Climbing Mera peak
Nepal
Mera Peak, standing proudly in the Himalayas of Nepal, is a popular destination for those seeking to tackle a high-altitude summit. At an elevation of around 6,476 meters (21,247 feet), it is often considered one of the more accessible peaks above 6,000 meters, offering a challenging yet rewarding climb. The ascent primarily involves non-technical terrain, characterized by snow slopes and straightforward glacier travel. However, the altitude and the weather conditions can present significant hurdles, demanding a solid level of acclimatization and fitness from any climber.
The typical approach to Mera Peak begins with a trek through the lush and scenic Hinku Valley, which not only serves as a picturesque introduction to the journey but also provides valuable acclimatization. The climb itself is often tackled via the Mera La pass, leading to a high camp positioned near the Mera Glacier. From there, the summit push involves navigating crevassed terrain and dealing with potentially freezing temperatures and strong winds. The final ascent is steep, and although it doesn't require technical climbing skills, the thin air at such elevations is a test of endurance and mental fortitude.
Reaching the summit of Mera Peak offers a stunning panorama, with views of some of the world's highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. This landscape is a testament to the majestic beauty of the Himalayas and a fitting reward for the effort involved in the climb. The mountain sees a considerable number of climbers each year, with around 56 guides offering expeditions to its summit, making it a well-organized yet challenging endeavor for any mountaineer looking to push their limits.
Table of contents
Route
- 3,616 m gain over 20 days
- Starting and ending in Lukla
- approach: fly, drive, walk in
Walk in
- +2,460 m over a 64 km approach
- 8 - 10 days in
- 3 - 5 days out
Climb
- +1,686 m over 3 days.
- 2 high camps. Both high camps are typically used.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
When to go
- April and May
- October and November
Permits
- 3 permits are needed
- costing around $235 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
These are pictures taken while climbing Mera peak. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Mera peak, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Mera peak History
Climbing history of Mera peak
The history of Mera Peak, nestled in the Solu-Khumbu region of Nepal, is a tapestry of early exploration and cultural richness. The first successful summit of Mera Peak was achieved in 1953 by a British team led by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing. This ascent paved the way for future climbers and marked a significant moment in the history of Himalayan exploration.
The area surrounding Mera Peak is predominantly inhabited by the Sherpa people, known for their mountaineering skills and unique culture. Their deep connection with the mountains has supported countless expeditions, making the Sherpa community integral to the history and allure of this region.
Mera Peak Base Camp
High Camp
Mera Peak Summit
Mera peak weather
How is the weather on Mera peak, and when is the best time to go.
Mera Peak is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, located in the Solu Khumbu region of the Himalayas. It offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga. The climb is generally considered to be a non-technical ascent, but it does require a high level of fitness and altitude experience.
The best time to climb Mera Peak is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons. During these months, the weather is generally dry and stable, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. The summer monsoon season (June to August) and winter months (December to February) can bring heavy snowfall and difficult climbing conditions, making them less favorable for climbing.
The best time to climb Mera peak is in these months:
- Apr
- May
- Oct
- Nov
Mera peak Gear Packing List
What To Take to climb Mera peak
- Clothing:
- Base layer tops and bottoms
- Fleece or soft-shell jacket
- Insulated jacket or down jacket
- Waterproof and breathable jacket and pants
- Gloves or mittens (waterproof and insulated)
- Warm hat and sun hat
- Warm and comfortable socks (wool or synthetic)
- Good quality trekking boots
- Gaiters (optional)
- Climbing Equipment:
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Carabiners and quickdraws
- Prusik cords
- Ascender or Jumar
- Rope (optional)
- Accessories:
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
- Lip balm with SPF protection
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- Trekking poles
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Water purification tablets or filter
- Personal first aid kit (including altitude sickness medication)
- Camera with extra batteries and memory cards
- Binoculars (optional)
- Map and compass or GPS (optional)
- Energy bars, snacks and chocolates
- Cigarette lighter or matches
- Backpack (50-70 liters)
- Plastic bags (to keep your gear dry)
- Trekking towel
- Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.)
