Climbing Chulu east
Nepal
Chulu East is a noteworthy peak in the Annapurna region of Nepal, standing at an impressive height of approximately 6,584 meters. This mountain is a popular choice among mountaineers due to its challenging yet achievable routes, which offer an ideal balance for those looking to step up from trekking peaks to more demanding climbs. The ascent typically begins from the village of Manang, providing a gradual acclimatization as you progress towards the higher altitudes. The initial approach involves navigating through diverse terrain, ranging from lush forests to rocky outcrops, setting the stage for the more technical sections ahead.
The climb itself is characterized by a mixture of rock and ice, with some sections requiring proficiency in technical skills. The north-east ridge is the usual route taken by climbers, which demands careful planning and execution. The route involves negotiating snow slopes and a glacier, where crevasse navigation becomes crucial. As you climb higher, the thinner air and colder temperatures present additional challenges, but the rewards of standing atop Chulu East are immense. The panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges are a testament to the effort put into the climb, offering a unique perspective of this part of the Himalayas.
Weather and conditions play a significant role in the success of the climb, with the ideal times being the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. These periods offer relatively stable weather, though sudden changes can still occur, requiring climbers to be adaptable and prepared. It's important to have a good understanding of the conditions and be ready for potential avalanche risks and rapid weather changes. There are currently 45 guides that offer expeditions up Chulu East, providing ample options for those seeking organized support for their ascent.
Table of contents
Route
- 5,669 m gain over 20 days
- Starting and ending in Besisahar
- approach: walk in
Walk in
- +2,300 m over a 45 km approach
- 4 - 6 days in
- 3 - 5 days out
Climb
- +1,470 m over 3 days.
- 1 high camp. There is one high camp at around 5,050m, which is typically used.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
Cost
- $1,000 solo
When to go
- April and May
- September and October
Permits
- 2 permits are needed
- costing around $102 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
These are pictures taken while climbing Chulu east. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Chulu east, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Chulu east History
Climbing history of Chulu east
The history of Chulu East is deeply intertwined with the broader history of the Manang region in Nepal. This area has been inhabited for centuries by the Gurung people, known for their vibrant culture and unique traditions.
The first recorded ascent of Chulu East was in 1955 by a German expedition team. This early summit attempt paved the way for future climbers, establishing the mountain as a notable objective for mountaineers in the Annapurna region. Over the years, Chulu East has gained popularity among climbers seeking to experience the rugged beauty and challenge of the Nepalese Himalayas.
Chulu East Base Camp
High Camp
Chulu East Summit
Chulu east weather
How is the weather on Chulu east, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Chulu east is in these months:
- Apr
- May
- Sep
- Oct
Chulu east Gear Packing List
What To Take to climb Chulu east
-
Clothing:
- Warm base layers
- Insulated mid layers
- Waterproof outer layers
- Warm hat and gloves
- Sun hat and sunglasses
- Gaiters
- Hiking boots and spare laces
- Thick socks and spare pairs
-
Climbing gear:
- Helmet
- Climbing harness
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Climbing rope
- Carabiners and quickdraws
- Belay device
- Ascender/descender
-
Backpack:
- Mountaineering backpack (50-70L)
- Rain cover for backpack
-
Sleeping:
- Sleeping bag (rated to at least -20°C)
- Sleeping pad/mattress
-
Food and water:
- Energy bars and snacks
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Water purification tablets/filter
-
Navigation and communication:
- Topographic map and compass
- GPS device
- Headlamp and extra batteries
- Cell phone and charger
- Radio or satellite phone (optional)
-
Personal hygiene:
- Toilet paper and trowel
- Hand sanitizer and wet wipes
- Sunscreen and lip balm
- Insect repellent
- Personal medication and first aid kit
- Sunglasses and contact lenses/glasses (if needed)
-
Miscellaneous:
- Cash and credit card
- Multi-tool or knife
- Duct tape and repair kit
- Emergency blanket
- Whistle
- Portable charger and cables
- Camera and extra batteries
- Book or entertainment (optional)
Chulu east Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Teahouses and lodges are available along the route. These are basic but comfortable and provide meals and lodging facilities.Food
A variety of food options are available on the route, including local Nepali food and western cuisine. However, the availability of food items may vary with the altitude.Guides
Local guides are available for hire and are highly recommended due to their knowledge of the area and experience. The cost of hiring a guide can range from $25-$30 per day.Porters
Porters can also be hired to carry heavy equipment or luggage. The cost of hiring a porter can range from $20-$25 per day.Medical facilities
There are basic health clinics and pharmacies available in some of the villages along the route. However, it is recommended to carry a basic first aid kit and any necessary medications.Gear rental
Basic gear can be rented in Kathmandu, including sleeping bags, jackets, and boots. However, it is recommended to bring your own equipment, especially for climbing purposes. Additionally, it is essential to carry crampons and ice axes during the climbing season (March - May and September - November).Transport
Private jeeps and buses are available from Kathmandu to Besishahar. From there, local transportation can be used to reach the starting point of the trek. Helicopter services are also available for emergencies or to reach remote areas.Internet / Phone
Connectivity can be limited on the trek, with intermittent phone signal available in some areas. Wi-Fi is available in some teahouses, but it may not be reliable. It is recommended to carry a local SIM card and a portable charger.ATMs
ATMs are not available on the route, and it is recommended to carry enough cash.Shops
Small shops are available in some of the villages along the route, selling basic items such as snacks, toiletries, and souvenirs.Chulu east permits
What permits are needed for climbing Chulu east
1. Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
- $23.5 (~3,000 in the local currency)
- A permit required for entering the Annapurna Conservation Area.
- Can be obtained in Kathmandu, Pokhara, or Besisahar.
2. Chulu East Peak Permit
- $78.5 (~10,000 in the local currency)
- A permit required for climbing Chulu East Peak.
- Can be obtained through a registered trekking agency in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Chulu east access - getting there
How to get to Chulu east
- Private Car/Jeep: The most convenient and comfortable way to get to the start of the Chulu East climb is by hiring a private car or jeep, which can be arranged in advance.
- Public Bus: Public buses are available from Kathmandu to Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. From there, you will need to hire a jeep or walk to Chame, where the trek officially starts.
- Shared Jeep: Shared jeeps can be found in Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. They are a more affordable option than private cars, but can be crowded and uncomfortable.
- Flight: Flights are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Jomsom, both of which are near the Annapurna region. From there, you can hire a jeep or take a bus to Besishahar and then proceed to Chame.
- Helicopter: Helicopter rides are available from Kathmandu to Chame, which is the starting point for the trek. However, they are expensive and not a practical option for most trekkers.
These are variations on the typical route. Which could be added on; either part way along or at the start / end to extend the trek.
Mesokanto Pass
add 4 - 6 extra days
Chulu east questions
What to know about climbing Chulu east
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Chulu east climb.
