Makalu stands as a formidable challenge for any experienced mountaineer. As the fifth highest mountain in the world, it reaches an impressive height of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) in the Mahalangur Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China. Its striking pyramid shape is as intimidating as it is beautiful, with four sharp ridges that define its profile. The ascent is no simple task, requiring technical skill and a high degree of acclimatization. The predominant route is the Southeast Ridge, which tests your ability to navigate steep ice and snow, not to mention the notorious Makalu La, a high pass that presents its own unique challenges.

The weather conditions on Makalu can be harsh and unpredictable. High winds and heavy snowfall are common, adding an extra layer of difficulty to an already demanding climb. The weather windows are typically short, so precision in timing your summit push is crucial. The climb itself demands a thorough understanding of high-altitude mountaineering techniques. Expect long sections of exposed ridge lines, technical ice climbing, and the need for precise rope work. The combination of technical difficulty and unpredictable conditions makes Makalu a serious undertaking that should not be underestimated.

Despite its challenges, Makalu offers a rewarding experience for those who are well-prepared and determined. The mountain has a reputation for its stunning vistas, with views of Everest and Lhotse on clear days. The feeling of isolation is profound, as the area sees fewer climbers than other peaks in the region. This solitude is part of what makes a Makalu ascent so appealing to seasoned climbers. Currently, there are 35 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent peak, each bringing their expertise to help you tackle one of the most challenging climbs in the Himalayas.

Makalu

<ul>
 <li>Private Car/Jeep: The most convenient and comfortable way to get to the start of the Chulu East climb is by hiring a private car or jeep, which can be arranged in advance.</li>
 <li>Public Bus: Public buses are available from Kathmandu to Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. From there, you will need to hire a jeep or walk to Chame, where the trek officially starts.</li>
 <li>Shared Jeep: Shared jeeps can be found in Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. They are a more affordable option than private cars, but can be crowded and uncomfortable.</li>
 <li>Flight: Flights are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Jomsom, both of which are near the Annapurna region. From there, you can hire a jeep or take a bus to Besishahar and then proceed to Chame.</li>
 <li>Helicopter: Helicopter rides are available from Kathmandu to Chame, which is the starting point for the trek. However, they are expensive and not a practical option for most trekkers.</li>
</ul>

Accommodation on the Chulu east route varies from basic teahouses to more luxurious lodges. Most places offer shared rooms with shared bathrooms, but private rooms may also be available at a higher cost. Prices tend to increase with altitude and remoteness of the location.
<ul>
 <li>
 Teahouses: Basic and affordable, teahouses typically offer shared rooms with basic amenities like a bed and a blanket. Shared bathrooms are usually available. Prices range from about $5-15 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Lodges: More comfortable and spacious, lodges often offer private rooms with attached bathrooms. They may also offer amenities like hot showers and wifi. Prices range from about $20-50 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Camping: For those who prefer to bring their own accommodation, camping is an option on the Chulu east route. Campsites are limited, and you may need to carry your own equipment. Prices range from about $5-10 per night for camping fees.
 </li>
</ul>

Chulu East is a noteworthy peak in the Annapurna region of Nepal, standing at an impressive height of approximately 6,584 meters. This mountain is a popular choice among mountaineers due to its challenging yet achievable routes, which offer an ideal balance for those looking to step up from trekking peaks to more demanding climbs. The ascent typically begins from the village of Manang, providing a gradual acclimatization as you progress towards the higher altitudes. The initial approach involves navigating through diverse terrain, ranging from lush forests to rocky outcrops, setting the stage for the more technical sections ahead.

The climb itself is characterized by a mixture of rock and ice, with some sections requiring proficiency in technical skills. The north-east ridge is the usual route taken by climbers, which demands careful planning and execution. The route involves negotiating snow slopes and a glacier, where crevasse navigation becomes crucial. As you climb higher, the thinner air and colder temperatures present additional challenges, but the rewards of standing atop Chulu East are immense. The panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges are a testament to the effort put into the climb, offering a unique perspective of this part of the Himalayas.

Weather and conditions play a significant role in the success of the climb, with the ideal times being the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. These periods offer relatively stable weather, though sudden changes can still occur, requiring climbers to be adaptable and prepared. It's important to have a good understanding of the conditions and be ready for potential avalanche risks and rapid weather changes. There are currently 45 guides that offer expeditions up Chulu East, providing ample options for those seeking organized support for their ascent.

