Climbing Cayambe
Ecuador
Cayambe in Ecuador is a mountain that offers a rewarding climb for those who seek an adventure beyond the usual routes. Standing at an impressive height of 5,790 meters, it is the third highest peak in the country and the only mountain on the equator with a permanent snow cap. The climb begins from the Cayambe Refuge at 4,600 meters, where a straightforward path leads through rocky terrain and glacier fields. The approach to the glacier is gradual, and the initial ascent provides a good opportunity to acclimatize while taking in the striking landscape of the Andes.
The climb itself is a mix of moderate snow and ice routes, making it a worthy challenge for mountaineers with some experience in glacier travel. The main difficulties arise as you navigate crevasses and ascend steep sections of ice, which require careful footwork and sound rope technique. The weather conditions on Cayambe can change rapidly, with clear mornings giving way to afternoon snowstorms, so it’s crucial to start early. The reward is a breathtaking summit view that stretches from the Amazon basin to the peaks of the Andes.
Cayambe's location on the equator is unique, offering a distinct experience compared to other climbs in the region. While the mountain is accessible year-round, the best climbing conditions are typically found from December to February and from June to August, when the weather is more stable. A total of 9 experienced guides offer expeditions up Cayambe, so while you may not need one, they are available if you prefer local expertise during your ascent.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
These are pictures taken while climbing Cayambe. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Cayambe, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Cayambe History
Climbing history of Cayambe
Cayambe has a rich history that is deeply intertwined with the indigenous people who have lived in its vicinity for centuries. The Quijos and Cayambis, indigenous groups native to the area, have a long-standing connection with the mountain, considering it a sacred entity within their cultural and spiritual beliefs.
Regarding early summit attempts, the first recorded ascent was accomplished by British mountaineer Edward Whymper in 1880, alongside his Italian guides Jean-Antoine Carrel and Louis Carrel. This successful climb marked a significant achievement in the history of mountaineering in Ecuador, as Cayambe was one of the highest peaks climbed at the time.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Cayambe climb.
