<ul>
 <li>Public Bus: This is the most common and budget-friendly option for getting to the start of the Pisang peak climb. Buses run regularly from Kathmandu to Besishahar, where you can catch a jeep to Chame, the starting point of the trek.</li>
 <li>Private Jeep: If you prefer a more comfortable and quicker ride, you can hire a private jeep from Kathmandu to Chame. This option is more expensive than taking the public bus.</li>
 <li>Domestic Flight: If you want to skip the long and bumpy road journey altogether, you can take a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara and then to Jomsom. From Jomsom, you can either trek to Chame or hire a jeep to take you there.</li>
 <li>Hired Car: Another option is to hire a car from Kathmandu to Besishahar and then take a jeep to Chame. This is a more expensive option, but you have more flexibility and can stop along the way if you want to.</li>
</ul>

<ul>
 <li>Teahouses: These are the most basic form of accommodation, with shared rooms and common bathrooms. Prices are generally low, around $5-$10 per night, and availability can be limited in peak season.</li>
 <li>Lodges: These are more comfortable than teahouses and often offer private rooms with attached bathrooms. Prices range from $15-$40 per night, depending on the level of amenities offered.</li>
 <li>Hotels: There are a few hotels in the larger towns along the route, such as Chame and Manang. These offer the most comfortable accommodations, with amenities like hot showers and wifi. Prices range from $50-$100 per night.</li>
</ul>

Pisang Peak, nestled in the Annapurna region of Nepal, stands at an impressive 6,091 meters. Known for its relatively accessible climbing route, it offers an enticing challenge to those who've already cut their teeth on other peaks. The approach is typically made via the village of Pisang, which provides a scenic backdrop for acclimatization. The climb itself presents a blend of rock and ice, demanding both technical skill and adaptability. Ascending Pisang Peak is not just about reaching the summit; it's about navigating its unique terrain and variable conditions with precision and care.

For those considering the climb, expect a route that alternates between moderate slopes and steeper sections requiring fixed ropes. The ascent is often approached from the southwest ridge, where climbers find the challenge of mixed climbing rewarding. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, with winds and sudden snowfalls adding to the complexity. The peak demands respect for its potential hazards, such as crevasses and avalanche-prone areas. Despite these challenges, the view from the summit rewards climbers with panoramic vistas of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges, a sight that is hard to rival.

It's worth noting that Pisang Peak, while categorized as a trekking peak, should not be underestimated. Climbers need a good understanding of alpine techniques and strong physical conditioning. The mountain's popularity means it's well-frequented, but it also offers solitude and a sense of wilderness that's becoming rare in the more commercialized climbing spots. For those ready to take on its challenges, a total of 53 guides are available to support your expedition, though each climber must be prepared to rely on their skill and judgment when tackling this formidable peak.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Base Layers</li>
 <li>Insulating Layers</li>
 <li>Shell Jacket and Pants</li>
 <li>Down Jacket</li>
 <li>Warm Hat</li>
 <li>Gloves and Liners</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking Boots</li>
 <li>Socks</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Climbing Gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering Boots</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice Axe</li>
 <li>Climbing Harness</li>
 <li>Carabiners and Quickdraws</li>
 <li>Climbing Helmet</li>
 <li>Rope (if not hiring a guide)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Backpack and Luggage:
 <ul>
 <li>Backpack</li>
 <li>Daypack</li>
 <li>Duffel Bag</li>
 <li>Stuff Sacks</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Sleeping:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping Bag (rated to at least -20C)</li>
 <li>Sleeping Pad</li>
 <li>Pillow (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Camping:
 <ul>
 <li>Tent</li>
 <li>Cooking Stove and Fuel</li>
 <li>Cooking Pot and Utensils</li>
 <li>Water Treatment System or Tablets</li>
 <li>Lighter or Matches</li>
 <li>Headlamp and Extra Batteries</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and Lip Balm</li>
 <li>Personal First Aid Kit</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Other Items:
 <ul>
 <li>Trekking Poles</li>
 <li>Sunglasses</li>
 <li>Camera and Extra Batteries</li>
 <li>Power Bank and Charging Cables</li>
 <li>Travel Documents and Money</li>
 <li>Map and Compass/GPS</li>
 <li>Whistle and Emergency Blanket</li>
 <li>Toiletries</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Pisang Peak is a challenging climb with technical sections.

The starting point of the climb, located at an altitude of 4,380 meters. It serves as a preparation and acclimatization site before the ascent.

Pisang Peak Base Camp

A campsite situated at an elevation of 5,400 meters, providing a strategic location for the final push towards the summit.

High Camp

The culmination of the climb, reaching an elevation of 6,091 meters. From the summit, climbers are treated to breathtaking views of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges.

Pisang Peak Summit

The climbing itinerary for Pisang Peak involves a base camp at 4,380 meters, a high camp at 5,400 meters, and the summit at 6,091 meters. This challenging ascent requires technical skills and offers experienced climbers stunning vistas of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

Pisang peak

Permits are required for climbing Pisang peak. Here are the necessary permits and their costs:

A permit to enter and trek through the Annapurna Conservation Area

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)

A permit to provide information about trekkers and their routes for safety purposes

Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS)

Pisang Peak Climbing Permit

Bulbule

Jagat

Chame

Dharapani

Upper Pisang

Base camp

High camp

Manang

Yak Kharka

Thorong Phedi

Muktinath

Thorong La pass

Jomsom

Besisahar

Pisang Peak climbing services include accommodation, food, guides, porters, medical, gear, transport, communications, ATMs and shops.

