From the Argentinian Side
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 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
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 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
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 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
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</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
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 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.

Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

Climbed from Sajama town. Which is either a $90 taxi from La Paz, or $10 on public transport.

Once in Sajama you can walk to the base camp in 3-4 hours, or use one of many guide/services from the town - either transport only (to and from base camp), or including a guide.

Mount Sajama, the highest peak in Bolivia, reaches an impressive height of 6,542 meters. This extinct stratovolcano stands within the Sajama National Park, offering a challenging yet rewarding climb for seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is typically approached from the small village of Sajama, which provides a straightforward starting point. The climb itself is not technically demanding, but the high altitude and potential for extreme weather conditions should not be underestimated.

The route most commonly taken is the southwest ridge, offering a mix of snow, ice, and rock climbing. As you ascend, the stunning views of the Andes unfold, providing a remarkable backdrop to the climb. The snow conditions vary depending on the season, with the dry season (May to September) generally offering more stable conditions. It's crucial to be prepared for the cold and the potential for sudden weather changes. The combination of altitude, cold, and the length of the climb makes it a serious endeavor, requiring proper acclimatization and experience in high-altitude climbing.

Reaching the summit of Sajama is a test of endurance and skill, but the panoramic views from the top are a worthy reward. From the summit, you can see distant peaks and the vast altiplano below, an inspiring sight for any climber. It's advisable to thoroughly plan your climb, taking into account the logistics and weather patterns typical for this region. There are 11 guides offering expeditions up Sajama, providing various levels of support for those looking to tackle this Bolivian giant.

The starting point for the ascent of Sajama, located at the foot of the mountain. Climbers acclimatize and prepare here before heading up. A small stream provides water.

Base Camp

Located at a strategic point on the mountain, this camp serves as the final staging area before the summit push. There is a lot of snow/ice to make water from.

High Camp

The highest point in Bolivia, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Andes and surrounding areas. A very broad flat summit.

Summit

The climb of Sajama involves a straightforward route starting from the Base Camp at 4750m, with a single intermediate stop at High Camp at 5650m before reaching the Summit at 6542m.

The North west ridge is the typical route these days, with one of two base camps to use (depending on whether you drive or walk in) and one high camp.

Sajama

Mount Aconcagua stands as the tallest peak in the Andes and the highest mountain outside of Asia, reaching a formidable height of 6,962 meters. Located in Argentina, it's a coveted summit for many mountaineers seeking to challenge themselves on one of the world's Seven Summits. The climb itself doesn’t pose significant technical difficulties, making it appealing to those who have honed their high-altitude skills and are prepared for the physical demands and unpredictable weather conditions that accompany such an altitude.

The Normal Route is the most popular path up Aconcagua, offering a straightforward trek without the need for advanced technical climbing. However, don't let its non-technical nature mislead you; the mountain demands respect. The thin air at such elevations can be a formidable adversary, and the notorious winds, sometimes reaching hurricane force, can quickly change the dynamics of the ascent. Acclimatization is a crucial component of success on this mountain, and those who ignore this may find themselves turning back before reaching the summit.

For those seeking a more isolated and technical challenge, the Polish Glacier Route offers a steeper and more demanding climb. Here, you'll need to be adept with crampons and ice axes, navigating through sections where crevasses and seracs become more prevalent. Despite the challenges, reaching the summit of the tallest peak in Argentina is a reward in itself, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Andes. There are currently 33 guides that offer expeditions to this majestic mountain, ensuring that those who seek its summit have ample support options.

The starting point for Aconcagua climbers, Plaza de Mulas is a well-equipped base camp situated at 4350 meters above sea level. It serves as the launchpad for the ascent.

Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas)

Located at 5000 meters, Camp 1 (Canada) is the first acclimatization stop on the Normal Route. It offers some shelter and is a good place to adjust to higher altitudes.

Camp 1 (Canada)

Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is situated at 5500 meters. It provides essential acclimatization and is known for its spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

Camp 2 (Nido de Cóndores)

The final camp used for the summit push is set up at either Camp Colera (6,000m) or Camp Berlin (5,950m). Both at around 6000m. Berlin used to be typical, but now Colera is favoured. Colera is bigger and better equipped.

Camp 3 (Colera or Berlin)

The summit of Aconcagua stands at 6962 meters, making it the highest point in the Americas. Climbers experience extreme cold, low oxygen, and breathtaking vistas at this pinnacle of their journey.

Summit (Aconcagua's Highest Point)

Although it demands significant physical effort, ascending this peak is considered one of the more attainable challenges among the Seven Summits.

Climbing Aconcagua requires a mandatory climbing permit, the cost of which varies depending on the season.

This permit is mandatory for climbing Aconcagua and covers park entry and basic rescue services.

