Huandoy
Huandoy is a striking mountain massif in Peru’s renowned Cordillera Blanca, reaching a height of 6,395 meters (20,981 feet). Often overshadowed by its famous neighbor, Huascarán, Huandoy offers a challenging ascent for experienced climbers drawn to Peru’s high-altitude peaks. Comprising four summits—Huandoy North, South, East, and West—the massif is known for its imposing ice faces, sharp ridges, and intricate glacier routes that demand technical skills and careful navigation.
Climbers typically attempt Huandoy North, the highest of the four summits, via the Huandoy Valley, with ascents requiring ice climbing, crevasse negotiation, and advanced alpine techniques. The approach to the base camp is beautiful but rugged, and high camps are established on steep, glaciated slopes. Given the altitude and exposure, acclimatization is essential to handle the thin air and minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
The summit rewards climbers with breathtaking views of the Cordillera Blanca, including vistas of Huascarán, Chopicalqui, and other surrounding peaks. With its complex ice terrain, unpredictable weather, and remote location, Huandoy offers a true expedition experience and is ideal for climbers with previous high-altitude experience looking to take on one of Peru's classic alpine challenges.
Difficulty
- D: Hard (alpine grade 4)
Guide links
Huandoy Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Huandoy route.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Huandoy climb.