The best time to climb Pisang peak is during the autumn months of September to November, when the weather is generally dry and stable. The spring months of March to May are also a good time to climb, with warmer temperatures but more chance of precipitation.

<h3>Getting to Cholatse</h3>
The primary gateway to Cholatse and the Khumbu region is Lukla.

<ul>
 <li>
 By Air:
 The most common and quickest way to get to Lukla is by taking a flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. This flight is approximately 30 minutes.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Foot:
 For those seeking a longer trekking experience, it's possible to trek from Jiri to Lukla, which takes about 6-8 days. This route retraces the original route taken by early Everest expeditions.
 </li>
</ul>

<h3>From Cholatse</h3>
Most expeditions return to Lukla after summiting Cholatse, following the same route back.

<ul>
 <li>
 By Air:
 Once back in Lukla, climbers typically fly back to Kathmandu from Tenzing-Hillary Airport.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Foot:
 For those who trekked in from Jiri, they can choose to trek back the same way, enjoying the landscapes of the lower Khumbu region.
 </li>
</ul>

Cholatse, located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, stands as a formidable challenge at an elevation of 6,440 meters. The mountain, also known as Jobo Lhaptshan, is part of the Mahalangur range in the Himalayas and offers a climb that is not for the faint-hearted. Its steep, icy facets and complex ridges require technical proficiency and a well-prepared team. The north face, in particular, is renowned for its demanding nature, with mixed climbing conditions that can test even seasoned alpinists. The mountain offers a rewarding ascent for those looking to push their limits on less-traveled paths.

The approach to Cholatse often starts from the village of Dzongla, providing an opportunity to acclimatize and appreciate the rugged beauty of the surrounding peaks. The climb itself involves navigating through intricate seracs, crevasses, and often unpredictable weather conditions. The west face presents a steep and icy ascent, demanding careful route finding and efficient use of technical gear. The summit push is usually undertaken in the early hours to take advantage of more stable snow conditions and to avoid afternoon avalanches, a common challenge in this region.

The remoteness and technical demands of Cholatse mean it remains less popular than some of its neighboring giants, but for those with the experience and determination, it offers a unique and exhilarating climb. While the mountain doesn’t see as many ascents as others in the area, it rewards climbers with stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Ama Dablam and Taboche. For those interested, there are approximately 20 guides offering expeditions to this majestic peak, providing support for those ready to take on the challenge.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Fleece or softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof and windproof jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof and windproof pants</li>
 <li>Warm gloves</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Sun hat or cap</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Footwear:
 <ul>
 <li>Hiking boots (sturdy and waterproof)</li>
 <li>Socks liners (to prevent blisters)</li>
 <li>Camp shoes or sandals</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Backpack (40-50 liters)</li>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Trekking poles</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Carabiners and quickdraws</li>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Rope (if required)</li>
 <li>Headlamp with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Sunglasses with UV protection</li>
 <li>Sunscreen (high SPF)</li>
 <li>Lip balm</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Personal medications</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>Snacks and energy bars</li>
 <li>Map and compass</li>
 <li>Whistle</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Duct tape</li>
 <li>Trash bags</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Personal Hygiene:
 <ul>
 <li>Toothbrush and toothpaste</li>
 <li>Biodegradable soap</li>
 <li>Quick-dry towel</li>
 <li>Toilet paper</li>
 <li>Hand sanitizer</li>
 <li>Wet wipes</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Cash (local currency)</li>
 <li>Passport and permits</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Camera and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Portable charger</li>
 <li>Plug adapter</li>
 <li>Notebook and pen</li>
 <li>Books or entertainment</li>
 <li>Extra plastic bags (for waterproofing)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

The starting point of the climb, located at an elevation of 5000 meters.

Base Camp

The first camp on the route, situated at an elevation of 5650 meters.

Camp 1

The second camp, positioned at an elevation of 6020 meters.

Camp 2

The summit of Cholatse, reaching an elevation of 6440 meters. The ultimate goal of the climb.

Summit

The climbing itinerary for Cholatse involves starting from Base Camp at 4900 meters and progressing through Camps 1, and 2, at elevations of 5600, and 6100 meters, respectively. The summit of Cholatse, standing at 6440 meters, is the final objective of the climb.

Climbing Cholatse in Nepal requires a series of permits to ensure legal and environmentally responsible trekking and mountaineering. These permits are essential for the protection of Nepal's natural and cultural heritage.

Required for climbing Cholatse; the fee varies based on the season.

Cholatse Climbing Permit

Allows entry into Sagarmatha National Park, which covers the Everest region.

Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

Cho La Pass

The Cholatse route offers a range of services to support climbers and trekkers throughout their journey. Here is an overview of the services available on the route:

Add a side trip to the stunning Gokyo Lakes, the world’s highest freshwater lake system. It's a great opportunity to experience more of the breathtaking Khumbu region and acclimatize further before attempting the summit push. A visit to Gokyo Ri provides panoramic views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and, of course, Cholatse itself.

