<p><br><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal">Nepal</a> has three classic 'first 6000 meter peak' mountains: <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island Peak</a> (6,189m), <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a> (6,119m), and <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera peak</a> (6,476m).</p>
<p>All are ideal for anyone with some entry level mountaineering experience, but are of course a big step up given the altitude.&nbsp;</p>
<p>They are all in the Everest region, although <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera peak</a> is quite a detour. &nbsp;Whereas <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a> and <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> are simpler additions on to an Everest trek (Everest base camp, or Everest three passes). Many will add them on to a trek, since that way not only do you get to hike through one of the worlds most beautiful and best equipped trekking regions - you also acclimatise nicely for the said climb.</p>
<p>First of all, let's look at each mountain before comparing them.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Island Peak</h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/150-large.jpg"></div>
<p>This is probably the most popular, as many see it as being easier than <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche</a> (the other option that's easy to add on to an Everest region trek. It's less steep than <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a>, although does have quite a few obstacles.</p>
<p>Most of the climb is a straight forward hike up to crampon point at around 5500 meters. From there you must traverse one or two crevasses. Ladders are set up to help here. You're attached to ropes at all times, but this is still a bit unnerving.&nbsp;</p>
<p>After crossing the crevasse and taking a meandering but gentle path in between them up the glacier, you'll get to a final incline. It's about 45-50 degrees, and with fixed ropes. Likely there'll be some traffic here given the mountains popularity. Given how high you've climbed, the traffic presents a welcome slow down before reaching the summit.</p>
<p>Read more about: <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a>.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Lobuche East</h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/2006-large.jpg"></div>
<p><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> is much higher up towards Everest base camp and is often used by Everest climbers to acclimate. You will start from a high camp (5,450m) making the climb only (650 meters), and optionally stay in the lower base camp on the way if not already acclimated.</p>
<p>It's about 2-3 hours from Lobuche village to high camp. 30-40 minutes just to the base camp.</p>
<p>It has a reputation of being 'more technical' than <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a>, but I don't think this is true. It is a bit of a steep scramble in one or two places between high camp and crampon point - but nothing at all difficult. There are some ropes to hold on to as you find your way up.</p>
<p>The route up from high camp to crampon point is largely solid rock. So it is a little steep in places, but ultimately easier to move up compared to loose scree (as on <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a>).</p>
<p>From crampon point it's straight up. The slope is around 50 degrees, and has fixed lines all the way up. It's steep enough to be somewhat tiring, but not so steep it's scary.<br>You'll gain height faster too, which is a plus.</p>
<p>Slowly, as the sun comes up you'll approach the summit. A lovely narrow ridge which affords incredible views of surrounding peaks and valleys.</p>
<p>Read more about: <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a>.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Mera Peak</h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1197-large.jpg"></div>
<p><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera Peak</a> is the tallest of all three (6,476m), but perhaps the easiest.&nbsp;</p>
<p>It has a base camp and high camp, and from there it's just a 700 meter push to the summit.</p>
<p>Despite its height, it's regarded as an easier 6000 meter peak for beginners since the route up to the summit is very gentle.</p>
<p>From Lukla, where you'll likely fly into (but hiking in is a beautiful option - and affords better acclimatisation), it's 5-6 days east to base camp. This is in the opposite direction to Everest region. This means you avoid the hordes of crowds, but if you plan to trek EBC will prolong your trip a lot.</p>
<p>Read more about: <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera Peak</a>.</p>
<h2>Comparison</h2>
<h3>Difficulty</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera peak</a> is technically the easiest, followed by <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> and <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> in joint second place. <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche</a> is steeper but more straight forward. <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> is not steep, but has more obstacles to get past. Given <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera's</a> extra height, more endurance is needed. Those few hundred metres will feel like a lot more above 6000 meters.</p>
<h3>Summit push gain</h3>
<p>How high will you ascend on summit night</p>
<p>Island peak: 1,100 meters (or if you use high camp - 900 meters, but few use this option)<br>Lobuche east: 600 meters<br>Mera peak: 700 meters</p>
<h3>Practicality</h3>
<p><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> and <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> are easy to slot on to any Everest region trek (but arrange your tour or permits before leaving Kathmandu). <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera Peak</a> is a lot quicker to access from these other two, although that's only a plus if you are just climbing one of the peaks and not planing on trekking EBC/etc too.</p>
<h3>Views</h3>