<ul>
 <li>
 Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Warm base layers</li>
 <li>Insulated mid layers</li>
 <li>Waterproof outer layers</li>
 <li>Warm hat and gloves</li>
 <li>Sun hat and sunglasses</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking boots and spare laces</li>
 <li>Thick socks and spare pairs</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Climbing gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners and quickdraws</li>
 <li>Belay device</li>
 <li>Ascender/descender</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Backpack:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack (50-70L)</li>
 <li>Rain cover for backpack</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Sleeping:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated to at least -20°C)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad/mattress</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Food and water:
 <ul>
 <li>Energy bars and snacks</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets/filter</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Navigation and communication:
 <ul>
 <li>Topographic map and compass</li>
 <li>GPS device</li>
 <li>Headlamp and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Cell phone and charger</li>
 <li>Radio or satellite phone (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Personal hygiene:
 <ul>
 <li>Toilet paper and trowel</li>
 <li>Hand sanitizer and wet wipes</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Insect repellent</li>
 <li>Personal medication and first aid kit</li>
 <li>Sunglasses and contact lenses/glasses (if needed)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Cash and credit card</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Duct tape and repair kit</li>
 <li>Emergency blanket</li>
 <li>Whistle</li>
 <li>Portable charger and cables</li>
 <li>Camera and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Book or entertainment (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Challenging ascent with moderate technical difficulties.

The starting point of the climb, situated at an altitude of 5360 meters. It serves as a central location for acclimatization and preparation.

Chulu East Base Camp

A campsite located at an elevation of 5530 meters, providing a crucial stop for rest and acclimatization before the summit push.

High Camp

The summit of Chulu East, reaching an elevation of 6584 meters. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

Chulu East Summit

The climbing itinerary for Chulu East includes a base camp at 5360 meters, a high camp at 5530 meters, and the summit at 6584 meters. This challenging ascent requires technical climbing skills and offers experienced mountaineers an exhilarating adventure in the Annapurna region.

Chulu east

For climbing Chulu East, you will need to obtain several permits.

A permit required for entering the Annapurna Conservation Area.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)

A permit required for climbing Chulu East Peak.

Chulu East Peak Permit

Pisang

Besisahar

Ngadi

Jagat

Dharapani

Chame

Yak Kharka

Base camp

Muktinath

Thorong Phedi

Thorong La pass

Jomsom

Mesokanto Pass

The Chulu East trek is a popular trekking route that offers a variety of climbing and trekking services. The route passes through several villages and remote areas, and there are several accommodation options, food choices, and gear services available.

A popular variation that includes crossing the high and scenic Mesokanto La pass to reach the remote village of Naar Phu.

The best time to climb Chulu East is from September to November, when the weather is generally dry and stable. The winter months from December to February can be very cold and snowy, while the summer months from June to August can be wet due to the monsoon season.

Start walking in from either Koto or Besisahar (for a bit more acclimitization).
<ul>
 <li>Arrival:
 <ul>
 <li>Fly to Kathmandu, Nepal</li>
 <li>Take an international flight to Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Domestic Flight:
 <ul>
 <li>Take a domestic flight to Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, take a domestic flight to Besisahar, a town in the Lamjung District. This flight saves time and provides a convenient access point for the Himlung Himal route.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Overland Travel:
 <ul>
 <li>Drive to Koto via Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, travel by road to Besisahar, and then continue the journey to Koto, the starting point for the Himlung Himal climb. This overland option allows you to experience the scenic beauty of the region.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Himlung Himal, located in the Nepal section of the Himalayas, stands tall at an impressive 7,126 meters. This peak, though less frequented than its famed neighbors like Annapurna or Manaslu, offers a unique and rewarding climb for those seeking a less commercialized adventure. The ascent is mostly non-technical, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's a walk in the park. The climb demands respect, given its altitude and the potential for unpredictable weather conditions. Seasoned climbers will appreciate the relatively untouched nature of the route, which provides a sense of solitude and connection to the raw beauty of the mountains.

Most expeditions to Himlung Himal begin at the village of Phu, following a scenic trek that serves as a perfect acclimatization period. The approach is a harmonious blend of cultural immersion and wilderness trekking, setting the stage for the challenges ahead. The mountain itself offers a series of camps before the final push to the summit, which is usually attempted from Camp 3. Expect long days on the ice and snow, with crevasse navigation and steep slopes that test your stamina and resolve. The rewards are equally great, with panoramic views at the summit that few have had the privilege to witness.