Aconcagua Climbing Permit

Plaza de Mulas

Confluenca camp

Horcones

Aconcagua

Take transport from Huaraz to Yuangay, from there its a walk up to base camp. 
Many trekkers come to this trailhead too, so arranging a shared taxi is also a good idea.

Chopicalqui is an impressive peak located in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes in Peru. Standing at an elevation of approximately 6,354 meters (20,846 feet), it offers a challenging ascent for those who seek to conquer its icy slopes. The climb is typically approached from the Llanganuco Valley, providing a route that is both demanding and rewarding. The ascent is characterized by steep snow and ice slopes, crevasses, and a dramatic summit ridge. It's a climb that requires solid technical skills, particularly in ice climbing and glacier navigation.

The route to the summit of Chopicalqui is not overly crowded, offering a more secluded experience compared to other peaks in the region. The mountain's conditions can be unpredictable, with sudden weather changes and the ever-present risk of avalanches. It's important to be well-prepared and equipped for the climb, as the high altitude and technical sections can test even seasoned mountaineers. The views from the summit, if the weather permits, reveal a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making the challenge well worth the effort.

For those interested in climbing Chopicalqui, it's essential to plan for acclimatization, given its height and the demands of the ascent. There are currently 13 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent mountain, providing options for those looking to tackle this adventure with expert support. The sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit is immense, and it's a testament to one's mountaineering skills and determination.

The starting point of the climb, offering a good area for acclimatization and preparation before the ascent begins. A one hour walk from the trail head. Good water.

A transitional camp set on a rocky moraine; serves as a key rest stop before tackling the glacier. Water is available 15 minutes away.

Moraine Camp

Located on the glacier, this camp is used for acclimatization and staging for the summit push. The terrain becomes significantly icier and requires the use of crampons and ice axes.

High camp

The summit of Chopicalqui offers panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca, including nearby peaks such as Huascaran and Pisco.

The ascent of Chopicalqui progresses through several camps, starting from Base Camp at 4350 meters up to the Summit at 6354 meters. Key stops include Moraine Camp for initial acclimatization, followed by High Camp for further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers must navigate glaciers and steep ice with appropriate gear.

From the trail head it's 45 minute walk to base camp. Useful for acclimatisation, but otherwise you can go straight to Moraine camp the first day,

Moraine camp

Chopicalqui

Drive to Cashapampa, or take local transport changing at Caraz.

Alpamayo, nestled in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, stands as a testament to the allure of high-altitude climbing. At an elevation of 5,947 meters (19,511 feet), this striking peak is renowned for its near-perfect pyramid shape, often described as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The south-west face, in particular, offers a classic climbing route with its steep ice flutes that test even seasoned climbers. This is a mountain where technical skill is paramount, and every stride demands respect for both the terrain and the rapidly changing weather conditions.

The climb itself is no walk in the park. Expect a mix of snow, ice, and rock, with the most popular route being the Ferrari Route on the southwest face. This ascent requires proficiency in ice climbing, as you'll be navigating pitches of 50-60 degrees with some sections approaching 70 degrees. The conditions can vary, but generally, the mountain is most accessible between June and August when the weather is relatively stable. Crevasse navigation is crucial, and the potential for avalanches adds another layer of complexity, making Alpamayo a serious undertaking for those looking to push their limits.

Alpamayo is not just about the climb; it’s about the experience of being amidst the stunning vistas of the Andes, surrounded by the raw beauty of untouched nature. The logistical aspect is straightforward, with twelve guides offering expeditions, ensuring that climbers can focus on the challenge ahead. This mountain demands not only technical expertise but also a deep respect for its unpredictable nature—traits any competent mountaineer will appreciate and embrace.

Located in the Arhuaycocha Valley, Base Camp serves as the main staging area for the ascent. It is the starting point for acclimatization and preparation.

High Camp is situated on the glacier and serves as the final staging area before the summit push. Climbers navigate through snow and ice to reach this camp.

The summit of Alpamayo, reached by climbing the steep and technical southwest face. This section involves advanced ice climbing techniques.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp, camping along the way (two days up, one down). It's a big walk up to high camp, which is shared with Quitaraju.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp (camping along the way). From base camp you climb up to high camp (same as for Quitaraju).

The weather in the Cordillera Blanca, where Alpamayo is located, varies significantly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are typically May through August, which are the dry season months with the most stable weather conditions.

	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks	5 / 5	9
TripAdvisor	5 / 5	8
Google	5 / 5	1

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Trips offered by Peru Adventures Travel

Ojos del Salado
$6,850

Sajama
$2,650

Aconcagua
$3,600

Chopicalqui
$950

Alpamayo
$1,750

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Trips offered by Peru Adventures Travel

Ojos del Salado$6,850

Sajama$2,650

Aconcagua$3,600