Mountaineering in peru

Why climb in Peru

Peru is a premier destination for mountaineers aiming to tackle 6,000-meter peaks, offering a mix of technical challenges and breathtaking scenery. The Cordillera Blanca range, part of the Andes, is home to Huascarán, Peru's highest peak at 6,768 meters. This mountain is a magnet for serious climbers due to its formidable height and the technical skill required to reach its summit. Alpamayo, though slightly lower at 5,947 meters, is often cited as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world with its stunning ice flutes and challenging climbs. These peaks, along with others like Tocllaraju (6,032 meters) and Chopicalqui (6,354 meters), provide mountaineers with a diverse array of high-altitude climbing opportunities.

In addition to the Cordillera Blanca, the Cordillera Huayhuash offers another incredible playground for high-altitude climbers. The peaks in this region, such as Yerupajá (6,634 meters) and Siula Grande (6,344 meters), are renowned for their dramatic, rugged beauty and challenging ascents. The remoteness and fewer crowds compared to the Cordillera Blanca make Huayhuash a preferred choice for those seeking solitude and a more pristine climbing environment. The combination of awe-inspiring landscapes, technical routes, and rich cultural experiences make Peru a top destination for mountaineers aiming to conquer some of the world's highest and most beautiful peaks.

Aside from world class mountaineering, there are excellent treks and of course many famous historical heritage sites to explore - not to mention great food.

 

When to climb in Peru

The best time to go climbing in Peru is:

  • May to August

The best time to go mountaineering in Peru is during the dry season, which runs from May to September. This period offers the most stable weather conditions, with clear skies and minimal precipitation, making it ideal for high-altitude climbs. June to August is particularly favorable, as these months typically provide the best climbing conditions with lower risks of avalanches and rockfalls.

The wet season, from October to April, is generally not recommended for mountaineering due to heavy rainfall and unstable weather conditions. During this time, the mountains experience frequent storms, and the increased precipitation can lead to dangerous climbing conditions such as avalanches and landslides. However, early in the wet season (October and November) and late (April) can sometimes offer brief windows of good weather.

Where to climb in Peru

Mountaineering in peru

The Cordillera Blanca is the most famous mountaineering region in Peru, known for its high concentration of 6,000-meter peaks. Huascarán National Park, where these mountains are located, provides a well-developed infrastructure for climbers, including numerous base camps and established routes. This range boasts over 50 peaks above 5,000 meters, with several exceeding 6,000 meters, making it a haven for high-altitude climbing enthusiasts. The scenic beauty of the Cordillera Blanca, characterized by its glaciated peaks and deep valleys, combined with challenging routes, attracts climbers from around the globe. Base yourself out of the outdoor capital Huaraz.

The Cordillera Huayhuash, located to the south of the Cordillera Blanca, offers a more remote and less frequented climbing experience. This range is known for its dramatic peaks and pristine environment, providing a stark contrast to the more popular Cordillera Blanca. Yerupajá, the second highest peak in Peru, and Siula Grande, famous for the survival story "Touching the Void," are among the notable 6,000-meter summits in this region. The Cordillera Huayhuash trek is also considered one of the most beautiful and challenging in the world, offering a unique combination of high-altitude climbing and trekking through some of the most stunning landscapes in Peru.

Around Cusco you have a few other 6s, with Ausangate and Salcantay standing out.

Lastly, in the south, you have the town of Arequipa. It has Chachani on its doorstep, and several other comparable - easy - 6s within some hours. Around here the climbs are of no technical difficulty - but great first 6000 meter ascents or used for acclimitisation before going north to Huaraz.

Climbs in Peru

There are 21 Climbs in Peru. Get an idea of what separates them here:

Most popular

The classic climbs in Peru:

Alpamayo
 AD - D
$1,750
 5,947 m
Chopicalqui
 AD
$1,080
 6,345 m
Chachani
 F
$950
 6,075 m
Huascaran Sur
 PD - AD
$1,700
 6,768 m
Huascaran Norte
 PD - AD
$2,950
 6,655 m

Lesser known

Escape the crowds and get of the beaten path in Peru with these climbs:

Chumpe
 PD
$1,950
 6,106 m

Most difficult

If you want to challenge yourself, consider these climbs in Peru:

Jirishanca
 D - TD
$10,000
 6,094 m
Ranrapalca
 D
$3,300
 6,162 m
Santa Cruz
 TD
$750
 6,259 m

Other climbs in Peru:

Artesonraju
 AD - D
$3,000
 6,025 m
Quitaraju
 AD - D
$2,650
 6,036 m
Tocllaraju
 AD
$1,500
 6,034 m
Ampato
 F
$950
 6,288 m
Ausangate
 AD
$3,250
 6,372 m
Salcantay
 AD
$6,500
 6,271 m
Copa
 PD - AD
$1,850
 6,188 m
Coropuna
 F
$1,950
 6,425 m
Solimana
$3,000
 6,093 m
Misti
$950
 5,825 m
Yayamari
 PD
$2,500
 6,049 m
Huandoy
$15,000
 6,360 m

Climb difficulties in Peru

How many of each difficulty grade can you find a route for.

French AlpineDifficulty descriptionQuantity
FEasy. Suitable for beginners, minimal technical skills required.3
PDNot very difficult. Some technical skills required, with moderate exposure.5
ADFairly difficult. Requires good technical skills and experience, with significant exposure.10
DDifficult. Requires advanced technical skills and experience, with high exposure.5
TDVery difficult. Requires very advanced technical skills, experience, and serious commitment.2
EDExtremely difficult. Requires exceptional technical skills, experience, and high commitment.0

Guide costs for climbing in Peru

There are 32 guides listed for Peru. Trips range from $750 to $15,000, and average $2,888 per expedition.

Pictures from climbing in Peru