Ojos del Salado
Argentina
Chile
The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.
Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.
Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.
Table of contents
Difficulty
- F: Easy (alpine grade 1)
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
When to go
- December to February
Permits
- 3 permits are needed
- costing around $180 total
These are pictures taken while climbing Ojos del Salado. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Ojos del Salado, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Ojos del Salado History
Climbing history of Ojos del Salado
The history of Ojos del Salado is as majestic as its towering peaks. The first successful ascent of this formidable volcano was achieved in 1937 by a Polish expedition led by Jan Szczepański and Justyn Wojsznis. Their pioneering spirit paved the way for future mountaineers to explore the highest volcano in the world.
The region surrounding Ojos del Salado is steeped in cultural heritage. Historically, it has been inhabited by indigenous peoples, notably the Atacameños, who have adapted to the extreme conditions of the Atacama Desert for centuries. This connection between the land and its people adds a profound layer of significance to the mountain.
Despite its remote location, Ojos del Salado has become a sought-after destination for climbers and adventurers looking to experience its unique challenges and breathtaking vistas. The blend of natural beauty and historical significance makes it a compelling subject for those who seek to understand the allure of high-altitude exploration.
Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)
Tejos Refuge
Ojos del Salado Summit
Ojos del Salado permits
What permits are needed for climbing Ojos del Salado
1. Climbing Permit (Chile)
- $180 (~140,000 in the local currency)
- Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.
- Obtainable in advance from DIFROL in Copiapó or online https://www.difrol.cl/en/procedures/expeditions/
2. Border Permit (Chile)
- $0
- Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.
- Pick up in Copiapó.
3. Registration (Argentina)
- $0
- Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.
- Register at the police station in Fiambalá.
Ojos del Salado access - getting there
How to get to Ojos del Salado
- By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
- By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
- 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
- By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
- Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
- 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
Ojos del Salado questions
What to know about climbing Ojos del Salado
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
Ojos del Salado Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Ojos del Salado route.
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