Gokyo Lakes

Cross the challenging Cho La Pass, one of the three high passes in the Everest region. This side trip can add a thrilling additional mountaineering challenge to your expedition, offering impressive views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. It's a challenging trek, so ensure you're properly acclimatized and prepared.

Cho La Pass Crossing

The weather conditions for climbing Cholatse vary throughout the year. The most popular climbing months are generally during the spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October) when the weather is relatively stable. During these seasons, climbers can expect milder temperatures and drier conditions. However, it's essential to note that weather conditions in the mountains can be unpredictable, and climbers should be prepared for sudden changes and extreme conditions at higher elevations.

Cholatse

Pokalde, nestled in the Khumbu region of Nepal, stands at a modest height of 5,806 meters. While it might not boast the towering stature of its neighbors, Pokalde offers a unique climbing experience that is both rewarding and challenging. The approach to the mountain is straightforward, with the base camp accessible via the classic Everest Base Camp trek route. As you ascend, you'll find that the terrain is generally rocky with a few sections of snow and ice near the summit. The climb itself is categorized as a trekking peak, making it accessible to those who have some experience but are not necessarily looking for an extremely technical ascent.

The most common route up Pokalde is from the south ridge, which provides a direct and scenic path to the summit. Here, climbers can expect some scrambling, with a few sections requiring the use of ropes depending on the conditions. The crux of the climb often lies in the final stretch, where snow and ice can present a challenge. It's vital to be prepared for varied weather conditions, as they can change rapidly in this region, adding an extra layer of complexity to the ascent. Despite its reputation as a less demanding peak, reaching the summit of Pokalde still offers the thrill of a high-altitude climb and panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayas.

For those interested in taking on Pokalde, there are approximately 20 guides who offer expeditions up this mountain. While the mountain is considered suitable for those with some climbing experience, it's always wise to be prepared and to understand the nuances of the climb. The opportunity to tackle Pokalde provides a fantastic stepping stone for mountaineers looking to hone their skills in the Himalayas without the commitment of a more formidable peak.

Pokalde

Kyajo Ri in Nepal stands as an impressive peak for those seeking a technical ascent amidst the towering giants of the Himalayas. Situated in the Khumbu region, this mountain reaches a height of 6,186 meters and offers a challenging climb that demands respect and preparation. Unlike some of its more famous neighbors, Kyajo Ri provides an opportunity for mountaineers to experience a less crowded ascent with a route that requires skillful navigation of snow, ice, and rock. The climb is often approached via the Gokyo Valley, with the base camp set in a picturesque setting at 4,550 meters, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks.

The difficulty of Kyajo Ri should not be underestimated. The technical demands include steep snow slopes and intricate ridge climbing that make it a perfect choice for those looking to hone their alpine skills. The ascent typically involves establishing two high camps, with Camp 1 at around 5,350 meters and Camp 2 at about 5,700 meters. The crux of the climb is the final push to the summit, which involves navigating mixed terrain that requires proficiency in both rock and ice climbing techniques. It's important to be prepared for rapidly changing conditions, as the mountain's weather can be unpredictable, demanding careful planning and flexibility in your itinerary.

For those who have already experienced climbing in the Himalayas, Kyajo Ri offers a rewarding challenge without the logistical complexities of the 8,000-meter giants. The sense of accomplishment from standing atop this peak, with panoramic views stretching across the Khumbu region, is a testament to the mountain's allure. Currently, there are 30 guides offering expeditions up Kyajo Ri, providing support for those who choose to take on this remarkable climb.

Kyajo Ri

Getting to the Start of Dhampus Peak Climb:
<ul>
 <li>Option 1: The Dhampus Peak climbing itinerary initiates with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara city then to Beni in the west. Trek starts towards Tatopani and progresses to the quaint villages of Ghasa, Larjung and Marpha along the Kali Gandaki river. Trek moves to a higher altitude from Yak Kharka and crosses Dhampus/Thapa Pass before summiting Dhampus Peak.. The road journey from Pokhara to the trailhead offers breathtaking views of the Himalayan landscape.</li>
 <li>Option 2: Overland Journey from Kathmandu to Pokhara: If you prefer a more budget-friendly option, you can opt for an overland journey from Kathmandu to Pokhara by bus. The bus ride takes around 6-7 hours and offers a chance to witness the countryside scenery and the lifestyle of local communities en route to Pokhara. From Pokhara, continue as mentioned in Option 1 to reach the trailhead.</li>
</ul>

Return from the End of Dhampus Peak Climb:
<ul>
 <li>Option 1: Trekking Back to Pokhara: After successfully summiting Dhampus Peak and completing the trek, you have the option to trek back to Pokhara following the same route. This return journey allows you to revisit the beautiful landscapes and villages you encountered on your way up.</li>
 <li>Option 2: Overland Transport to Pokhara: If you prefer a more convenient and quicker return, you can arrange for overland transport from the endpoint of the trek to Pokhara. Private jeeps or shared vehicles can be hired to take you back to Pokhara, where you can relax and celebrate your accomplishment.</li>
 <li>Option 3: Alternate Trekking Route or Further Exploration: For those seeking more adventure, you can choose an alternate trekking route to explore the Annapurna region further. There are several trails that lead to different destinations, allowing you to extend your journey and experience more of Nepal's natural beauty.</li>
</ul>

Dhampus Peak, nestled in the heart of the Dhaulagiri range in Nepal, stands at an impressive 6,012 meters above sea level. This peak offers a non-technical climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers looking for a less crowded ascent with rewarding views. The approach to the mountain involves traversing through the magnificent Kali Gandaki valley, offering glimpses of the diverse landscapes of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The climb itself is straightforward, with the main challenge being its altitude. The ascent demands careful acclimatization, but the route does not require advanced technical skills, making it an appealing choice for those who have experience in high-altitude trekking.