Mera peak Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
There are several accommodation options available on the Mera Peak route, including teahouses and camping. Teahouses are traditional lodges that provide basic facilities such as a bed and meals, while camping involves setting up tents in designated camping areas.Food
Food is available on the Mera Peak route, with teahouses and camping companies offering meals such as dal bhat (rice, lentil soup, and vegetables) and noodle soup. Some teahouses may also offer Western-style dishes for an additional cost.Guides
Guides are highly recommended for the Mera Peak climb, as the route can be challenging and involves technical climbing. The cost of a guide varies depending on the trekking company and the services offered, but generally ranges from $25 to $40 per day. It's important to choose a guide with experience on the Mera Peak route and good reviews.Porters
Porters are also available for hire on the Mera Peak route, with prices ranging from $15 to $20 per day depending on the trekking company and the weight of your gear. Hiring a porter can greatly reduce the physical strain of carrying a heavy backpack, allowing you to focus on the climb.Medical facilities
There are no medical facilities on the Mera Peak route, so it's important to bring a basic first aid kit and any necessary medications. In case of a serious medical emergency, evacuation by helicopter may be required, which can be costly and time-consuming.Gear rental
Gear rental is available for the Mera Peak climb, with trekking companies offering equipment such as climbing harnesses, ice axes, crampons, and helmets for a daily fee. It's important to bring your own well-fitting and broken-in boots, as well as warm and waterproof clothing suitable for the harsh mountain environment.Transport
Transport options to reach the Mera Peak route include flights from Kathmandu to Lukla or Phaplu, followed by a several day trek to the start of the climb. There are also buses and jeeps available for hire from Kathmandu to the roadhead at Jiri, from where the trek to the start of the climb takes around 10 days. During the trek, optional transportation includes the use of yaks or porters to carry gear.Internet / Phone
Connectivity on the Mera Peak route is limited, with no internet or wifi available on the trek. Mobile phone signal is also limited and unreliable, so it's important to bring a satellite phone or a personal locator beacon for emergencies.ATMs
There are no ATMs on the Mera Peak route, so it's important to bring enough cash to cover all expenses, including food, accommodation, and guide and porter fees.Shops
There are a few small shops and stalls selling basic supplies such as snacks, batteries, and toiletries along the Mera Peak route, but it's important to bring all necessary gear and supplies from Kathmandu or another larger town.Mera peak permits
What permits are needed for climbing Mera peak
1. Sagarmatha National Park Permit
- $30 (~3,395 in the local currency)
- Permit to enter and trek in Sagarmatha National Park
- Can be obtained at the entrance of the park in Monjo or in advance in Kathmandu
2. Makalu Barun National Park Permit
- $30 (~3,395 in the local currency)
- Permit to enter and trek in Makalu Barun National Park
- Can be obtained in advance in Kathmandu
3. Mera Peak Climbing Permit
- $175 (~20,000 in the local currency)
- Permit to climb Mera Peak
- Can be obtained in advance through a trekking agency in Kathmandu
Mera peak access - getting there
How to get to Mera peak
- Flight: You can take a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla Airport, which takes about 35 minutes. From there, you will have to trek to the starting point of the Mera peak climb.
- Bus: From Kathmandu, you can take a bus to Jiri, which takes around 8-9 hours. From there, you can trek to Lukla and then the starting point of the climb.
- Private Jeep: You can hire a private jeep from Kathmandu to reach the starting point of the climb. This can be a more expensive option but is faster than taking a bus.
- Helicopter: You can also hire a helicopter to reach the starting point of the climb. This is the most expensive option but offers a fast and scenic way to reach the starting point.
Mera peak questions
What to know about climbing Mera peak
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Mera peak climb.