<p>All give spectacular views. Although I'd say <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> has the best. Not only can you see the biggest peaks in the world (and one of the most beautiful - <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/ama-dablam">Ama Dablam</a>), you also have a great view down the main valleys of the Everest region. <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> has a great view of <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/ama-dablam">Ama Dablam</a>, however it is also very close to Lhotse (8,516m), which when towering over you makes your 6,189m summit seem kind of small :(<br><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera</a> has exceptional views to a sea of huge peaks. It also has great views from its high camp.</p>
<h2>What else to consider</h2>
<h3>Guide options</h3>
<p>For guided trips you would typically book a 2-3 week trip with an agency in Kathmandu. However if you are doing <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a> or <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> and just adding it on to a trek in that region, you only need the guide for the climb (for two days). It's possible to arrange in advance to meet your guide on whatever date at the base camp. This is something quite unique in <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal">Nepal</a>, where guides will go direct to base camps, or be based there for two months in the climbing season. Doing this can save you quite a bit of money. I did this when climbing Island peak - arranging a guide for two days for about $300 (for two people inc permits) - quite some years back, while trekking the Everest three passes circuit.</p>
<h3>Fitness / Stamina</h3>
<p>Although all these peaks are 'easy first 6000 meter' objectives. Don't underestimate the fitness and stamina needed to reach the summit. At these altitudes a 1000 meter gain requires a huge effort (not dissimilar to completing a marathon).</p>
<h3>Gear rental</h3>
<p>If you join an organised expedition, you'll likely get all your gear included.<br>Kathmandu has an infinite number of gear shops where you can buy or rent absolutely everything.<br>Similarly for each of these peaks you can rent everything more or less at the tea house village closest to the base camp. This is obviously a good option to save money (gear is rented by the day - so you can rent just for two days instead of two to three weeks) and carrying it.</p>
<h3>Walk in or fly</h3>
<p>For all these peaks you'll pass through Lukla. Most fly straight in.<br>It's an amazing flight, but comes with its own problems. The airport is used also by the thousands (and thousands and thousands) of Everest base camp trekkers. This can become a big problem when bad weather grounds all flights (which happens practically every year - often multiple times, for days at a time). Many trips have been ruined due to this. Many factor in an extra contingency day, but that's often not enough when bad weather hangs around.<br>Alternatively you can take a bus to Salleri, and then walk in to Lukla over three extra days (four including the bus). This is a beautiful extra section to trek, taking you through lush forests past huge rivers and waterfalls. It's a much quieter trail compared to further up, and something most will overlook. These extra days will also help with acclimatisation, taking you up to altitude more gradually - and letting your lungs work too which really helps.<br>Personally I'd recommend this option if you have the time.</p>
<h3>Cost</h3>
<p>All three peaks will cost about the same. Although if you plan to do an Everest trek (Everest base camp, Everest three passes, Gokyo) then it's cheaper to just add on <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> or <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> (since it works out as just two extra days each) whereas <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera peak</a> would mean adding a week on to your trip.</p>
<h3>Health</h3>
<p>Many get sick in Everest region. If doing a trek expecting to acclimatise and then tackle <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> or <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche</a> in the best health this can often backfire. If you get diarrhoea it'll drain you completely, and you may find replenishing you energy once better harder than usual given that there's not much (or any) fruit available at tea houses. Take extra care with sanitisers etc, and take a few different medications to cover the basic travel sicknesses.</p>
<h3>Time of year / Weather</h3>
<p>All three peaks are the same in this regard, to be climbed either in the Spring or Autumn season. See the <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal">Nepal page</a> for more details. Both seasons have pros and cons so you can't really go wrong. If you go in Autumn, the skies are generally blue and crisp - the summer monsoons have settled all the dust. Spring can be colder. But when the monsoon will finish is hard to predict, some years it hangs around a couple of weeks longer than expected, making planning for this nice period tougher.&nbsp;<br><a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/mera-peak">Mera</a> is more exposed, so can feel colder. Mitts over your gloves are necessary (I'd where three pairs - check the <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/articles/what-and-how-to-pack-for-a-6000-meter-mountain-climb-complete-guide-and-ultimate-gear-checklist-and-how-to-best-use-the-gear-effectively">gear packing article</a> for more tips).</p>
<h3>Permits</h3>
<p>All these peaks require permits. Both <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche East</a> and <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/island-peak">Island peak</a> are in Sagarmartha national park and thus require two tickets.<br>Permits are available in Kathmandu, but if you go on an organised tour this is taken care of for you. The park entrance fees are paid as you get/enter the park in cash.&nbsp;</p>
<h3>Future peaks</h3>
<p>If you go for <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/lobuche-east">Lobuche east</a> or <a href="https://www.guidedpeaks.com/climbing/asia/nepal/ama-dablam">Ama Dablam</a> you'll pass by some of the worlds most spectacular mountains. This is a blessing and a curse... Probably a few stick in your mind to slowly draw you back...</p>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1073-large.jpg"></div>

