Climbing Dhaulagiri
Nepal
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, stands as the seventh highest mountain in the world, towering at an impressive 8,167 meters. Known for its remarkable isolation, Dhaulagiri is a formidable challenge even for seasoned climbers. The routes up this peak are steep and demand technical proficiency, with the Northeast Ridge and the Southeast Ridge being the most renowned among mountaineers. The mountain's weather conditions are notoriously unpredictable, with treacherous winds and heavy snowfall often complicating ascents. The climb requires a high level of endurance and mental fortitude, as the altitude and terrain test every climber's limits.
One of the most striking features of Dhaulagiri is its massive south face, which presents an imposing challenge even to the most experienced climbers. The glacial landscapes and snowfields can be both mesmerizing and perilous, demanding precise navigation skills. Avalanches are a constant concern, and the ability to assess risk and make swift decisions is crucial. The mountain is often less crowded than other Himalayan giants, offering a more solitary and introspective climbing experience. Those who choose to tackle Dhaulagiri must be prepared for a remote expedition, where self-sufficiency and meticulous planning are key.
As you make your way up, the thin air and harsh conditions serve as a reminder of the mountain's unforgiving nature. The summit rewards climbers with breathtaking views of the Annapurna and the Kali Gandaki Gorge, underscoring the achievement of conquering such a challenging ascent. Dhaulagiri is a mountain that demands respect and careful preparation. There are 25 guides offering expeditions to this remote peak, but the climb itself is a testament to personal strength and resilience.
Difficulty
- D: Hard (alpine grade 4)
When to go
- April and May
- October
These are pictures taken while climbing Dhaulagiri. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Dhaulagiri, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Dhaulagiri History
Climbing history of Dhaulagiri
The history of Dhaulagiri is a testament to human resilience and exploration. The mountain, known as "White Mountain" due to its massive snow-capped peak, has been an object of fascination and challenge for mountaineers worldwide.
The first recorded attempts to summit Dhaulagiri began in the early 1950s. In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog made the first attempt but was diverted to Annapurna, leading to the first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak. The first serious attempt on Dhaulagiri itself was in 1953 by a Swiss expedition, though they were unable to reach the summit. Subsequent attempts in 1958 and 1959 also ended without success, primarily due to the mountain's challenging weather conditions and technical difficulties.
It wasn't until May 13, 1960, that Dhaulagiri was finally conquered. An international team consisting of Swiss, Austrian, and Nepali climbers successfully reached the summit. This expedition was notable for being one of the first to use a fixed-wing aircraft to support a Himalayan climb, an innovative approach at the time.
The surrounding region of Dhaulagiri is inhabited by diverse ethnic groups, including the Thakali and Gurung communities, known for their rich cultural traditions and hospitality. Their villages, nestled in the valleys below the towering peaks, offer a glimpse into the traditional lifestyles that have persisted in the shadow of Dhaulagiri for centuries.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Dhaulagiri climb.