The conditions on Dhampus Peak are typical of the Himalayan region, with weather patterns that can change rapidly. Climbers should be prepared for cold temperatures and the possibility of snow, particularly during the early or late parts of the climbing season. The best time to attempt this peak is during the pre-monsoon (April to June) and post-monsoon (September to November) periods when the weather is most stable. The final ascent involves negotiating a snow-covered ridge that offers a panoramic vista of the surrounding peaks, including the towering Dhaulagiri and the distant Annapurnas. This ridge walk is the highlight of the climb, providing a sense of solitude and a connection to the vastness of the Himalayas.

For those considering an expedition to Dhampus Peak, you'll find that the mountain is served by around 30 guides who offer their expertise to help you navigate its slopes. These guides can assist with logistics, ensuring a safe and enriching experience. The mountain’s relatively accessible nature combined with its stunning scenery makes it a worthy addition to any mountaineer's itinerary in Nepal.

<h3>Gear:</h3>
<ul>
 <li>Mountaineering Boots</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice Axe</li>
 <li>Climbing Harness</li>
 <li>Climbing Helmet</li>
 <li>Trekking Poles</li>
 <li>Rope (with appropriate length)</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Quickdraws</li>
 <li>Slings</li>
 <li>Ascender/Descender Device</li>
 <li>Belay Device</li>
 <li>Prusik Cord</li>
 <li>Mountaineering Backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping Bag (appropriate for the season)</li>
 <li>Sleeping Pad/Mattress</li>
 <li>Tent</li>
 <li>Cooking Stove</li>
 <li>Cookware</li>
 <li>Headlamp with Extra Batteries</li>
 <li>Sun Protection (sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm)</li>
 <li>First Aid Kit</li>
 <li>Personal Medications</li>
 <li>Water Filtration System</li>
 <li>Map and Compass/GPS</li>
 <li>Multi-tool/Knife</li>
 <li>Lightweight Clothing (moisture-wicking base layers, insulating layers, and waterproof shell)</li>
 <li>Warm Hat and Gloves</li>
 <li>Mountaineering Goggles</li>
 <li>Thermal Socks</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hand Warmers</li>
 <li>Emergency Shelter</li>
 <li>Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) or Gamow Bag</li>
 <li>Communication Device (satellite phone or radio)</li>
 <li>Emergency Whistle</li>
 <li>Repair Kit for Gear (duct tape, repair patches)</li>
 <li>Trash Bags (for waste disposal)</li>
 <li>Document Copies (passport, permits, etc.)</li>
</ul>

The journey begins at Dhampus Pass, located at an elevation of 5244 meters, where trekkers acclimatize and prepare for the climb ahead.

Hidden Valley Base Camp

The ultimate achievement awaits at the Dhampus Peak Summit, standing tall at an elevation of 6012 meters, where climbers are rewarded with unparalleled panoramic views of the Annapurna range.

Dhampus Peak Summit

For experienced climbers, the Dhampus Peak climb starts at Dhampus Pass (5244 meters). The final ascent culminates at the majestic Dhampus Peak Summit (6012 meters), offering breathtaking vistas of the Annapurna range.

This permit is required for all trekkers in Nepal.

TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Permit

This permit allows entry into the Annapurna Conservation Area, where Dhampus peak is located.

This permit specifically allows climbing Dhampus peak.

Dhampus Peak Climbing Permit

Beni

Dharapani 

Muri

Dobang

Boghara

Italian Base Camp

Dhaulagiri Base camp

Marpha

Dhampus Peak

Tilicho Lake 

The Dhampus Peak route offers a thrilling adventure in the Annapurna region of Nepal. It combines trekking through picturesque landscapes with the excitement of reaching the summit of Dhampus Peak. Along the way, trekkers and climbers can find essential services to enhance their journey.

If you have more time and a sense of adventure, venture towards Tilicho Lake, one of the highest lakes in the world. The trek offers mesmerizing landscapes and a chance to experience the remote region.

Tilicho Lake Trek

Dhampus peak is a popular climb, with most people attempting it during the months of March, April, May, and October due to the relatively stable weather conditions. However, be prepared for unpredictable weather changes, especially during the monsoon season from June to September.

Kusum Kanguru Peak in Nepal stands as a formidable challenge for climbers seeking a demanding ascent. At an altitude of around 6,367 meters, this peak is known for its rugged beauty and complex routes. The mountain is located in the Khumbu region, and it presents a technical climb that requires a high level of skill and preparation. The name Kusum Kanguru translates to "Three Snow-White Gods" in the Sherpa language, reflecting the mountain's distinct triple-summit structure. The climb is not just a test of physical endurance but also of technical acumen, as the routes demand proficiency in mixed climbing, with sections of ice, snow, and rock. 

