Climbing Island peak
Also known as: Imja Tse
Nepal
Island Peak, or Imja Tse, stands at an altitude of 6,189 meters in the heart of the Himalayas. It's a favored choice for mountaineers who have set their sights on higher summits but want to hone their skills on a challenging yet accessible peak. The approach to Island Peak is not just about the climb itself but offers a captivating journey through the Khumbu region, providing a taste of the majestic landscapes and the unique culture of Nepal. The ascent involves a combination of glacier travel, a steep headwall, and a thrilling summit ridge that demands technical ability and acclimatization.
The climb of Island Peak is often underestimated due to its relatively modest elevation compared to other Himalayan giants. However, it presents its own set of challenges. The route is typically approached via the south ridge, starting with a trek to the base camp. As you progress, you'll encounter crevassed glaciers and a headwall that requires the use of fixed ropes. The final push to the summit involves a narrow ridge that rewards climbers with breathtaking views of Lhotse, Makalu, and Baruntse. Conditions can be harsh, with unpredictable weather and extreme cold at higher altitudes, so preparation and experience are key.
Island Peak is particularly popular due to its accessibility and the opportunity it provides for mountaineers to test their skills. While it's achievable for those with some climbing experience, the peak should not be taken lightly. It's often used as a precursor to more demanding expeditions, offering a realistic taste of what higher altitude climbs entail. The mountain sees a fair number of guided expeditions, with 57 guides offering climbs, ensuring that those seeking support can find experienced partners to accompany them on their journey.
Table of contents
Route
- 3,349 m gain over 18 days
- Starting and ending in Lukla
- approach: walk in
Walk in
- +2,500 m over a 65 km approach
- 7 - 10 days in
- 2 - 4 days out
Climb
- +1,300 m over 2 days.
- 1 high camp. The typical route for Island Peak does not involve any high camps beyond the base camp.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
When to go
- March to May
- September to November
Permits
- 3 permits are needed
- costing around $109 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
These are pictures taken while climbing Island peak. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Island peak, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Island peak History
Climbing history of Island peak
The history of Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse, is deeply intertwined with the rich cultural tapestry of the Khumbu region, home to the Sherpa people. The Sherpa community has inhabited this area for centuries, bringing with them a unique blend of Tibetan Buddhist traditions and a profound respect for the mountains.
Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British expedition team that included members of the legendary Mount Everest expedition led by John Hunt. This was the same expedition that saw Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay make the first successful ascent of Everest. The ascent of Island Peak provided essential acclimatization and training for the team before attempting the summit of Everest.
Since then, Island Peak has become a popular destination for climbers seeking to test their skills at high altitude and experience the stunning Himalayan landscape. Its history of early ascents and connection to the Everest expeditions adds a layer of historical significance to its allure.
Island Peak Base Camp
High Camp
Island Peak Summit
Island peak weather
How is the weather on Island peak, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Island peak is in these months:
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
Island peak Gear Packing List
What To Take to climb Island peak
- Clothing:
- Base layers (long underwear tops and bottoms)
- Insulated mid-layer (fleece or down jacket)
- Outer layer (waterproof and breathable jacket and pants)
- Warm hat
- Gloves (one thin pair and one thick pair)
- Hiking boots
- Gaiters (for keeping snow out of your boots)
- Socks (wool or synthetic, bring several pairs)
- Sunglasses (with UV protection)
- Camping gear:
- Sleeping bag (rated to at least -10°C)
- Sleeping pad (insulated)
- Tent (with rainfly and ground cloth)
- Cooking stove (with fuel)
- Cooking pot and utensils
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Headlamp (with extra batteries)
- Lighter or matches (for starting stove and campfire)
- Trash bags (for carrying out all waste)
- Climbing gear:
- Crampons (with anti-balling plates)
- Ice axe (with leash)
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Carabiners (several locking and non-locking)
- Prusik cords (two or three lengths of 6mm cord)
- Ascender or Jumar (for fixed line climbing)
- Rappel device (ATC or Figure 8)
- Mountaineering boots (with rigid sole and compatible with crampons)
- Warm gloves (for climbing)
- Personal items:
- Sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher)
- Lip balm (with SPF)
- Insect repellent
- Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.)
- Personal medication (if needed)
- Cash (for tipping guides and porters)
- Passport and permits
- Camera or phone (with extra battery or portable charger)
Island peak Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Tea houses and lodges are available along the route for overnight stays. Accommodations are basic with shared rooms and common toilets. Expect to pay between $5-10 per night for a room.Food
Food is available on the trek, with tea houses offering a range of dishes including local Nepalese food, continental dishes, and snacks. Expect to pay between $3-8 for a meal.Guides
Guides are available and can be hired in Kathmandu or in the town of Lukla. They typically cost between $20-30 per day depending on their experience and qualifications.Porters
Porters are also available for hire along the route. They can carry up to 30 kg of luggage and typically cost between $15-25 per day depending on the weight of your belongings.Medical facilities
Basic medical services are available along the route at some of the tea houses and lodges. However, it is recommended that you bring a basic first-aid kit with you, and be prepared for any emergencies by bringing appropriate medication and supplies with you.Gear rental
Equipment rental is available in Kathmandu, including tents, sleeping bags, and climbing gear. Some tea houses may also rent out gear, but it is recommended that you bring your own equipment. Make sure you have proper clothing, boots, and equipment for cold weather and high-altitude trekking.Transport
The trek starts and ends in Lukla, which can be reached by a 30-minute flight from Kathmandu. Private cars and taxis are also available for hire in Kathmandu to get to the airport. During the trek, walking is the main mode of transportation.Internet / Phone
Connectivity can be limited along the route, especially at higher altitudes. Some tea houses may offer wifi for a fee, but it is generally slow and unreliable. It is recommended that you bring a satellite phone or a personal locator beacon in case of emergencies.ATMs
There are no ATMs along the trekking route, so it is recommended that you bring enough cash with you to cover your expenses.Shops
There are shops along the route selling snacks, drinks, and basic trekking supplies. However, prices can be higher than in Kathmandu, so it is recommended that you bring everything you need with you.Island peak permits
What permits are needed for climbing Island peak
1. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
- $25 (~3,000 in the local currency)
- Allows entry into Sagarmatha National Park.
- Can be obtained in advance or at the entrance gate of the park.
2. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
- $17 (~2,000 in the local currency)
- Permit to enter Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality.
- Can be obtained in advance or in Lukla.
3. Island Peak Climbing Permit
- $67 (~8,000 in the local currency)
- Permit to climb Island Peak.
- Can be obtained through a licensed trekking agency in Kathmandu or in Chukhung.
Island peak access - getting there
How to get to Island peak
- Flight: The fastest and most convenient way to get to the start of the Island Peak climb is to take a flight to Lukla from Kathmandu, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb.
- Overland: It is possible to take a bus or private vehicle from Kathmandu to Jiri, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb. This option is more time-consuming but allows for a scenic overland journey.
- Helicopter: For those who want to save time and enjoy a unique experience, it is possible to take a helicopter from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a trek to the starting point of the climb. This option is more expensive but offers stunning aerial views of the region.
- Return: At the end of the Island Peak climb, trekkers can retrace their steps back to the starting point, or alternatively, they can continue their trek to other destinations in the region, such as Gokyo Lakes or Everest Base Camp.
These are variations on the typical route. Which could be added on; either part way along or at the start / end to extend the trek.
Ama Dablam Base Camp
add 1 extra day
Island peak questions
What to know about climbing Island peak
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Island peak climb.