Climbing Himlung Himal is a commitment that requires careful planning and a willingness to embrace the unknown. The conditions can range from straightforward ice and snow ascents to more challenging mixed terrain, depending on the season and weather patterns. It's an ideal expedition for experienced climbers looking to push their limits in a less crowded environment. While the mountain is gaining popularity, it still retains an air of exclusivity. There are currently 46 guides offering expeditions to this remarkable peak, providing ample opportunity for those ready to undertake this adventure.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof jacket</li>
 <li>Down or synthetic sleeping bag</li>
 <li>Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Fleece or softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Gloves (inner and outer)</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Sun hat or cap</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Camp shoes or sandals</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Trekking poles</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Rappel device</li>
 <li>Headlamp with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Sunglasses with UV protection</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Map and compass</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Toiletries</li>
 <li>Trekking towel</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Food and Nutrition:
 <ul>
 <li>High-energy snacks</li>
 <li>Dehydrated meals</li>
 <li>Energy gels or bars</li>
 <li>Electrolyte powder</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Camera with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Portable charger</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Repair kit (for clothing and equipment)</li>
 <li>Duct tape</li>
 <li>Ziplock bags (for waterproofing)</li>
 <li>Cash and identification</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Permits and necessary paperwork</li>
 <li>Emergency contact information</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

The starting point of the climb, located at an altitude of 4850 meters.

Base Camp

A campsite situated at 5600 meters above sea level.

Camp 1

An intermediate campsite positioned at 6200 meters.

Camp 2

A high camp established at 6700 meters on the mountain.

Camp 3

The majestic summit of Himlung Himal, standing at an elevation of 7126 meters.

Summit

The climbing itinerary for Himlung Himal includes stops at Base Camp (4850m), Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (6200m), Camp 3 (6700m), and finally, the summit at 7126 meters.

Climbing Himlung Himal requires several permits to ensure compliance and support local conservation efforts. The permits cover access to restricted areas and provide necessary support during the climb.

Allows entry into the restricted areas along the Himlung Himal route.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP)

Authorizes climbing Himlung Himal and includes necessary support from the local authorities.

Climbing Permit

Allows entry into the national park where Himlung Himal is located.

National Park Entry Permit

The Himlung Himal route offers basic services catering to climbers and trekkers. While the facilities may be more limited compared to popular routes, there are accommodation options, guides, porters, and some basic medical services available. It's important to plan and prepare accordingly to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the route.

Include a side trip to climb Pisang Peak, a popular trekking peak near Himlung Himal, providing an additional mountaineering challenge and acclimitization for the main climb

Pisang Peak Climb

The weather conditions on Himlung Himal vary throughout the year. The most popular climbing months are April, May, and October, which generally offer more favorable weather conditions. The mountain experiences colder temperatures and higher rainfall during the winter and monsoon seasons. It is crucial to plan your climb during the optimal months to ensure safer and more enjoyable climbing conditions.

Himlung Himal

Cho Oyu, standing prominently at 8,188 meters, is the sixth highest mountain in the world and a favored destination for those seeking to step into the world of 8,000 meter peaks. Nestled in the Himalayas of Nepal, it offers a comparatively less technical ascent than its towering neighbors, making it an attractive option for experienced climbers looking to test themselves at high altitude. The standard route through the northwest face is a classic choice, known for its manageable gradients and relatively straightforward navigation, though the challenges of altitude should never be underestimated.

The climb typically involves establishing multiple camps above the base, with C1 and C2 being critical points for acclimatization. The route is characterized by a mix of snow slopes and occasional short technical sections, demanding proficiency in crampon and ice axe technique. Weather conditions can be harsh, with strong winds and low temperatures adding to the complexity of the ascent. As with any Himalayan expedition, timing your summit push is crucial to avoid the notorious jet stream winds that can sweep across the summit, turning a challenging ascent into a formidable one.

For those considering an ascent of Cho Oyu, it's worth noting that there are currently 31 guides offering organized expeditions to this peak. Their experience can be invaluable in navigating the logistical and environmental challenges of the region. Whether you're seeking to build experience for more technical climbs or aiming to add another 8,000-meter summit to your achievements, Cho Oyu presents a rewarding challenge for seasoned mountaineers.

	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks	5 / 5	4
TripAdvisor	5 / 5	3
Google	5 / 5	1

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Makalu
$25,000

Chulu east
$4,100

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$8,050

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$26,000

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