Climbing Ancohuma
Bolivia
Standing tall in the Cordillera Real range, Ancohuma is one of Bolivia's most majestic peaks, reaching an impressive height of 6,427 meters. The mountain offers a formidable yet rewarding climb, with its snow-capped summit often shrouded in clouds. The ascent is not overly technical, but it does demand respect for its conditions and the high altitude. Acclimatization is crucial, and the journey requires solid mountaineering skills. The normal route follows the southwest ridge, where climbers navigate sprawling glaciers and steep snow slopes.
Weather on Ancohuma can be unpredictable, with conditions varying significantly as you ascend. It’s crucial to keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared for sudden changes. The climb is typically attempted during the dry season from May to September, when the weather is more stable. Expect cold temperatures, particularly on summit day, and be prepared for strong winds. Despite the challenges, reaching the summit rewards climbers with breathtaking views of the surrounding Andes and a profound sense of achievement.
The journey to Ancohuma begins in the town of Sorata, a quaint locale that serves as the gateway to the mountain. From there, a trek to base camp provides a chance to take in the stunning Bolivian landscape before the real climbing begins. Unlike some other peaks in the region, Ancohuma sees fewer crowds, offering a more solitary and introspective experience. If you're considering making an attempt, there are 4 guides available who offer expeditions to this striking peak.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
When to go
- June to August
These are pictures taken while climbing Ancohuma. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Ancohuma, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Ancohuma History
Climbing history of Ancohuma
The history of Ancohuma, one of Bolivia's majestic peaks, is marked by early exploration and climbing attempts. The first recorded ascent of Ancohuma was achieved in 1919 by the German climber Rudolf Dienst and his Swiss partner Adolf Schulze. Their successful climb was a significant achievement during a period when the Andes were being thoroughly explored by European mountaineers.
The region surrounding Ancohuma has a rich cultural history. It is home to the indigenous Aymara people, who have lived in the highlands of Bolivia for centuries. Their presence and traditional knowledge of the land have been integral to the history and culture of the region.
Ancohuma Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Ancohuma route.
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