Climbing Alpamayo

Height: 5,947 m
Duration: 5 days
Country:
Peru flagPeru

Alpamayo, nestled in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, stands as a testament to the allure of high-altitude climbing. At an elevation of 5,947 meters (19,511 feet), this striking peak is renowned for its near-perfect pyramid shape, often described as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The south-west face, in particular, offers a classic climbing route with its steep ice flutes that test even seasoned climbers. This is a mountain where technical skill is paramount, and every stride demands respect for both the terrain and the rapidly changing weather conditions.

The climb itself is no walk in the park. Expect a mix of snow, ice, and rock, with the most popular route being the Ferrari Route on the southwest face. This ascent requires proficiency in ice climbing, as you'll be navigating pitches of 50-60 degrees with some sections approaching 70 degrees. The conditions can vary, but generally, the mountain is most accessible between June and August when the weather is relatively stable. Crevasse navigation is crucial, and the potential for avalanches adds another layer of complexity, making Alpamayo a serious undertaking for those looking to push their limits.

Alpamayo is not just about the climb; it’s about the experience of being amidst the stunning vistas of the Andes, surrounded by the raw beauty of untouched nature. The logistical aspect is straightforward, with twelve guides offering expeditions, ensuring that climbers can focus on the challenge ahead. This mountain demands not only technical expertise but also a deep respect for its unpredictable nature—traits any competent mountaineer will appreciate and embrace.

Climbing Alpamayo

Prepare for an adventure climbing Alpamayo. This overview provides essential details on routes, difficulty, costs, and the best times to go, helping you plan a successful expedition.

Route

  • 3,047 m gain over 5 days
  • Starting and ending in Cashapampa
  • approach: walk in

Walk in

  • +1,450 m over a 20 km approach
  • 2 days in
  • 1 days out

Climb

  • +1,597 m over 2 - 3 days.
  • 2 high camps. Base camp and high camp are typically used, and sometimes an intermediate camp for those less acclimatised.

Difficulty

  • AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
  • D: Hard (alpine grade 4)

When to go

  • May to August

Pictures from climbing Alpamayo

These are pictures taken while climbing Alpamayo. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Alpamayo, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.

Alpamayo mountain guides

Guide links

These guides offer organised climbs for Alpamayo. Compare each trip - pricing, reviews, and key details to help you choose the right guide. To explore more options / routes, check out our full Guides Directory.
We've carefully selected these independent guides based on their expertise with Alpamayo. Compare their offerings, from group sizes and equipment inclusion to trip duration and support services. Each guide brings their own unique approach, so you can find the perfect match for your adventure. Click through to see full details and connect directly with any guide that interests you.

Alpamayo History

Climbing history of Alpamayo

The history of Alpamayo, a stunning peak in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, is a fascinating tale of exploration and ambition. The mountain's sheer beauty captured the attention of climbers early on, but it wasn't until the mid-20th century that serious attempts to reach its summit were made.

The first recorded attempt on Alpamayo was in 1948 by a German expedition led by Günther Hauser. This team aimed to reach the summit via the northern ridge but was ultimately unsuccessful. It wasn't until 1957 that an expedition led by a Franco-Belgian team successfully stood atop the mountain, but they ascended via the North Ridge, not the now-famous southwest face.

The most iconic route, the Ferrari Route on the southwest face, was first climbed in 1975 by an Italian team led by Casimiro Ferrari. This route has since become the most popular and is renowned for its technical challenges and stunning beauty.

The area surrounding Alpamayo is home to the indigenous Quechua people, who have lived in harmony with this dramatic landscape for centuries. Their rich cultural heritage and traditional way of life add a unique dimension to the region's history.

Alpamayo Itinerary

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp, camping along the way (two days up, one down). It's a big walk up to high camp, which is shared with Quitaraju.

base-camp
Base Camp

Located in the Arhuaycocha Valley, Base Camp serves as the main staging area for the ascent. It is the starting point for acclimatization and preparation.
4,350 m

high-camp
High Camp

High Camp is situated on the glacier and serves as the final staging area before the summit push. Climbers navigate through snow and ice to reach this camp.
5,300 m

summit
Summit

The summit of Alpamayo, reached by climbing the steep and technical southwest face. This section involves advanced ice climbing techniques.
5,947 m

Alpamayo route

Explore the 3D route map for a realistic view of the ascent to Alpamayo. This interactive map provides a close-up look at key points like base camp and high-altitude camps along the way. For those planning their own expeditions, it offers a helpful overview of the mountain's terrain and surroundings.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp (camping along the way). From base camp you climb up to high camp (same as for Quitaraju).

Alpamayo weather

How is the weather on Alpamayo, and when is the best time to go.

The weather in the Cordillera Blanca, where Alpamayo is located, varies significantly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are typically May through August, which are the dry season months with the most stable weather conditions.

The best time to climb Alpamayo is in these months:

  • May
  • Jun
  • Jul
  • Aug
Decent weather in these months, but expect cloudy weather once or twice a week given the proximity to the Amazon.

Alpamayo Services

Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation

Accommodation

Camping on the walk in is possible anywhere. Then with 2-3 camps on the climb.

Guides

Plenty of guides ply this route.

Porters

Mules are available in the town but will go up to base camp only. If you want porters for high camp, arrange them in Cashapampa or even in Huaraz before leaving.

Alpamayo access - getting there

How to get to Alpamayo

Drive to Cashapampa, or take local transport changing at Caraz.

Alpamayo Videos

Get inspired by these incredible videos capturing the experience of climbing Alpamayo. From route highlights to summitsummit views, these clips showcase the mountain’s beauty and the challenges it presents. Have your own Alpamayo video? We'd love for you to share it with the community to inspire future climbers.

Alpamayo Summit view

What you can see from the summit of Alpamayo. Click and pan around the map to explore, and zoom in/out to see the names of neighbouring mountains.

Alpamayo questions

What to know about climbing Alpamayo

Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.

Alpamayo Links

useful websites, Groups and communities

Groups / links with more info on the Alpamayo route.

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