Climbing Huascaran Sur
Peru
The Huascarán Sur is the tallest peak in Peru, standing at an imposing 6,768 meters (22,205 feet). Located in the heart of the Huascarán National Park within the Cordillera Blanca range, this mountain is a magnet for mountaineers seeking a formidable challenge. The ascent of Huascarán Sur is no trivial pursuit; it demands not only technical skills but also a high degree of physical fitness and acclimatization to cope with its high-altitude conditions. The climb involves negotiating steep ice and snow slopes, making it essential to be adept with ice axes and crampons. The mountain's weather can be unpredictable, so being prepared for sudden changes is crucial.
The standard route to the summit of Huascarán Sur typically starts from the village of Musho, leading climbers through the picturesque Llanganuco Valley. From there, the path ascends to the Garganta, the col between the north and south peaks, which serves as a high camp. This section is characterized by crevasse-riddled glaciers and occasional seracs, adding a layer of complexity to the climb. The final push to the summit is a test of endurance and technical skill, requiring precise navigation through the upper glacier and careful management of the altitude. The reward, however, is the breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding Andean peaks, a sight that few other summits in the world can match.
Climbing Huascarán Sur is not just about reaching the summit; it's about engaging with the mountain’s demanding environment. The thin air at high altitudes coupled with the technical challenges make it a climb that is as mentally taxing as it is physically. Weather windows are short, and the conditions can vary greatly, so timing is critical. Among the seasoned mountaineers, Huascarán Sur is considered a rite of passage in the Andes. For those interested, there are 4 guides offering expeditions up this remarkable peak.
Table of contents
Route
- 3,768 m gain over 7 days
- Starting and ending in Musho
- approach: walk in, drive
Walk in
- +1,200 m over a 15 km approach
- 1 - 2 days in
- 1 days out
Climb
- +2,568 m over 4 days.
- 3 high camps. Most use camp 1 and 2, but some skip 1 if already acclimatised. Moreno camp is optionally used, and the refuge.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
When to go
- June to August
Permits
- 2 permits are needed
- costing around $18 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
- Not required, but registering is.
These are pictures taken while climbing Huascaran Sur. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Huascaran Sur, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Huascaran Sur History
Climbing history of Huascaran Sur
The history of Huascarán Sur is rich with mountaineering endeavors and cultural significance. Located in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, the area has long been inhabited by indigenous Quechua-speaking communities who have thrived in the high-altitude environment for centuries. The mountain itself holds spiritual significance for these communities, often seen as a powerful deity.
Early summit attempts on Huascarán Sur date back to the early 20th century. The first recorded attempt was made in 1908 by a team led by Annie Smith Peck, an American mountaineer known for her pioneering spirit. Although unsuccessful due to severe weather conditions, her attempt brought significant attention to the mountain.
The first successful ascent of Huascarán Sur was accomplished on July 20, 1932, by a German-Austrian expedition led by Philipp Borchers. This ascent marked a milestone in Andean mountaineering, showcasing the technical challenges posed by the peak's icy slopes and high elevation. Since then, Huascarán Sur has become a sought-after summit for climbers worldwide, contributing to the rich tapestry of mountaineering history in the Andes.
Base Camp
Refugio Don Bosco
Campo Uno
Campo Dos
Huascarán Sur Summit
Huascaran Sur weather
How is the weather on Huascaran Sur, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Huascaran Sur is in these months:
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
Huascaran Sur Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Accommodation options include camping at designated campsites and staying at Refugio Don Bosco, which offers bunk beds and basic facilities. There's water at camp morain and lots of other possible spots to camp on that section.Food
Food is available at Refugio Don Bosco, where climbers can purchase local meals and beverages.Guides
Many guides are available for this route. They typically cost around $130 per day, plus expenses.Porters
Porters can be hired to carry gear and supplies. They typically cost $10 per day for arrieros (mule drivers) and $5 per day for burros (mules).Gear rental
Gear rental is available in Huaraz.Transport
Public collectivos are available, or you can easily arrange private transport in Huaraz.ATMs
The nearest ATMs are in Huaraz.Huascaran Sur permits
What permits are needed for climbing Huascaran Sur
1. Parque Nacional Huascarán Entry Ticket
- $18 (~65 in the local currency)
- Required for entry into the national park.
- Can be purchased in Huaraz.
2. Climbing Permit
- $0
- Required if not climbing with a certified guide, proving experience and insurance.
- Obtainable from the National Park office in Huaraz.
Huascaran Sur access - getting there
How to get to Huascaran Sur
- From Lima:
- By Bus: Long-distance bus services such as Cruz del Sur and Movil Tours offer trips from Lima to Huaraz, which take about 7 hours. This is the most common and economical option.
- By Flight: There are commercial flights from Lima to Huaraz airport (ATA), but these services are infrequent.
- From Huaraz to Musho:
- By Taxi: A direct taxi from Huaraz to Musho takes about 1.5 hours. The cost can vary, but expect to pay around 200 Soles for the trip to Musho.
- By Collectivo: Take a collectivo (shared minibus) to Mancos, then a taxi from Mancos to Musho. Cheaper but more timely.
Huascaran Sur questions
What to know about climbing Huascaran Sur
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
Huascaran Sur Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Huascaran Sur route.
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