Quitaraju

Quitaraju is a striking 6,040-meter (19,816 feet) peak in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca range, nestled alongside its more famous neighbor, Alpamayo. While it may be less well-known, Quitaraju offers an equally rewarding and challenging ascent. The mountain is renowned for its steep ice and snow faces, particularly on the north ridge, which is the most popular route. Climbers are drawn to Quitaraju for its stunning, technical routes and for the sense of remoteness that comes with venturing beyond more crowded Andean peaks.

Reaching Quitaraju’s summit involves advanced alpine skills, including steep ice climbing on pitches up to 65 degrees. Most expeditions start from the base camp at Santa Cruz, ascending the glacier fields before reaching a high camp near the Col shared with Alpamayo. From here, climbers face sustained ice walls, crevasse crossings, and knife-edge ridges leading to the summit ridge.

The summit of Quitaraju provides panoramic views of the surrounding Cordillera Blanca, with unobstructed sights of peaks like Artesonraju and Huascarán. Climbers who tackle Quitaraju often have prior experience with technical ice and mixed routes, as the ascent is demanding both physically and mentally. For mountaineers seeking a high-altitude Andean challenge in a pristine and dramatic setting, Quitaraju is a compelling objective.