Tupungato, a formidable peak straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, stands tall at 6,570 meters, offering a challenging climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is not for the faint-hearted, with routes presenting a mix of steep slopes and rugged terrain. The mountain's relative remoteness adds an extra layer of difficulty, requiring climbers to be self-sufficient and well-prepared for a multi-day expedition. Weather can be unpredictable, with high winds and sudden temperature drops, so readiness for harsh conditions is essential.

Most climbers approach Tupungato from the Chilean side, utilizing the Valle de los Yaretas as the traditional base camp area. The approach involves navigating through valleys and high-altitude plateaus before tackling the more technical sections. The upper reaches of the mountain demand proficiency in glacier travel and crevasse navigation, with the final push to the summit often requiring crampons and ice axes. Those who reach the top are rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the Andes, a testament to the mountain's grandeur and the climber's perseverance.

Given the technical and logistical challenges of climbing Tupungato, it's no surprise that it remains less frequented compared to other Andean giants. The mountain's allure lies in its untouched nature and the solitude it offers, a rare opportunity for introspection amidst the vast wilderness. For those interested in organized expeditions, there are currently 9 guides offering climbs up this majestic peak, providing options for those who prefer a structured approach to their ascent.

Tupungato

Located on the border between Argentina and Chile, Marmolejo stands as a remarkable challenge for seasoned mountaineers. At an elevation of approximately 6,108 meters (20,039 feet), it is the southernmost six-thousand-meter peak in the Andes. The climb is typically approached from the Chilean side, with ascents often starting from the Maipo Valley. The route takes you through a variety of terrain, from rocky paths to snow-covered slopes, offering a diverse and engaging climb. The mountain's isolation adds to its allure, providing a sense of solitude rare in more frequented ranges.

The ascent of Marmolejo is non-technical but demands a high level of physical fitness and acclimatization due to its altitude. The standard route is considered moderate in terms of difficulty, but the weather conditions can be unpredictable and harsh. Wind and cold temperatures can test your endurance, so be prepared for rapidly changing conditions. The climb itself is a rewarding endeavor for those looking for a less commercialized experience, with stunning views of the surrounding Andes and a sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit.

Access to Marmolejo is relatively straightforward, but logistics should not be underestimated. You'll need to plan for permits and possibly mule support to carry gear to the base camp. While there are no technical climbing sections, the mountain's altitude and potential for severe weather require respect and preparation. For those interested, there are 4 guides offering expeditions to Marmolejo, providing options for those who prefer the security of a guided climb.

Marmolejo

When you set your sights on Nevado del Plomo in Argentina, you're looking at a peak that stands at an impressive 6,070 meters. Nestled in the southern Andes, this mountain offers a climb that's both challenging and rewarding. The ascent is typically approached from the west, with routes that vary in difficulty, allowing for a range of experiences depending on your chosen path. The terrain is characterized by snow and ice, demanding proficiency in technical mountaineering skills, particularly when you approach the summit.

As you make your way up Nevado del Plomo, you'll encounter mixed conditions and need to be prepared for sudden weather shifts. The high altitude means acclimatization is crucial, so plan your ascent with enough time to adjust. The climbing season typically runs from December to March, when conditions are most favorable. You'll find the mountain less crowded compared to other popular peaks in the region, offering a more solitary and serene environment.

Approaching the summit, the views open up to stunning vistas of the Andes and nearby peaks. The sense of isolation and the sheer beauty of the landscape make the climb a memorable experience. There are about 10 guides available who offer expeditions to Nevado del Plomo, providing logistics support and local expertise if needed. Tailor your climb according to your experience and preferences, and you'll find this mountain a worthy addition to your climbing repertoire.

Nevado del Plomo

Parinacota, a majestic volcanic mountain straddling the border between Chile and Bolivia, stands at an imposing 6,348 meters above sea level. This stratovolcano is part of the Andes' Cordillera Occidental and offers a challenging yet rewarding climb for seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is characterized by its high altitude, requiring climbers to be well-acclimatized. The standard route is via the southwest approach, which is often attempted in a two-day expedition. The climb itself is not technically demanding, but the conditions can be harsh, with strong winds and cold temperatures being common. Therefore, it's crucial to be prepared for the elements and to have the necessary experience in high-altitude climbing.

The climb up Parinacota is a true test of endurance and determination. While the route is largely non-technical, the altitude poses the greatest challenge, demanding a slow and steady pace. The ascent typically begins from the base camp at around 5,200 meters, where climbers spend a night to acclimate before pushing for the summit. The terrain consists of scree, snow, and occasionally ice, making sturdy boots and crampons essential. Weather conditions can change rapidly, so monitoring forecasts and being ready for sudden shifts is vital. The panoramic views from the summit encompass the expansive Altiplano and the neighboring Sajama National Park, rewarding climbers with breathtaking vistas.

For those planning to tackle Parinacota, it's advisable to consider the logistics involved in reaching the remote location, as well as the need for appropriate permits to climb. While the mountain is relatively accessible, the journey to the base often requires a rugged drive through challenging terrain. When it comes to organized climbs, there are 6 guides who offer expeditions to Parinacota. While experienced mountaineers can certainly undertake the climb independently, utilizing the expertise of local guides can enhance safety and ensure a more culturally immersive experience.

