo (shared minibus) to Mancos, then a taxi from Mancos to Musho. Cheaper but more timely.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Huascarán Sur, the highest peak in Peru, offers challenging climbs with routes ranging from PD to AD difficulty. It's a must-climb for experienced mountaineers looking to tackle the iconic Cordillera Blanca. The climb is typically approached from Huaraz, with the best time of year being May to August. This peak provides a rewarding experience with its demanding routes and breathtaking views.

Base Camp at 4200m is the starting point for the climb, accessible via a mule track from Musho.

Refugio Don Bosco at 4650m offers food, beverages, and bunk beds, located 1.5 hours from Base Camp.

Refugio Don Bosco

Campo Uno at 5300m is located on the glacier and is typically reached in about 4 hours from Refugio Don Bosco.

Campo Uno

Campo Dos at 5850m is at the western end of Garganta, the key pass, and is usually reached in 4-5 hours from Campo Uno.

Campo Dos

The summit of Huascarán Sur at 6768m, the highest point in Peru, offering challenging climbs and spectacular views.

Huascarán Sur Summit

This climb from Base Camp to the summit of Huascarán Sur skips Moraine camp in favour of the regue. Taking 5 days to complete the ascent and descent assuming a summit day descent to camp 2. For some returning all the way down - and saving a day - is fine.

To climb Huascarán Sur, you need a park entry ticket and either a certified guide or a climbing permit. These can be obtained in Huaraz.

Required for entry into the national park.

Parque Nacional Huascarán Entry Ticket

Required if not climbing with a certified guide, proving experience and insurance.

Climbing Permit

Camp 1

Camp 2

Huascarán Sur experiences diverse weather conditions throughout the year. The best time to climb Huascarán Sur is typically from May to September, which coincides with the dry season, offering more stable and favorable weather conditions for climbing. The wet season from November to April brings higher rainfall and less predictable weather, making climbs more challenging.

Huascaran Sur

Mercedario, a hidden gem in the Andes, beckons climbers with its challenging ascent through snow-covered slopes and rocky ridges, promising a captivating journey amidst the pristine landscapes of the Argentine wilderness. What makes this climb truly enticing is the opportunity to conquer one of South America's highest peaks, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and awe-inspiring scenery that defines the allure of high-altitude mountaineering.

Mercedario

Cazadero unfolds as a hidden gem for climbers, boasting a blend of technical challenges and serene beauty in the heart of California's wilderness. Its unique charm lies in the untouched natural surroundings, promising an authentic and exhilarating experience for those seeking a lesser-known yet captivating ascent.

Cazadero

Huascaran Norte, the slightly lower summit on Peru's highest peak, invites climbers to embark on a mesmerizing ascent through the heart of the Andes, showcasing a thrilling blend of challenging ice and rock sections against a backdrop of stunning glacial landscapes. What makes this climb truly irresistible is the chance to stand atop the roof of Peru, experiencing the rich cultural tapestry of the region while conquering a peak that epitomizes the raw beauty and grandeur of South American high-altitude exploration.

Huascaran Norte

Climbing Cotopaxi offers a breathtaking journey up one of the world's highest active volcanoes, where the thrill of ascending through diverse ecosystems culminates in awe-inspiring views from the summit. Its unique blend of challenging terrain and the surreal, moon-like landscape near the top provides an unforgettable adventure for those seeking to embrace nature's majesty.

Cotopaxi 

Incahuasi, a gem of the Andes, presents climbers with an extraordinary journey across diverse terrains, from vast salt flats to ancient volcanic landscapes. Its unique combination of geological wonders and panoramic summit views offers a deeply rewarding experience for those seeking both adventure and a profound connection with the natural world.

Incahuasi

Marmolejo, towering in the Andes, invites climbers on a thrilling ascent through snow-covered slopes and icy ridges, promising an adventure amidst the pristine landscapes of the Chilean wilderness. What makes this climb truly enticing is the chance to conquer the highest peak in Chile, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and awe-inspiring scenery that defines the allure of South American mountaineering.

Marmolejo

Pili, known also as Acamarachi, invites climbers on an enthralling ascent through high-altitude deserts and rocky slopes, promising a unique adventure amidst the stark landscapes of the Atacama region. What makes this climb truly enticing is the chance to summit a volcanic peak, immersing oneself in the raw beauty of the Chilean wilderness while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the serene allure of South American mountaineering, creating an unforgettable journey for those drawn to the captivating heights of the Andes.

Acamarachi

Parinacota, a captivating peak in the Andes, invites climbers on a mesmerizing ascent through high-altitude deserts and snow-covered slopes, promising an extraordinary journey amidst the stunning landscapes of the Chilean wilderness. What makes this climb truly enticing is the chance to summit a dormant volcano, immersing oneself in the untouched beauty of the region while experiencing the unique blend of technical challenge and the serene allure of South American mountaineering, creating an unforgettable adventure for those drawn to the raw majesty of the Andes.

