Drive to Cashapampa, or take local transport changing at Caraz.

Often hailed as the most beautiful mountain in the world, Alpamayo rises gracefully to 5,947 meters in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Its iconic, near-perfect pyramid shape and dramatic ice flutes make it a dream destination for climbers seeking technical challenges. Whether you're considering a climb on Alpamayo or planning an unforgettable Alpamayo expedition, this peak offers one of the most rewarding experiences in mountaineering.
A climb up Alpamayo is not for the faint of heart. Its steep, technical routes, such as the Ferrari or French Direct routes, require skilled use of ice tools and crampons, making it a sought-after objective for experienced mountaineers. Along the journey, climbers will pass through stunning landscapes, from lush valleys to high-altitude camps like Moraine Camp and High Camp, which provide essential rest and acclimatization. Combining skill and preparation is critical for a safe and successful Alpamayo climb.
For those seeking a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, an Alpamayo trek offers an incredible opportunity to witness the beauty of the Cordillera Blanca. While the summit may be reserved for experienced climbers, trekking routes like the Santa Cruz Trek allow hikers to marvel at the mountain's beauty from a distance. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a trekking enthusiast, exploring Alpamayo provides breathtaking views, unforgettable challenges, and a profound connection to Peru&rsquo;s majestic landscapes.

Located in the Arhuaycocha Valley, Base Camp serves as the main staging area for the ascent. It is the starting point for acclimatization and preparation.

Base Camp

High Camp is situated on the glacier and serves as the final staging area before the summit push. Climbers navigate through snow and ice to reach this camp.

High Camp

The summit of Alpamayo, reached by climbing the steep and technical southwest face. This section involves advanced ice climbing techniques.

Summit

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp, camping along the way (two days up, one down). It's a big walk up to high camp, which is shared with Quitaraju.

Walk in from Cashapampa to base camp (camping along the way). From base camp you climb up to high camp (same as for Quitaraju).

The weather in the Cordillera Blanca, where Alpamayo is located, varies significantly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are typically May through August, which are the dry season months with the most stable weather conditions.

Alpamayo

Take transport from Huaraz to Yuangay, from there its a walk up to base camp. 
Many trekkers come to this trailhead too, so arranging a shared taxi is also a good idea.

Chopicalqui, a hidden gem in the Peruvian Andes, beckons climbers with its elegant pyramid shape and a captivating ascent that weaves through pristine glacial landscapes. What sets this climb apart is the harmonious blend of technical challenges and stunning panoramic views, offering an enriching adventure for those drawn to the beauty of high-altitude peaks and the thrill of conquering less-explored summits.

The starting point of the climb, offering a good area for acclimatization and preparation before the ascent begins. A one hour walk from the trail head. Good water.

A transitional camp set on a rocky moraine; serves as a key rest stop before tackling the glacier. Water is available 15 minutes away.

Moraine Camp

Located on the glacier, this camp is used for acclimatization and staging for the summit push. The terrain becomes significantly icier and requires the use of crampons and ice axes.

High camp

The summit of Chopicalqui offers panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca, including nearby peaks such as Huascaran and Pisco.

The ascent of Chopicalqui progresses through several camps, starting from Base Camp at 4350 meters up to the Summit at 6354 meters. Key stops include Moraine Camp for initial acclimatization, followed by High Camp for further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers must navigate glaciers and steep ice with appropriate gear.

From the trail head it's 45 minute walk to base camp. Useful for acclimatisation, but otherwise you can go straight to Moraine camp the first day,

Moraine camp

Chopicalqui

Copa, a mesmerizing peak in the Andes, entices climbers with its serene ascent through remote valleys and rugged ridges, showcasing the untouched beauty of the Peruvian wilderness. What makes this climb truly special is the opportunity to summit a challenging peak while immersing oneself in the tranquility of the surrounding landscape, offering a unique and rewarding adventure for those seeking a harmonious balance between challenge and natural splendor.