A guide comparing Nepal’s beginner-friendly 6000-meter peaks: Island Peak, Lobuche East, and Mera Peak. Compare difficulty, altitude, views, and practicality to choose your ideal first high-altitude climb.

Comparing Island Peak, Lobuche East, and Mera Peak: A Guide to Nepal’s Best Beginner 6000 Meter Climbs

<p><iframe src="../../../iframes/smallpeaks.html" style="width: 100%; height: 600px; border: none;" sandbox="allow-scripts" title="Map of 5000 meter mountains in south america for Acclimatization"></iframe></p>
<p>If you're going to South America to climb a 6,000 meter peak you can use this map of 388 mountains to find suitable acclimatization peaks near your chosen climb.</p>
<p>They're broken down by height as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>5,000 - 5,200 meters: Yellow</li>
<li>5,200 - 5,400 meters: Orange</li>
<li>5,400 - 5,600 meters: Red</li>
<li>5,600 - 5,800 meters: Blue</li>
<li>5,800 - 6,000 meters: Purple</li>
<li>Unknown: White</li>
</ul>
<h2>Acclimatization</h2>
<p>Acclimatization is a natural physiological process. As you spend more time at higher altitudes, your body changes the ratio of white/red blood cells (or something like that), thus making you capable of operating at progressively higher altitudes.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>Most achieve this by slowly going higher and higher each day. Typically the body is capable of acclimatizing at about 300 vertical meters per day. This varies person to person, but expect 250-400m.</p>
<p><br>"Climb high, sleep low" is the trusted maxim. In that it's the altitude you sleep at that really matters, but that going higher than that during the day - or exerting your self at that altitude is what will aid your acclimatization the most.</p>
<p>Alternatively you can take two other paths:</p>
<ol>
<li>Diamox / similar. Start taking it a day ahead of your climb starting. It comes with side effects, so many avoid this option completely.</li>
<li>Altitude tents. If you have the money, sleep in an altitude tent for a couple of weeks before your trip, progressing the 'altitude' each night. This really isn't a cheap option.</li>
</ol>
<p>But for most, shortcuts aren't what they climb mountains for. So that leaves you with two <em>natural</em> options:</p>
<ol>
<li>Climb various smaller peaks on the way to your main objective</li>
<li>Do rotations on the main peak itself (eg Base camp to camp 1 and back, then to camp 1 and camp 2 but back to camp 1 to sleep, etc)</li>
</ol>
<p>The first option I think is way more fun. You don't have to climb the same section twice (or more), and you get to see more places. Although if you really want to get to know a mountain - option two makes more sense.</p>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img title="acclimatzation when mountaineering in south america" src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1937-large.jpg"></div>
<h2>Mountaineering in South America</h2>
<p>With your acclimatzation out of the way, you can focus on climbing. Check out these starting points for each Country.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru">Peru</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../climbing/south-america/argentina">Argentina</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../climbing/south-america/chile">Chile</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../climbing/south-america/bolivia">Bolivia</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../climbing/south-america/ecuador">Ecuador</a></li>
</ul>

Explore this comprehensive guide to the acclimatization peaks between 5000 and 6000 meters in South America. Ideal for climbers preparing for 6000+ meter expeditions, this resource includes a detailed map and insights on how to safely and effectively acclimatize.

Where to find 5,000m peaks, throughout south america when acclimatizing for bigger mountains

388 Acclimitization peaks in South America: Ultimate list of 5000m peaks

Discover what to pack for a 6000 meter mountain climb with this complete guide and ultimate gear checklist. Learn about essential gear and packing tips.