The primary route, the South-East Ridge, is considered one of the more feasible paths, although it is by no means easy. The ascent involves navigating through steep ice walls and challenging crevasses, demanding climbers to be well-versed in the use of ropes and ice axes. The conditions can be harsh, with unpredictable weather adding to the difficulty. High winds and sudden snowstorms are not uncommon, requiring climbers to be prepared for rapid changes. The remote nature of the mountain also means that once you’re on the approach, you’re largely on your own, adding a layer of isolation to the climb.

Kusum Kanguru Peak is less trafficked than some of the more famous peaks in Nepal, which offers a sense of solitude and raw adventure. It’s crucial to plan thoroughly, ensuring that all gear is in top condition and that you have a solid understanding of the routes. A successful summit of Kusum Kanguru is a significant achievement, marking a milestone in any mountaineer's career. For those looking to embark on this journey, there are currently 11 guides offering expeditions to the peak, providing opportunities for those who wish to tackle this challenging ascent.

Kusum Kanguru Peak

Pachermo Peak, located in Nepal, stands proudly at an elevation of 6,273 meters. It's an enticing climb for those seeking an adventure in the Rolwaling region. The ascent is technically classified as moderate, yet it requires a solid grasp of mountaineering skills. The climb typically begins from the village of Simigaon and takes you through the tranquil valleys of Rolwaling, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks. The approach involves crossing the Tashi Lapcha Pass, which itself presents a challenging journey, demanding a good level of fitness and acclimatization. The climb is generally attempted in the post-monsoon season, from October to November, or in the pre-monsoon season, from April to May.

The route to the summit involves navigating glaciers and a sharp ridge, making it essential to have experience in using crampons, ice axes, and ropes. The final push to the top is exhilarating, with the summit ridge providing breathtaking vistas of the Khumbu region and the Himalayas. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, so it's crucial to be prepared for sudden changes. The climb offers a perfect blend of technical challenges and the thrill of high-altitude trekking, making it a rewarding experience for those looking to test their skills in a less crowded setting. The quiet beauty of Pachermo Peak is a stark contrast to the busier trekking routes, allowing climbers to connect deeply with the mountain environment.

Standing on the summit of Pachermo Peak, you'll be treated to panoramic views that are nothing short of spectacular. The sense of accomplishment is profound, knowing you've conquered a peak that, while not among the highest in Nepal, demands respect and preparedness. The descent requires careful attention, particularly on the glacier sections where crevasses can pose hazards. With 21 guides offering expeditions up Pachermo, you'll find ample support to help you tackle this remarkable climb. Whether you're a seasoned mountaineer or looking to expand your high-altitude experience, Pachermo Peak is an adventure worth pursuing.

Pachermo peak

Start walking in from either Koto or Besisahar (for a bit more acclimitization).
<ul>
 <li>Arrival:
 <ul>
 <li>Fly to Kathmandu, Nepal</li>
 <li>Take an international flight to Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Domestic Flight:
 <ul>
 <li>Take a domestic flight to Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, take a domestic flight to Besisahar, a town in the Lamjung District. This flight saves time and provides a convenient access point for the Himlung Himal route.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Overland Travel:
 <ul>
 <li>Drive to Koto via Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, travel by road to Besisahar, and then continue the journey to Koto, the starting point for the Himlung Himal climb. This overland option allows you to experience the scenic beauty of the region.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Himlung Himal, located in the Nepal section of the Himalayas, stands tall at an impressive 7,126 meters. This peak, though less frequented than its famed neighbors like Annapurna or Manaslu, offers a unique and rewarding climb for those seeking a less commercialized adventure. The ascent is mostly non-technical, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's a walk in the park. The climb demands respect, given its altitude and the potential for unpredictable weather conditions. Seasoned climbers will appreciate the relatively untouched nature of the route, which provides a sense of solitude and connection to the raw beauty of the mountains.

Most expeditions to Himlung Himal begin at the village of Phu, following a scenic trek that serves as a perfect acclimatization period. The approach is a harmonious blend of cultural immersion and wilderness trekking, setting the stage for the challenges ahead. The mountain itself offers a series of camps before the final push to the summit, which is usually attempted from Camp 3. Expect long days on the ice and snow, with crevasse navigation and steep slopes that test your stamina and resolve. The rewards are equally great, with panoramic views at the summit that few have had the privilege to witness.

Climbing Himlung Himal is a commitment that requires careful planning and a willingness to embrace the unknown. The conditions can range from straightforward ice and snow ascents to more challenging mixed terrain, depending on the season and weather patterns. It's an ideal expedition for experienced climbers looking to push their limits in a less crowded environment. While the mountain is gaining popularity, it still retains an air of exclusivity. There are currently 46 guides offering expeditions to this remarkable peak, providing ample opportunity for those ready to undertake this adventure.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof jacket</li>
 <li>Down or synthetic sleeping bag</li>
 <li>Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Fleece or softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Gloves (inner and outer)</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Sun hat or cap</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Camp shoes or sandals</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Trekking poles</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Rappel device</li>
 <li>Headlamp with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Sunglasses with UV protection</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Map and compass</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Toiletries</li>
 <li>Trekking towel</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Food and Nutrition:
 <ul>
 <li>High-energy snacks</li>
 <li>Dehydrated meals</li>
 <li>Energy gels or bars</li>
 <li>Electrolyte powder</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Camera with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Portable charger</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Repair kit (for clothing and equipment)</li>
 <li>Duct tape</li>
 <li>Ziplock bags (for waterproofing)</li>
 <li>Cash and identification</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Permits and necessary paperwork</li>
 <li>Emergency contact information</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

The starting point of the climb, located at an altitude of 4850 meters.

