Climbing Makalu
Nepal
Makalu stands as a formidable challenge for any experienced mountaineer. As the fifth highest mountain in the world, it reaches an impressive height of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) in the Mahalangur Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China. Its striking pyramid shape is as intimidating as it is beautiful, with four sharp ridges that define its profile. The ascent is no simple task, requiring technical skill and a high degree of acclimatization. The predominant route is the Southeast Ridge, which tests your ability to navigate steep ice and snow, not to mention the notorious Makalu La, a high pass that presents its own unique challenges.
The weather conditions on Makalu can be harsh and unpredictable. High winds and heavy snowfall are common, adding an extra layer of difficulty to an already demanding climb. The weather windows are typically short, so precision in timing your summit push is crucial. The climb itself demands a thorough understanding of high-altitude mountaineering techniques. Expect long sections of exposed ridge lines, technical ice climbing, and the need for precise rope work. The combination of technical difficulty and unpredictable conditions makes Makalu a serious undertaking that should not be underestimated.
Despite its challenges, Makalu offers a rewarding experience for those who are well-prepared and determined. The mountain has a reputation for its stunning vistas, with views of Everest and Lhotse on clear days. The feeling of isolation is profound, as the area sees fewer climbers than other peaks in the region. This solitude is part of what makes a Makalu ascent so appealing to seasoned climbers. Currently, there are 35 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent peak, each bringing their expertise to help you tackle one of the most challenging climbs in the Himalayas.
Difficulty
- TD: Very hard (alpine grade 5)
When to go
- April and May
- October
These are pictures taken while climbing Makalu. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Makalu, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Makalu History
Climbing history of Makalu
The history of Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world, is marked by a series of challenging summit attempts, reflecting the formidable conditions that climbers face on its steep slopes. The first serious attempt to climb Makalu was made by an American team in 1954, led by Dr. William Siri. They reached up to 7,100 meters but had to turn back due to bad weather and logistical challenges. The following year, a New Zealand team led by Sir Edmund Hillary also attempted the peak but was unsuccessful.
It wasn't until May 15, 1955, that Makalu was successfully summited by a French expedition led by Jean Franco. The team made a remarkable achievement by having nine members reach the summit over the course of several days, with Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy being the first to stand atop the peak. This expedition was notable not only for its success but also for its spirit of teamwork and the shared joy of reaching the summit.
Makalu lies in the heart of the Himalayas, within the Makalu-Barun Valley, a region known for its unique biodiversity and cultural heritage. The area is home to various ethnic groups, including the Sherpa people, who have lived in the high valleys for generations, often serving as guides and porters for mountaineering expeditions.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Makalu climb.
