Climbing Iliniza South
Also known as: Iliniza sur
Ecuador
Iliniza South in Ecuador is a formidable peak that commands respect from experienced mountaineers. Standing at an impressive 5,263 meters (17,267 feet), it is the higher of the two Iliniza peaks. The ascent is known for its technical difficulty, requiring a solid understanding of mixed ice and rock climbing techniques. While the mountain offers a thrilling challenge, it is not for the faint-hearted, as the conditions can be quite demanding. Climbers often face unpredictable weather, with sudden changes that can transform the ascent into an arduous journey.
The route to the summit typically starts from the Nuevos Horizontes Refuge, situated between Iliniza South and its sister peak. From there, the path to the top involves navigating steep, icy slopes and negotiating a series of crevasses. The final push to the summit is particularly challenging, with sections that demand precise footwork and the use of technical gear. The mountain's conditions can vary significantly, with snow and ice often masking the underlying rock, making each step a test of skill and adaptability. It's essential to be well-prepared for the rapidly shifting weather, which can turn a clear day into a blustery, snow-covered ascent.
Given its challenging conditions, Iliniza South is not a peak to be underestimated. It offers a rewarding experience for those with the experience and determination to tackle its slopes. The mountain's rugged beauty and the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit are well worth the effort. For those seeking guided assistance, there are currently 2 guides offering expeditions to climb Iliniza South, ensuring that mountaineers have the support they need to safely enjoy this remarkable peak.
Difficulty
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
These are pictures taken while climbing Iliniza South. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Iliniza South, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Iliniza South History
Climbing history of Iliniza South
The history of Iliniza South is steeped in early mountaineering attempts and local traditions. The Iliniza peaks, comprising Iliniza North and Iliniza South, have long been a focal point for climbers drawn to their challenging ascents. The first successful summit of Iliniza South was achieved in 1880 by the French mountaineer Jean-Antoine Carrel, who was accompanied by the Italian guide Louis Carrel. This ascent marked a significant milestone in the exploration of the Ecuadorian Andes.
The region surrounding Iliniza South is inhabited by indigenous communities with a rich cultural heritage closely linked to the land. These communities have lived in harmony with the mountainous landscape for generations, and their traditions offer a unique perspective on the history of the area.
Iliniza South Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Iliniza South route.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Iliniza South climb.