Copa

<ul>
 <li>From Lima: 
 <ul>
 <li>By Bus: Long-distance bus services such as Cruz del Sur and Movil Tours offer trips from Lima to Huaraz, which take about 7 hours. This is the most common and economical option.</li>
 <li>By Flight: There are commercial flights from Lima to Huaraz airport (ATA), but these services are infrequent.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>From Huaraz to Musho:
 <ul>
 <li>By Taxi: A direct taxi from Huaraz to Musho takes about 1.5 hours. The cost can vary, but expect to pay around 200 Soles for the trip to Musho.</li>
 <li>By Collectivo: Take a collectivo (shared minibus) to Mancos, then a taxi from Mancos to Musho. Cheaper but more timely.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Huascarán Sur, the highest peak in Peru, offers challenging climbs with routes ranging from PD to AD difficulty. It's a must-climb for experienced mountaineers looking to tackle the iconic Cordillera Blanca. The climb is typically approached from Huaraz, with the best time of year being May to August. This peak provides a rewarding experience with its demanding routes and breathtaking views.

Base Camp at 4200m is the starting point for the climb, accessible via a mule track from Musho.

Refugio Don Bosco at 4650m offers food, beverages, and bunk beds, located 1.5 hours from Base Camp.

Refugio Don Bosco

Campo Uno at 5300m is located on the glacier and is typically reached in about 4 hours from Refugio Don Bosco.

Campo Uno

Campo Dos at 5850m is at the western end of Garganta, the key pass, and is usually reached in 4-5 hours from Campo Uno.

Campo Dos

The summit of Huascarán Sur at 6768m, the highest point in Peru, offering challenging climbs and spectacular views.

Huascarán Sur Summit

This climb from Base Camp to the summit of Huascarán Sur skips Moraine camp in favour of the regue. Taking 5 days to complete the ascent and descent assuming a summit day descent to camp 2. For some returning all the way down - and saving a day - is fine.

To climb Huascarán Sur, you need a park entry ticket and either a certified guide or a climbing permit. These can be obtained in Huaraz.

Required for entry into the national park.

Parque Nacional Huascarán Entry Ticket

Required if not climbing with a certified guide, proving experience and insurance.

Climbing Permit

Camp 1

Camp 2

Huascarán Sur experiences diverse weather conditions throughout the year. The best time to climb Huascarán Sur is typically from May to September, which coincides with the dry season, offering more stable and favorable weather conditions for climbing. The wet season from November to April brings higher rainfall and less predictable weather, making climbs more challenging.

Huascaran Sur

Tocllaraju offers a balanced mix of technical climbing and high-altitude experience in the Peruvian Andes. Its diverse routes and accessible location make it an excellent choice for climbers looking to transition into more challenging 6,000-meter peaks.

Tocllaraju

Quitaraju is a striking 6,040-meter (19,816 feet) peak in Peru&rsquo;s Cordillera Blanca range, nestled alongside its more famous neighbor, Alpamayo. While it may be less well-known, Quitaraju offers an equally rewarding and challenging ascent. The mountain is renowned for its steep ice and snow faces, particularly on the north ridge, which is the most popular route. Climbers are drawn to Quitaraju for its stunning, technical routes and for the sense of remoteness that comes with venturing beyond more crowded Andean peaks.
Reaching Quitaraju&rsquo;s summit involves advanced alpine skills, including steep ice climbing on pitches up to 65 degrees. Most expeditions start from the base camp at Santa Cruz, ascending the glacier fields before reaching a high camp near the Col shared with Alpamayo. From here, climbers face sustained ice walls, crevasse crossings, and knife-edge ridges leading to the summit ridge.
The summit of Quitaraju provides panoramic views of the surrounding Cordillera Blanca, with unobstructed sights of peaks like Artesonraju and Huascar&aacute;n. Climbers who tackle Quitaraju often have prior experience with technical ice and mixed routes, as the ascent is demanding both physically and mentally. For mountaineers seeking a high-altitude Andean challenge in a pristine and dramatic setting, Quitaraju is a compelling objective.

Quitaraju

Climbed from Sajama town. Which is either a $90 taxi from La Paz, or $10 on public transport.

Once in Sajama you can walk to the base camp in 3-4 hours, or use one of many guide/services from the town - either transport only (to and from base camp), or including a guide.

Sajama, <a href="../../../climbing/south-america/bolivia">Bolivias</a> biggest peak, rising out of the desert is a great and unique peak to climb: Not easy but not technically difficult. A great climb for amateur mountaineers. It rises out from Sajama town, where there are three other - easy - 6k peaks on it's doorstep - great for acclimitising. Famous for it's wind, but with a high camp to break up the climb to 6500m.&nbsp;

The starting point for the ascent of Sajama, located at the foot of the mountain. Climbers acclimatize and prepare here before heading up. A small stream provides water.

