Tupungato, a formidable peak straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, stands tall at 6,570 meters, offering a challenging climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is not for the faint-hearted, with routes presenting a mix of steep slopes and rugged terrain. The mountain's relative remoteness adds an extra layer of difficulty, requiring climbers to be self-sufficient and well-prepared for a multi-day expedition. Weather can be unpredictable, with high winds and sudden temperature drops, so readiness for harsh conditions is essential.

Most climbers approach Tupungato from the Chilean side, utilizing the Valle de los Yaretas as the traditional base camp area. The approach involves navigating through valleys and high-altitude plateaus before tackling the more technical sections. The upper reaches of the mountain demand proficiency in glacier travel and crevasse navigation, with the final push to the summit often requiring crampons and ice axes. Those who reach the top are rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the Andes, a testament to the mountain's grandeur and the climber's perseverance.

Given the technical and logistical challenges of climbing Tupungato, it's no surprise that it remains less frequented compared to other Andean giants. The mountain's allure lies in its untouched nature and the solitude it offers, a rare opportunity for introspection amidst the vast wilderness. For those interested in organized expeditions, there are currently 9 guides offering climbs up this majestic peak, providing options for those who prefer a structured approach to their ascent.

Tupungato

About three hours drive from La Paz is Sorata, a nice little town to grab lunch.
From there a decent dirt road heads up the valley to Lacatya. Where you can either camp and start walking (with / without donkeys), or continue up a rough 4x4 track to near the top of the valley - from where it's just 30 minutes to the pass and 30 minutes down the other side to base camp.

At 6,368 meters, Illampu is one of the most formidable peaks in Bolivia. Known for its dramatic prominence and challenging routes, this mountain demands respect and experience from those who attempt its ascent. The climb is a true test of skill and endurance, as Illampu offers a range of technical challenges that will keep any seasoned mountaineer on their toes. The approach is typically made from the town of Sorata, with the route taking you through varied terrain that ranges from picturesque valleys to steep, snowy inclines that require precise crampon work.

The climb itself is not for the faint of heart. Weather conditions on Illampu can be unpredictable, with sudden snowstorms and high winds that can turn a climb into a battle against the elements. The glacier crossings are particularly treacherous, demanding advanced skills in navigation and crevasse rescue. The technical sections involve steep ice and mixed climbing, which require proficiency in using ice axes and protection placement. The summit push is often made in the early hours, with climbers needing to be prepared for long, grueling days on the mountain.

Illampu's allure lies in its remoteness and the sense of accomplishment it offers to those who reach its summit. The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular, with panoramas of the surrounding Andes that are well worth the effort. For those looking to take on this challenge, there are 5 guides who offer expeditions and climbs on Illampu, providing options for those who prefer to have local expertise on their side. Whether you choose to go with a guide or independently, climbing Illampu is an experience that will test your limits and reward you with unforgettable memories.

The starting point for the climb, located at the base of Illampu.

Base Camp - Aguas Calientes

The primary high camp where climbers acclimatize and prepare for the summit push.

High Camp

An advanced high camp used by some climbers to shorten the summit day.

Advanced High Camp

The summit of Illampu, offering challenging routes and stunning views of the Andes.

Summit

Driving up from Sorata you'll reach Lacatya. From here you can hire donkeys to head up the valley and over to base camp (Aguas Calientes). These days there's a 4x4 track that extends all the way up the valley, so alternatively drive that and walk a last hour over the pass to base camp.

The climb starts at Base Camp (4400m), moves to High Camp (5100m) and potentially to Advanced High Camp (5600m), before the final push to the Summit (6368m).
However if you are already acclimatised then just one high camp around 5300m is fine.
If you high camp at 5300m then there's 1-2 hours to the top of the glacier where the wall and real climbing begins.

For the typical route there are still a couple of options, both to do with acclimitization and your pace:
- walk in from Lacatya (with / without donkeys)
- use one or two high camps

Aguas Calientes / Base camp

Lacatya

High camp

Illampu

Mount Aconcagua stands as the tallest peak in the Andes and the highest mountain outside of Asia, reaching a formidable height of 6,962 meters. Located in Argentina, it's a coveted summit for many mountaineers seeking to challenge themselves on one of the world's Seven Summits. The climb itself doesn’t pose significant technical difficulties, making it appealing to those who have honed their high-altitude skills and are prepared for the physical demands and unpredictable weather conditions that accompany such an altitude.

The Normal Route is the most popular path up Aconcagua, offering a straightforward trek without the need for advanced technical climbing. However, don't let its non-technical nature mislead you; the mountain demands respect. The thin air at such elevations can be a formidable adversary, and the notorious winds, sometimes reaching hurricane force, can quickly change the dynamics of the ascent. Acclimatization is a crucial component of success on this mountain, and those who ignore this may find themselves turning back before reaching the summit.

For those seeking a more isolated and technical challenge, the Polish Glacier Route offers a steeper and more demanding climb. Here, you'll need to be adept with crampons and ice axes, navigating through sections where crevasses and seracs become more prevalent. Despite the challenges, reaching the summit of the tallest peak in Argentina is a reward in itself, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Andes. There are currently 33 guides that offer expeditions to this majestic mountain, ensuring that those who seek its summit have ample support options.

The starting point for Aconcagua climbers, Plaza de Mulas is a well-equipped base camp situated at 4350 meters above sea level. It serves as the launchpad for the ascent.

Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas)

Located at 5000 meters, Camp 1 (Canada) is the first acclimatization stop on the Normal Route. It offers some shelter and is a good place to adjust to higher altitudes.

Camp 1 (Canada)

Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is situated at 5500 meters. It provides essential acclimatization and is known for its spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.

Camp 2 (Nido de Cóndores)

The final camp used for the summit push is set up at either Camp Colera (6,000m) or Camp Berlin (5,950m). Both at around 6000m. Berlin used to be typical, but now Colera is favoured. Colera is bigger and better equipped.

Camp 3 (Colera or Berlin)

The summit of Aconcagua stands at 6962 meters, making it the highest point in the Americas. Climbers experience extreme cold, low oxygen, and breathtaking vistas at this pinnacle of their journey.

Summit (Aconcagua's Highest Point)

Although it demands significant physical effort, ascending this peak is considered one of the more attainable challenges among the Seven Summits.

Climbing Aconcagua requires a mandatory climbing permit, the cost of which varies depending on the season.

This permit is mandatory for climbing Aconcagua and covers park entry and basic rescue services.

Aconcagua Climbing Permit

Plaza de Mulas

Confluenca camp

Horcones

Aconcagua

From the Argentinian Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
 </li>
</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.

Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks	4.5 / 5	49
TripAdvisor	4.5 / 5	40
Google	4.5 / 5	9

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Trips offered by Aventuras Patagonicas

Tupungato
$4,500

Illampu
$5,200

Aconcagua
$4,700

Ojos del Salado
$4,800

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