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Huascaran Sur
Huascarán Sur, the highest peak in Peru, offers challenging climbs with routes ranging from PD to AD difficulty. It's a must-climb for experienced mountaineers looking to tackle the iconic Cordillera Blanca. The climb is typically approached from Huaraz, with the best time of year being May to August. This peak provides a rewarding experience with its demanding routes and breathtaking views.
Route
- 3,768 m gain over 7 days
- Starting and ending in Musho
- approach: walk in, drive
Walk in
- +1,200 m over a 15 km approach
- 1 - 2 days in
- 1 days out
Climb
- +2,568 m over 4 days.
- 3 high camps. Most use camp 1 and 2, but some skip 1 if already acclimatised. Moreno camp is optionally used, and the refuge.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
When to go
- June to August
Permits
- 2 permits are needed
- costing around $18 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
- Not required, but registering is.
Profiled guides
| Guide | Info | Cost |
|---|---|---|
 Grupo Alpamayo Tours | more info | from $3,250 |
 Peruvian Mountains Adventures & Expeditions | more info | from $2,850 |
| Andean Raju Expeditions | more info | from $1,700 |
This climb from Base Camp to the summit of Huascarán Sur skips Moraine camp in favour of the regue. Taking 5 days to complete the ascent and descent assuming a summit day descent to camp 2. For some returning all the way down - and saving a day - is fine.
Base Camp
Base Camp at 4200m is the starting point for the climb, accessible via a mule track from Musho.
4,200 m
Refugio Don Bosco
Refugio Don Bosco at 4650m offers food, beverages, and bunk beds, located 1.5 hours from Base Camp.
4,650 m
Campo Uno
Campo Uno at 5300m is located on the glacier and is typically reached in about 4 hours from Refugio Don Bosco.
5,300 m
Campo Dos
Campo Dos at 5850m is at the western end of Garganta, the key pass, and is usually reached in 4-5 hours from Campo Uno.
5,850 m
Huascarán Sur Summit
The summit of Huascarán Sur at 6768m, the highest point in Peru, offering challenging climbs and spectacular views.
6,768 m
Huascaran Sur weather
How is the weather on Huascaran Sur, and when is the best time to go.
Huascarán Sur experiences diverse weather conditions throughout the year. The best time to climb Huascarán Sur is typically from May to September, which coincides with the dry season, offering more stable and favorable weather conditions for climbing. The wet season from November to April brings higher rainfall and less predictable weather, making climbs more challenging.
The best time to climb Huascaran Sur is in these months:
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
June to August are best, with May/September also possible
Huascaran Sur Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Accommodation options include camping at designated campsites and staying at Refugio Don Bosco, which offers bunk beds and basic facilities. There's water at camp morain and lots of other possible spots to camp on that section.Food
Food is available at Refugio Don Bosco, where climbers can purchase local meals and beverages.Guides
Many guides are available for this route. They typically cost around $130 per day, plus expenses.Porters
Porters can be hired to carry gear and supplies. They typically cost $10 per day for arrieros (mule drivers) and $5 per day for burros (mules).Gear rental
Gear rental is available in Huaraz.Transport
Public collectivos are available, or you can easily arrange private transport in Huaraz.ATMs
The nearest ATMs are in Huaraz.Huascaran Sur permits
What permits are needed for climbing Huascaran Sur
To climb Huascarán Sur, you need a park entry ticket and either a certified guide or a climbing permit. These can be obtained in Huaraz.
1. Parque Nacional Huascarán Entry Ticket
- $18 (~65 in the local currency)
- Required for entry into the national park.
- Can be purchased in Huaraz.
2. Climbing Permit
- $0
- Required if not climbing with a certified guide, proving experience and insurance.
- Obtainable from the National Park office in Huaraz.
Huascaran Sur access - getting there
How to get to Huascaran Sur
- From Lima:
- By Bus: Long-distance bus services such as Cruz del Sur and Movil Tours offer trips from Lima to Huaraz, which take about 7 hours. This is the most common and economical option.
- By Flight: There are commercial flights from Lima to Huaraz airport (ATA), but these services are infrequent.
- From Huaraz to Musho:
- By Taxi: A direct taxi from Huaraz to Musho takes about 1.5 hours. The cost can vary, but expect to pay around 200 Soles for the trip to Musho.
- By Collectivo: Take a collectivo (shared minibus) to Mancos, then a taxi from Mancos to Musho. Cheaper but more timely.
Huascaran Sur questions
What to know about climbing Huascaran Sur
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
Huascaran Sur Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Huascaran Sur route.
These treks are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Huascaran Sur trek and provide beautiful landscapes, cultural experiences, and a sense of adventure.
