Located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Tocllaraju is a striking peak that draws the attention of seasoned mountaineers. Standing at an impressive 6,032 meters, this mountain offers a challenging yet rewarding climb, characterized by its iconic snow-capped summit and steep glacial slopes. The ascent is not for the faint-hearted, requiring technical skills to navigate its mixed terrain of ice and snow. The mountain's prominent features include its sharp ridgelines and the prominent cornices that define its silhouette, offering a picturesque yet formidable challenge to those who venture to its heights.

The climb to the summit of Tocllaraju is typically attempted via the northwest ridge, which is considered the most accessible route. However, it demands proficiency in alpine techniques, including the ability to handle crevasse crossings and steep ice sections. The conditions can be unpredictable, with weather patterns that shift rapidly, requiring climbers to be well-prepared and adaptable. The technical difficulty and altitude make it a suitable objective for those who have already honed their climbing skills on comparable peaks and are seeking a new challenge in the Peruvian Andes.

For those interested in experiencing the majestic ascent of Tocllaraju, there are currently 8 guides that offer expeditions to this impressive mountain. Each ascent is a unique journey, demanding respect for the mountain and a deep appreciation for the raw beauty of the Cordillera Blanca. The experience is bound to be a memorable addition to any mountaineer's repertoire, offering both the thrill of the climb and the serenity of the high Andes.

Tocllaraju

Take transport from Huaraz to Yuangay, from there its a walk up to base camp. 
Many trekkers come to this trailhead too, so arranging a shared taxi is also a good idea.

Chopicalqui is an impressive peak located in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes in Peru. Standing at an elevation of approximately 6,354 meters (20,846 feet), it offers a challenging ascent for those who seek to conquer its icy slopes. The climb is typically approached from the Llanganuco Valley, providing a route that is both demanding and rewarding. The ascent is characterized by steep snow and ice slopes, crevasses, and a dramatic summit ridge. It's a climb that requires solid technical skills, particularly in ice climbing and glacier navigation.

The route to the summit of Chopicalqui is not overly crowded, offering a more secluded experience compared to other peaks in the region. The mountain's conditions can be unpredictable, with sudden weather changes and the ever-present risk of avalanches. It's important to be well-prepared and equipped for the climb, as the high altitude and technical sections can test even seasoned mountaineers. The views from the summit, if the weather permits, reveal a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making the challenge well worth the effort.

For those interested in climbing Chopicalqui, it's essential to plan for acclimatization, given its height and the demands of the ascent. There are currently 13 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent mountain, providing options for those looking to tackle this adventure with expert support. The sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit is immense, and it's a testament to one's mountaineering skills and determination.

The starting point of the climb, offering a good area for acclimatization and preparation before the ascent begins. A one hour walk from the trail head. Good water.

Base Camp

A transitional camp set on a rocky moraine; serves as a key rest stop before tackling the glacier. Water is available 15 minutes away.

Moraine Camp

Located on the glacier, this camp is used for acclimatization and staging for the summit push. The terrain becomes significantly icier and requires the use of crampons and ice axes.

High camp

The summit of Chopicalqui offers panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca, including nearby peaks such as Huascaran and Pisco.

Summit

The ascent of Chopicalqui progresses through several camps, starting from Base Camp at 4350 meters up to the Summit at 6354 meters. Key stops include Moraine Camp for initial acclimatization, followed by High Camp for further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers must navigate glaciers and steep ice with appropriate gear.

From the trail head it's 45 minute walk to base camp. Useful for acclimatisation, but otherwise you can go straight to Moraine camp the first day,

Moraine camp

Chopicalqui

Yanapaccha, located in the Cordillera Blanca range of Peru, stands at an elevation of 5,460 meters. This mountain is known for its relatively moderate routes, making it a popular choice among mountaineers looking to experience a high-altitude climb without the extreme technical challenges. The standard route, often accessed via the Llanganuco Valley, offers a mix of glacier travel and snow climbing. While the ascent is not overly technical, it does require a good understanding of glacier navigation and crevasse rescue, as the conditions can change rapidly. The views from the summit encompass a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks, rewarding climbers with sights of some of the most iconic mountains in the region.

The approach to Yanapaccha is as much a part of the adventure as the climb itself. Starting from the Llanganuco Lakes, you’ll traverse through a landscape dotted with alpine flora and rugged terrain. The base camp sits at around 4,700 meters, providing a suitable spot to acclimatize before the summit push. The climb involves crossing crevassed sections and negotiating snow slopes that can vary in difficulty depending on seasonal conditions. Early starts are typical to take advantage of firmer snow conditions and to minimize exposure to avalanche risk as the day warms up. While not the most difficult climb in the Cordillera Blanca, Yanapaccha demands respect and preparation due to its altitude and potential hazards.

For those looking to climb Yanapaccha, it’s worth noting that there are five guides who offer expeditions to this mountain. Their local expertise can be invaluable, especially for those unfamiliar with the unique conditions of the Peruvian Andes. Whether you choose to engage their services or go independently, Yanapaccha presents a rewarding challenge for any mountaineer seeking to expand their high-altitude experience.

Discover the Expertise of Cordillera Blanca Summit

Trips offered by Cordillera Blanca Summit

Tocllaraju
$900

Chopicalqui
$900

Yanapaccha
$400

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Discover the Expertise of Cordillera Blanca Summit

Trips offered by Cordillera Blanca Summit

Tocllaraju$900

Chopicalqui$900

Yanapaccha$400

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Tocllaraju
$900

Chopicalqui
$900

Yanapaccha
$400