Located at a strategic point on the mountain, this camp serves as the final staging area before the summit push. There is a lot of snow/ice to make water from.

The highest point in Bolivia, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Andes and surrounding areas. A very broad flat summit.

The climb of Sajama involves a straightforward route starting from the Base Camp at 4750m, with a single intermediate stop at High Camp at 5650m before reaching the Summit at 6542m.

The North west ridge is the typical route these days, with one of two base camps to use (depending on whether you drive or walk in) and one high camp.

Sajama

Towering at 6,962 meters, Mount Aconcagua is the highest mountain in South America and a dream destination for climbers worldwide. Known as the "Stone Sentinel," it offers an extraordinary mix of challenges and breathtaking scenery for those interested in climbing Aconcagua. The experience combines high-altitude adventure with the stunning landscapes of the Andes, making a hiking Aconcagua journey unforgettable.
Planning a climbing Aconcagua expedition requires preparation and careful consideration of the route, conditions, and support. Whether you&rsquo;re tackling the Normal Route or the more technical Polish Glacier Traverse, climbers pass through iconic Aconcagua camps, such as Plaza de Mulas and Nido de C&oacute;ndores. These camps provide essential rest and acclimatization, crucial for a safe ascent. A well-organized Aconcagua trek can balance physical endurance with moments of awe, as the Andes unfold before you.
For those considering Aconcagua trekking, understanding the logistics, routes, and climbing Aconcagua cost is vital for a successful trip. The mountain draws adventurers seeking not only to stand on its summit but also to immerse themselves in the culture and natural beauty of the region. Whether you&rsquo;re aiming for an independent hike or a guided Aconcagua expedition, the journey promises to test your limits while offering the reward of unparalleled views and personal achievement.

The starting point for Aconcagua climbers, Plaza de Mulas is a well-equipped base camp situated at 4350 meters above sea level. It serves as the launchpad for the ascent.

Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas)

Located at 5000 meters, Camp 1 (Canada) is the first acclimatization stop on the Normal Route. It offers some shelter and is a good place to adjust to higher altitudes.

Camp 1 (Canada)

Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is situated at 5500 meters. It provides essential acclimatization and is known for its spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

Camp 2 (Nido de Cóndores)

The final camp used for the summit push is set up at either Camp Colera (6,000m) or Camp Berlin (5,950m). Both at around 6000m. Berlin used to be typical, but now Colera is favoured. Colera is bigger and better equipped.

Camp 3 (Colera or Berlin)

The summit of Aconcagua stands at 6962 meters, making it the highest point in the Americas. Climbers experience extreme cold, low oxygen, and breathtaking vistas at this pinnacle of their journey.

Summit (Aconcagua's Highest Point)

Although it demands significant physical effort, ascending this peak is considered one of the more attainable challenges among the Seven Summits.

Climbing Aconcagua requires a mandatory climbing permit, the cost of which varies depending on the season.

This permit is mandatory for climbing Aconcagua and covers park entry and basic rescue services.

Aconcagua Climbing Permit

Plaza de Mulas

Confluenca camp

Horcones

Aconcagua

From the Argentinian Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
 </li>
</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

Climbing Ojos del Salado, the world's highest volcano, offers a thrilling high-altitude adventure with desolate beauty and challenging conditions. The Chilean side provides easier access with basic refugios, while the Argentinian side demands more self-sufficiency. The final summit push involves loose, rotten rock and strong winds, testing your endurance.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

Climbing Cotopaxi offers a breathtaking journey up one of the world's highest active volcanoes, where the thrill of ascending through diverse ecosystems culminates in awe-inspiring views from the summit. Its unique blend of challenging terrain and the surreal, moon-like landscape near the top provides an unforgettable adventure for those seeking to embrace nature's majesty.

Cotopaxi 

Chimborazo, Ecuador's crown jewel, beckons climbers with its lofty stature as the highest peak in the country and the closest point to the sun on Earth. Ascending this majestic volcano not only promises the thrill of conquering a challenging summit but also offers the unique distinction of standing on the planet's farthest point from its center, making it an extraordinary and humbling adventure.

No permits are needed but hiring a guide is mandatory.

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