What and how to pack for a 6000 meter mountain climb: complete guide and ultimate gear checklist and how to best use the gear effectively

<p>South America is home to some of the most breathtaking and challenging peaks in the world. From towering Andean giants to volcanic summits, the continent offers a diverse range of climbing experiences for mountaineers. Here are the top 10 must-climb peaks in South America that every serious climber should consider.</p>
<p>Check out each mountains page for more info.</p>
<h2>1. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/ecuador/cotopaxi">Cotopaxi (5,897m) - Ecuador</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1607-large.jpg"></div>
<p>One of the most active volcanoes in the world, Cotopaxi is a popular climb for its symmetrical cone and challenging conditions.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Active volcano with stunning features</li>
<li>Accessible glaciated climb</li>
<li>Proximity to Quito</li>
</ul>
<h2>2. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/ecuador/chimborazo">Chimborazo (6,263m) - Ecuador</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1582-large.jpg"></div>
<p>The farthest point from the Earth's center due to the equatorial bulge, Chimborazo offers a unique climbing experience.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Glaciated routes</li>
<li>High-altitude experience with easier access</li>
<li>Rich cultural heritage in the surrounding areas</li>
</ul>
<h2>3. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/bolivia/illimani">Illimani (6,438m) - Bolivia</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1811-large.jpg"></div>
<p>Overlooking La Paz, Illimani is a prominent and challenging climb with multiple routes.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Iconic peak visible from La Paz</li>
<li>Technical routes with glaciated terrain</li>
</ul>
<h2>4. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/bolivia/sajama">Sajama (6,542m) - Bolivia</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1681-large.jpg"></div>
<p>The highest peak in Bolivia, Sajama offers a technical climb with breathtaking views of the Altiplano.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Technical ice and snow routes</li>
<li>Stunning views of the Altiplano</li>
</ul>
<h2>5. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/argentina/pissis">Monte Pissis (6,793m) - Argentina</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1730-large.jpg"></div>
<p>The third highest peak in the Western Hemisphere, yet Monte Pissis is a remote and less-traveled climb.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Remote and less crowded</li>
<li>High-altitude desert environment</li>
<li>Challenging logistics and access</li>
</ul>
<h2>6. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/argentina-chile/ojos-del-salado">Ojos del Salado (6,893m) - Chile</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1426-large.jpg"></div>
<p>The highest volcano in the world, Ojos del Salado is known for its dry conditions and volcanic landscape.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Unique volcanic terrain</li>
<li>High-altitude challenge</li>
<li>Accessibility by vehicle to base camp</li>
</ul>
<h2>7. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/huascaran-sur">Huascar&aacute;n Sur (6,768m) - Peru</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1624-large.jpg"></div>
<p>As the highest peak in Peru, Huascar&aacute;n Sur presents a formidable challenge with its steep ice and snow routes.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Technical climbing on ice and snow</li>
<li>Stunning vistas of the Cordillera Blanca</li>
<li>Rich mountaineering history</li>
</ul>
<h2>8. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/alpamayo">Alpamayo (5,947m) - Peru</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1202-large.jpg"></div>
<p>Known for its striking pyramid shape, Alpamayo is often considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Technical and photogenic peak</li>
<li>Steep ice and snow routes</li>
<li>Located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca</li>
</ul>
<h2>9. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/peru/chopicalqui">Chopicalqui (6,354m) - Peru</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1603-large.jpg"></div>
<p>Part of the Huascar&aacute;n massif, Chopicalqui offers a challenging climb with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Technical ice and snow climbing</li>
<li>Stunning views of the Cordillera Blanca</li>
<li>Often combined with Huascar&aacute;n expeditions</li>
</ul>
<h2>10. <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/argentina/aconcagua">Aconcagua (6,960m) - Argentina</a></h2>
<div class="mce-inserted-image"><img src="https://guidedtrekking.nyc3.cdn.digitaloceanspaces.com/thumbs/1382-large.jpg"></div>
<p>The highest peak outside of Asia, Aconcagua is a major draw for mountaineers worldwide. Known for its non-technical routes, it offers a challenging high-altitude climb.</p>
<p><strong>Highlights</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>Non-technical routes available (Normal Route)</li>
<li>Stunning views of the Andes</li>
<li>Very well established camps - as comfortable as you'll get in South America</li>
<li>One of the seven summits</li>
</ul>
<h4>Conclusion</h4>
<p>These ten peaks represent a great sample of what mountaineering has to offer in South America. From easy to difficult routes, popular, to remote. Dry rock, or ice. Expedition, or alpine style climbs. South America's mountains have something for every climber.</p>

Explore the top 10 must-climb peaks in South America, offering a diverse range of mountaineering experiences. From easy to difficult routes, popular to remote locations, dry rock to ice, and expedition to alpine style climbs, these peaks have something for every climber.

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