Climbing Chopicalqui
Peru
Chopicalqui is an impressive peak located in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes in Peru. Standing at an elevation of approximately 6,354 meters (20,846 feet), it offers a challenging ascent for those who seek to conquer its icy slopes. The climb is typically approached from the Llanganuco Valley, providing a route that is both demanding and rewarding. The ascent is characterized by steep snow and ice slopes, crevasses, and a dramatic summit ridge. It's a climb that requires solid technical skills, particularly in ice climbing and glacier navigation.
The route to the summit of Chopicalqui is not overly crowded, offering a more secluded experience compared to other peaks in the region. The mountain's conditions can be unpredictable, with sudden weather changes and the ever-present risk of avalanches. It's important to be well-prepared and equipped for the climb, as the high altitude and technical sections can test even seasoned mountaineers. The views from the summit, if the weather permits, reveal a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making the challenge well worth the effort.
For those interested in climbing Chopicalqui, it's essential to plan for acclimatization, given its height and the demands of the ascent. There are currently 13 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent mountain, providing options for those looking to tackle this adventure with expert support. The sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit is immense, and it's a testament to one's mountaineering skills and determination.
Difficulty
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
When to go
- June to August
These are pictures taken while climbing Chopicalqui. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Chopicalqui, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Chopicalqui History
Climbing history of Chopicalqui
The history of climbing Chopicalqui is marked by several notable attempts and successes. The first recorded ascent of Chopicalqui was accomplished in 1932 by a German-Austrian expedition led by Walter Brecht. This team managed to reach the summit via the southwest ridge, establishing a route that would become a classic path for future climbers.
In the decades following the first ascent, Chopicalqui attracted numerous climbing teams from around the world. The mountain's challenging terrain and stunning vistas made it a popular destination for mountaineers seeking to test their skills in the high Andes. Subsequent expeditions have explored various routes on the mountain, contributing to its reputation as a formidable yet rewarding climb.
The broader region of the Cordillera Blanca, where Chopicalqui is located, has been home to the Quechua people for centuries. The area's rich cultural heritage and deep connection with the mountains have shaped the way local communities interact with their environment. The Quechua have long regarded the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca with reverence, viewing them as sacred entities.
Base Camp
Moraine Camp
High camp
Summit
From the trail head it's 45 minute walk to base camp. Useful for acclimatisation, but otherwise you can go straight to Moraine camp the first day,
Chopicalqui access - getting there
How to get to Chopicalqui
Chopicalqui Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Chopicalqui route.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Chopicalqui climb.