A campsite situated at 5600 meters above sea level.

An intermediate campsite positioned at 6200 meters.

A high camp established at 6700 meters on the mountain.

Camp 3

The majestic summit of Himlung Himal, standing at an elevation of 7126 meters.

The climbing itinerary for Himlung Himal includes stops at Base Camp (4850m), Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (6200m), Camp 3 (6700m), and finally, the summit at 7126 meters.

Climbing Himlung Himal requires several permits to ensure compliance and support local conservation efforts. The permits cover access to restricted areas and provide necessary support during the climb.

Allows entry into the restricted areas along the Himlung Himal route.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP)

Authorizes climbing Himlung Himal and includes necessary support from the local authorities.

Climbing Permit

Allows entry into the national park where Himlung Himal is located.

National Park Entry Permit

The Himlung Himal route offers basic services catering to climbers and trekkers. While the facilities may be more limited compared to popular routes, there are accommodation options, guides, porters, and some basic medical services available. It's important to plan and prepare accordingly to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the route.

Include a side trip to climb Pisang Peak, a popular trekking peak near Himlung Himal, providing an additional mountaineering challenge and acclimitization for the main climb

Pisang Peak Climb

The weather conditions on Himlung Himal vary throughout the year. The most popular climbing months are April, May, and October, which generally offer more favorable weather conditions. The mountain experiences colder temperatures and higher rainfall during the winter and monsoon seasons. It is crucial to plan your climb during the optimal months to ensure safer and more enjoyable climbing conditions.

Himlung Himal

Chulu West, nestled in the Annapurna region of Nepal, stands at a formidable 6,419 meters. This peak is a well-regarded objective among mountaineers due to its challenging yet rewarding climb. The ascent typically involves navigating a mix of snow, ice, and some rock sections, which require competent alpine skills. The route, often approached via the North-West Ridge, offers a blend of technical sections and straightforward climbing, making it a perfect playground for those looking to hone their skills on a higher altitude peak without the extreme technical demands of the neighboring giants.

Climbers should be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions, as the mountain can be quite unforgiving with sudden snowstorms and high winds. The best climbing window is generally from March to May and September to November, when the weather is relatively stable. You’ll appreciate the stunning views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges as you ascend, but the summit day can be long and demanding, necessitating a pre-dawn start. Ensure you're acclimatized, as the altitude can be a significant factor in the difficulty of the climb.

Chulu West offers a rewarding adventure for those ready to take on its challenges. With the right preparation and mindset, standing atop this peak provides an exhilarating sense of achievement. If you’re considering taking on this mountain, know that it's a climb that requires respect and careful planning. Currently, there are 45 guides offering expeditions to Chulu West, so be sure to choose one that aligns with your climbing style and objectives.

Chulu West

<ul>
 <li>Private Car/Jeep: The most convenient and comfortable way to get to the start of the Chulu East climb is by hiring a private car or jeep, which can be arranged in advance.</li>
 <li>Public Bus: Public buses are available from Kathmandu to Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. From there, you will need to hire a jeep or walk to Chame, where the trek officially starts.</li>
 <li>Shared Jeep: Shared jeeps can be found in Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. They are a more affordable option than private cars, but can be crowded and uncomfortable.</li>
 <li>Flight: Flights are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Jomsom, both of which are near the Annapurna region. From there, you can hire a jeep or take a bus to Besishahar and then proceed to Chame.</li>
 <li>Helicopter: Helicopter rides are available from Kathmandu to Chame, which is the starting point for the trek. However, they are expensive and not a practical option for most trekkers.</li>
</ul>

Accommodation on the Chulu east route varies from basic teahouses to more luxurious lodges. Most places offer shared rooms with shared bathrooms, but private rooms may also be available at a higher cost. Prices tend to increase with altitude and remoteness of the location.
<ul>
 <li>
 Teahouses: Basic and affordable, teahouses typically offer shared rooms with basic amenities like a bed and a blanket. Shared bathrooms are usually available. Prices range from about $5-15 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Lodges: More comfortable and spacious, lodges often offer private rooms with attached bathrooms. They may also offer amenities like hot showers and wifi. Prices range from about $20-50 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Camping: For those who prefer to bring their own accommodation, camping is an option on the Chulu east route. Campsites are limited, and you may need to carry your own equipment. Prices range from about $5-10 per night for camping fees.
 </li>
</ul>

Chulu East is a noteworthy peak in the Annapurna region of Nepal, standing at an impressive height of approximately 6,584 meters. This mountain is a popular choice among mountaineers due to its challenging yet achievable routes, which offer an ideal balance for those looking to step up from trekking peaks to more demanding climbs. The ascent typically begins from the village of Manang, providing a gradual acclimatization as you progress towards the higher altitudes. The initial approach involves navigating through diverse terrain, ranging from lush forests to rocky outcrops, setting the stage for the more technical sections ahead.