If climbing from Bolivia, most will take a ride straight from Sajama village to the trail head / refuge and start their ascent. Alternatively walk (or drive) in and stay the night there first for more acclimatisation. There is also a space to camp at ~4850m (but ultimately you can camp anywhere - this spot is just used as it's about as far as some vehicles want to go).

Refuge

Parinacota

Acotango, a majestic peak on the Chile-Bolivia border, offers climbers a unique blend of accessibility and high-altitude experience, set against the backdrop of the stunning Andean landscape. Its relatively straightforward ascent is perfect for those looking to step into high-altitude mountaineering, providing a rewarding journey with panoramic views that are simply unforgettable.

Acotango

A 4x4 is best for the route up to base camp, but a normal vehicle can probably do it. 
To Pinaya you could find local transport going there. All guided trips would have this arranged for you / your group.
From Pinaya to base camp there is only private transport options - or walking.
It's just a few hours from Illimani, but half the journey is on bumpy roads.

Illimani, the guardian of La Paz is a striking sight and equally stunning climb. Just a few hours from La Paz, and with a well trodden base camp and high camp, make this challenging peak a nice step into higher altitude climbing. The classic route is challenging enough to be interesting without being too demanding. The views from the top are sublime. La Paz, Lake Titicaca, and other Andean peaks - and of Illimanis lower north summit are a sight to behold.

A field where base camps are erected. There is a good water source, and even two toilets have been built.

High camp located at 5,500 meters. A flat platform with exception views, the ice / snow starts immediately after.

Nido de Cóndores

The highest point of Illimani, offering spectacular views of the Andes.

The climb starts at Base Camp (4400m), ascends to Nido de Cóndores (5500m) for acclimatization, and culminates at the Summit (6438m). The route involves glacier travel and high-altitude exposure, demanding basic technical skills and acclimatization.

For climbing Illimani, you will need to obtain a national park entrance fee, which can be purchased locally.

This fee grants access to the national park area where Illimani is located.

National Park Entrance Fee

Either walk from Pinaya to base camp, or drive up if you have your own transport. From there it's a three hour walk up to high camp, and then around 5 hours to the summit.

Illimani summit

Condors nest - high camp

The best months to climb Illimani are typically from May to September, when the weather is more stable, and the chances of precipitation are lower. During these months, temperatures are cold, especially at higher elevations, but climbers can generally expect clearer skies and more predictable conditions. Outside of these months, the weather can be more variable, with higher chances of rain and snow, making the climb more challenging.

Illimani

About three hours drive from La Paz is Sorata, a nice little town to grab lunch.
From there a decent dirt road heads up the valley to Lacatya. Where you can either camp and start walking (with / without donkeys), or continue up a rough 4x4 track to near the top of the valley - from where it's just 30 minutes to the pass and 30 minutes down the other side to base camp.

Illampu (Bolivias most difficult mountain) is a great challenge for those who want to try something more difficult than Huayna Potosi, Illimani, or Sajama. It's a few hours from La Paz, but requires a longer walk in (one day) and after a relaxed glacier walk demands a 300m wall climb followed by 500m of climbing through varying slopes to reach the summit. The accomplishment of such a mountain comes with striking views of neighbouring Ancohuma, close up views to Lake Titicaca, and then a long descent... You'll probably have the peak to yourself on summit day, yet being so near La Paz this is a great option for those wanting a tougher climb without such a serious 'expedition effort' to get there.

The starting point for the climb, located at the base of Illampu.

Base Camp - Aguas Calientes

The primary high camp where climbers acclimatize and prepare for the summit push.

An advanced high camp used by some climbers to shorten the summit day.

Advanced High Camp

The summit of Illampu, offering challenging routes and stunning views of the Andes.

Driving up from Sorata you'll reach Lacatya. From here you can hire donkeys to head up the valley and over to base camp (Aguas Calientes). These days there's a 4x4 track that extends all the way up the valley, so alternatively drive that and walk a last hour over the pass to base camp.

The climb starts at Base Camp (4400m), moves to High Camp (5100m) and potentially to Advanced High Camp (5600m), before the final push to the Summit (6368m).
However if you are already acclimatised then just one high camp around 5300m is fine.
If you high camp at 5300m then there's 1-2 hours to the top of the glacier where the wall and real climbing begins.

For the typical route there are still a couple of options, both to do with acclimitization and your pace:
- walk in from Lacatya (with / without donkeys)
- use one or two high camps

Mountaineering in South America

Climbs in South America

Pictures from climbing in South America