If climbing from Bolivia, most will take a ride straight from Sajama village to the trail head / refuge and start their ascent. Alternatively walk (or drive) in and stay the night there first for more acclimatisation. There is also a space to camp at ~4850m (but ultimately you can camp anywhere - this spot is just used as it's about as far as some vehicles want to go).

Refuge

Parinacota

From the Argentinian Side
<ul>
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 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
 </li>
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 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
 </li>
</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.

Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

Easier to get to from Chile, from Argentina it's a long drive from Salta.

Llullaillaco stands as a testament to nature's rugged beauty at the border of Argentina and Chile. Towering at around 6,739 meters, it ranks as the third-highest active volcano in the world. The climb to its summit is a challenging yet rewarding experience, offering a unique blend of high-altitude and desert conditions. The approach is typically made from the Chilean side, with the arid Atacama Desert as your backdrop. The terrain is a mix of scree and volcanic rock, which can make for a demanding ascent requiring careful navigation and acclimatization. The remote location and harsh environment demand thorough preparation and respect for the mountain's austere beauty.

The ascent of Llullaillaco is not for the faint of heart. Given its elevation, climbers must be vigilant about altitude sickness and prepare for rapidly changing weather conditions. The route itself is not technically difficult, but the challenges lie in the extreme altitude and the barren landscape that offers little in terms of natural shelter. The final push to the summit is an exhilarating endeavor, requiring a pre-dawn start to take advantage of the stable morning weather. Those who reach the top are rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Andean peaks and the expansive salt flats below. It's a humbling experience that few mountains can match.

For those considering this formidable climb, it's important to note that there are currently 7 guides offering expeditions to Llullaillaco. While it's certainly possible to ascend without a guide, having local expertise can enhance the experience and ensure a safer journey. Regardless of your choice, Llullaillaco promises an unforgettable adventure for those willing to tackle its formidable slopes.

When climbing from Chile a border zone permit from DIFROL is needed, but nobody will check this. 

The Chilean side has a basic refuge, but as the drive-able track goes higher this is unlikely necessary.

Llullaillaco

Mount Aconcagua stands as the tallest peak in the Andes and the highest mountain outside of Asia, reaching a formidable height of 6,962 meters. Located in Argentina, it's a coveted summit for many mountaineers seeking to challenge themselves on one of the world's Seven Summits. The climb itself doesn’t pose significant technical difficulties, making it appealing to those who have honed their high-altitude skills and are prepared for the physical demands and unpredictable weather conditions that accompany such an altitude.

The Normal Route is the most popular path up Aconcagua, offering a straightforward trek without the need for advanced technical climbing. However, don't let its non-technical nature mislead you; the mountain demands respect. The thin air at such elevations can be a formidable adversary, and the notorious winds, sometimes reaching hurricane force, can quickly change the dynamics of the ascent. Acclimatization is a crucial component of success on this mountain, and those who ignore this may find themselves turning back before reaching the summit.

For those seeking a more isolated and technical challenge, the Polish Glacier Route offers a steeper and more demanding climb. Here, you'll need to be adept with crampons and ice axes, navigating through sections where crevasses and seracs become more prevalent. Despite the challenges, reaching the summit of the tallest peak in Argentina is a reward in itself, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Andes. There are currently 33 guides that offer expeditions to this majestic mountain, ensuring that those who seek its summit have ample support options.

The starting point for Aconcagua climbers, Plaza de Mulas is a well-equipped base camp situated at 4350 meters above sea level. It serves as the launchpad for the ascent.

Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas)

Located at 5000 meters, Camp 1 (Canada) is the first acclimatization stop on the Normal Route. It offers some shelter and is a good place to adjust to higher altitudes.

Camp 1 (Canada)

Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is situated at 5500 meters. It provides essential acclimatization and is known for its spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

Camp 2 (Nido de Cóndores)

The final camp used for the summit push is set up at either Camp Colera (6,000m) or Camp Berlin (5,950m). Both at around 6000m. Berlin used to be typical, but now Colera is favoured. Colera is bigger and better equipped.

Camp 3 (Colera or Berlin)

The summit of Aconcagua stands at 6962 meters, making it the highest point in the Americas. Climbers experience extreme cold, low oxygen, and breathtaking vistas at this pinnacle of their journey.

Summit (Aconcagua's Highest Point)

Although it demands significant physical effort, ascending this peak is considered one of the more attainable challenges among the Seven Summits.

Climbing Aconcagua requires a mandatory climbing permit, the cost of which varies depending on the season.

This permit is mandatory for climbing Aconcagua and covers park entry and basic rescue services.

Discover the Expertise of Spondylus Emotion & Experience

Trips offered by Spondylus Emotion & Experience

Tupungato
$2,090

Marmolejo
$1,490

Nevado del Plomo
$920

Parinacota
$2,390

Ojos del Salado
$2,750

Llullaillaco
$3,890

Aconcagua
$4,700

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Discover the Expertise of Spondylus Emotion & Experience

Trips offered by Spondylus Emotion & Experience

Tupungato$2,090

Marmolejo$1,490

Nevado del Plomo$920

Parinacota$2,390

Ojos del Salado$2,750

Llullaillaco$3,890

Aconcagua$4,700