The climb itself is characterized by a mixture of rock and ice, with some sections requiring proficiency in technical skills. The north-east ridge is the usual route taken by climbers, which demands careful planning and execution. The route involves negotiating snow slopes and a glacier, where crevasse navigation becomes crucial. As you climb higher, the thinner air and colder temperatures present additional challenges, but the rewards of standing atop Chulu East are immense. The panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges are a testament to the effort put into the climb, offering a unique perspective of this part of the Himalayas.

Weather and conditions play a significant role in the success of the climb, with the ideal times being the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. These periods offer relatively stable weather, though sudden changes can still occur, requiring climbers to be adaptable and prepared. It's important to have a good understanding of the conditions and be ready for potential avalanche risks and rapid weather changes. There are currently 45 guides that offer expeditions up Chulu East, providing ample options for those seeking organized support for their ascent.

<ul>
 <li>
 Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Warm base layers</li>
 <li>Insulated mid layers</li>
 <li>Waterproof outer layers</li>
 <li>Warm hat and gloves</li>
 <li>Sun hat and sunglasses</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking boots and spare laces</li>
 <li>Thick socks and spare pairs</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Climbing gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners and quickdraws</li>
 <li>Belay device</li>
 <li>Ascender/descender</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Backpack:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack (50-70L)</li>
 <li>Rain cover for backpack</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Sleeping:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated to at least -20°C)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad/mattress</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Food and water:
 <ul>
 <li>Energy bars and snacks</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets/filter</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Navigation and communication:
 <ul>
 <li>Topographic map and compass</li>
 <li>GPS device</li>
 <li>Headlamp and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Cell phone and charger</li>
 <li>Radio or satellite phone (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Personal hygiene:
 <ul>
 <li>Toilet paper and trowel</li>
 <li>Hand sanitizer and wet wipes</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Insect repellent</li>
 <li>Personal medication and first aid kit</li>
 <li>Sunglasses and contact lenses/glasses (if needed)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Cash and credit card</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Duct tape and repair kit</li>
 <li>Emergency blanket</li>
 <li>Whistle</li>
 <li>Portable charger and cables</li>
 <li>Camera and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Book or entertainment (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Challenging ascent with moderate technical difficulties.

The starting point of the climb, situated at an altitude of 5360 meters. It serves as a central location for acclimatization and preparation.

Chulu East Base Camp

A campsite located at an elevation of 5530 meters, providing a crucial stop for rest and acclimatization before the summit push.

The summit of Chulu East, reaching an elevation of 6584 meters. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

Chulu East Summit

The climbing itinerary for Chulu East includes a base camp at 5360 meters, a high camp at 5530 meters, and the summit at 6584 meters. This challenging ascent requires technical climbing skills and offers experienced mountaineers an exhilarating adventure in the Annapurna region.

Chulu east

For climbing Chulu East, you will need to obtain several permits.

A permit required for entering the Annapurna Conservation Area.

A permit required for climbing Chulu East Peak.

Chulu East Peak Permit

Pisang

Ngadi

Mesokanto Pass

The Chulu East trek is a popular trekking route that offers a variety of climbing and trekking services. The route passes through several villages and remote areas, and there are several accommodation options, food choices, and gear services available.

A popular variation that includes crossing the high and scenic Mesokanto La pass to reach the remote village of Naar Phu.

The best time to climb Chulu East is from September to November, when the weather is generally dry and stable. The winter months from December to February can be very cold and snowy, while the summer months from June to August can be wet due to the monsoon season.

<ul>
 <li>
 Flight: The fastest and most convenient way to get to the start of the Island Peak climb is to take a flight to Lukla from Kathmandu, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb.
 </li>
 <li>
 Overland: It is possible to take a bus or private vehicle from Kathmandu to Jiri, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb. This option is more time-consuming but allows for a scenic overland journey.
 </li>
 <li>
 Helicopter: For those who want to save time and enjoy a unique experience, it is possible to take a helicopter from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb. This option is more expensive but offers stunning aerial views of the region.
 </li>
 <li>
 Return: At the end of the Island Peak climb, trekkers can retrace their steps back to the starting point, or alternatively, they can continue their trek to other destinations in the region, such as Gokyo Lakes or Everest Base Camp.
 </li>
</ul>

Accommodation options on the Island Peak route include teahouses, lodges, and camping. 
<ul>
 <li>Teahouses are small, family-run guesthouses offering basic accommodation. They are the most popular option and typically cost between $5-15 per night. </li>
 <li>Lodges are similar to teahouses but offer slightly more amenities, such as attached bathrooms and hot showers. They are more expensive than teahouses and cost around $15-30 per night. </li>
 <li>Camping is also an option for those who prefer to stay in tents. However, it requires bringing your own gear or renting it from a provider. Camping is usually cheaper than teahouses or lodges but can be less comfortable. </li>
</ul>

Island Peak, or Imja Tse, stands at an altitude of 6,189 meters in the heart of the Himalayas. It's a favored choice for mountaineers who have set their sights on higher summits but want to hone their skills on a challenging yet accessible peak. The approach to Island Peak is not just about the climb itself but offers a captivating journey through the Khumbu region, providing a taste of the majestic landscapes and the unique culture of Nepal. The ascent involves a combination of glacier travel, a steep headwall, and a thrilling summit ridge that demands technical ability and acclimatization.

The climb of Island Peak is often underestimated due to its relatively modest elevation compared to other Himalayan giants. However, it presents its own set of challenges. The route is typically approached via the south ridge, starting with a trek to the base camp. As you progress, you'll encounter crevassed glaciers and a headwall that requires the use of fixed ropes. The final push to the summit involves a narrow ridge that rewards climbers with breathtaking views of Lhotse, Makalu, and Baruntse. Conditions can be harsh, with unpredictable weather and extreme cold at higher altitudes, so preparation and experience are key.

Island Peak is particularly popular due to its accessibility and the opportunity it provides for mountaineers to test their skills. While it's achievable for those with some climbing experience, the peak should not be taken lightly. It's often used as a precursor to more demanding expeditions, offering a realistic taste of what higher altitude climbs entail. The mountain sees a fair number of guided expeditions, with 57 guides offering climbs, ensuring that those seeking support can find experienced partners to accompany them on their journey.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Base layers (long underwear tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Insulated mid-layer (fleece or down jacket)</li>
 <li>Outer layer (waterproof and breathable jacket and pants)</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Gloves (one thin pair and one thick pair)</li>
 <li>Hiking boots</li>
 <li>Gaiters (for keeping snow out of your boots)</li>
 <li>Socks (wool or synthetic, bring several pairs)</li>
 <li>Sunglasses (with UV protection)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Camping gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated to at least -10°C)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad (insulated)</li>
 <li>Tent (with rainfly and ground cloth)</li>
 <li>Cooking stove (with fuel)</li>
 <li>Cooking pot and utensils</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Headlamp (with extra batteries)</li>
 <li>Lighter or matches (for starting stove and campfire)</li>
 <li>Trash bags (for carrying out all waste)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Climbing gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Crampons (with anti-balling plates)</li>
 <li>Ice axe (with leash)</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Climbing helmet</li>
 <li>Carabiners (several locking and non-locking)</li>
 <li>Prusik cords (two or three lengths of 6mm cord)</li>
 <li>Ascender or Jumar (for fixed line climbing)</li>
 <li>Rappel device (ATC or Figure 8)</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots (with rigid sole and compatible with crampons)</li>
 <li>Warm gloves (for climbing)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Personal items:
 <ul>
 <li>Sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher)</li>
 <li>Lip balm (with SPF)</li>
 <li>Insect repellent</li>
 <li>Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.)</li>
 <li>Personal medication (if needed)</li>
 <li>Cash (for tipping guides and porters)</li>
 <li>Passport and permits</li>
 <li>Camera or phone (with extra battery or portable charger)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Technical climbing with steep ice and rock sections make Island peak a challenging climb.

The starting point of the climb, situated at an altitude of 5,087 meters. It serves as a hub for acclimatization and preparation.

Island Peak Base Camp

A campsite located at an elevation of 5,280 meters, providing a crucial stop for the final push towards the summit.

The pinnacle of the climb, reaching an elevation of 6,189 meters. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking views of the Khumbu region and surrounding peaks.

Island Peak Summit

The climbing itinerary for Island Peak includes a base camp at 5,087 meters, a high camp at 5,280 meters, and the summit at 6,189 meters. This demanding ascent requires technical climbing skills and offers experienced mountaineers a thrilling adventure in the heart of the Everest region.

Island peak

To climb Island Peak, you will need to obtain several permits. Here is a summary of the permits required for this trip:

Allows entry into Sagarmatha National Park.

Permit to enter Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality.

Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit

Island Peak Climbing Permit

Lukla

Salleri

The Island Peak route is a popular trekking route with a well-established tourism infrastructure. You can expect to find a range of services along the way including accommodation, food, guides, porters, medical services, gear rentals, and transportation options.

A side trip to the base camp of Ama Dablam, one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas.

Ama Dablam Base Camp

Weather on Island Peak varies greatly throughout the year. The best months for climbing are usually March to May and September to November when the weather is dry, clear and stable. However, temperatures can still be very cold and the weather can change quickly. Winter months from December to February are very cold with high levels of snowfall, while summer months from June to August are warm and wet with a high chance of monsoon rains.

	Rating	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks		4 / 5	5
Google		4 / 5	5

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Trips offered by Nepal Nomad Trekking

Pisang peak
$3,500

Cholatse
$8,500

Pokalde
$1,900

Kyajo Ri
$5,000

Dhampus Peak
$2,899

Kusum Kanguru Peak
$3,000

Pachermo peak
$4,500

Himlung Himal
$27,000

Chulu West
$2,700

Chulu east
$2,798

Island peak
$2,500

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Trips offered by Nepal Nomad Trekking

Pisang peak$3,500

Cholatse$8,500

Pokalde$1,900

Kyajo Ri$5,000

Dhampus Peak$2,899

Kusum Kanguru Peak$3,000

Pachermo peak$4,500

Himlung Himal$27,000

Chulu West$2,700

Chulu east$2,798

Island peak$2,500