Climbing Cholatse
Nepal
Cholatse, located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, stands as a formidable challenge at an elevation of 6,440 meters. The mountain, also known as Jobo Lhaptshan, is part of the Mahalangur range in the Himalayas and offers a climb that is not for the faint-hearted. Its steep, icy facets and complex ridges require technical proficiency and a well-prepared team. The north face, in particular, is renowned for its demanding nature, with mixed climbing conditions that can test even seasoned alpinists. The mountain offers a rewarding ascent for those looking to push their limits on less-traveled paths.
The approach to Cholatse often starts from the village of Dzongla, providing an opportunity to acclimatize and appreciate the rugged beauty of the surrounding peaks. The climb itself involves navigating through intricate seracs, crevasses, and often unpredictable weather conditions. The west face presents a steep and icy ascent, demanding careful route finding and efficient use of technical gear. The summit push is usually undertaken in the early hours to take advantage of more stable snow conditions and to avoid afternoon avalanches, a common challenge in this region.
The remoteness and technical demands of Cholatse mean it remains less popular than some of its neighboring giants, but for those with the experience and determination, it offers a unique and exhilarating climb. While the mountain doesn’t see as many ascents as others in the area, it rewards climbers with stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Ama Dablam and Taboche. For those interested, there are approximately 20 guides offering expeditions to this majestic peak, providing support for those ready to take on the challenge.
Table of contents
Route
- 3,580 m gain over 18 days
- Starting and ending in Lukla
- approach: walk in, fly, drive
Walk in
- +2,540 m over a 65 km approach
- 8 - 10 days in
- 3 - 5 days out
Climb
- +1,040 m over 5 days.
- 2 high camps. Both camps are typically used, with Camp 1 being an acclimatization and rest point and Camp 2 being the launch point for the summit push.
Difficulty
- D: Hard (alpine grade 4)
- TD: Very hard (alpine grade 5)
When to go
- April and May
- September to November
Permits
- 2 permits are needed
- costing around $80 total
These are pictures taken while climbing Cholatse. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Cholatse, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Cholatse History
Climbing history of Cholatse
The history of Cholatse, a prominent peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal, is marked by a series of challenging climbing attempts and successes. This mountain, known for its steep faces and technical routes, was first successfully summited in 1982 by the team of Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, and Bill O'Connor. Their ascent via the southwest ridge was a significant achievement in the climbing community.
Earlier attempts to conquer Cholatse had been made, but the mountain's difficult terrain and unpredictable weather thwarted these initial efforts. The successful 1982 expedition paved the way for future climbers, establishing Cholatse as a coveted objective for mountaineers seeking a formidable challenge.
The region around Cholatse is home to the Sherpa people, known for their mountaineering skills and deep connection to the high Himalayas. Their cultural presence and support play a vital role in the expeditions that continue to explore this challenging peak.
Base Camp
Camp 1
Camp 2
Summit
Cholatse weather
How is the weather on Cholatse, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Cholatse is in these months:
- Apr
- May
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
Cholatse Gear Packing List
What To Take to climb Cholatse
- Clothing:
- Insulated jacket
- Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)
- Hiking pants
- Fleece or softshell jacket
- Waterproof and windproof jacket
- Waterproof and windproof pants
- Warm gloves
- Warm hat
- Sun hat or cap
- Hiking socks
- Gaiters
- Footwear:
- Hiking boots (sturdy and waterproof)
- Socks liners (to prevent blisters)
- Camp shoes or sandals
- Equipment:
- Backpack (40-50 liters)
- Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)
- Sleeping pad
- Trekking poles
- Climbing harness
- Carabiners and quickdraws
- Helmet
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Rope (if required)
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Sunscreen (high SPF)
- Lip balm
- First aid kit
- Personal medications
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Water purification tablets or filter
- Snacks and energy bars
- Map and compass
- Whistle
- Multi-tool or knife
- Duct tape
- Trash bags
- Personal Hygiene:
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Biodegradable soap
- Quick-dry towel
- Toilet paper
- Hand sanitizer
- Wet wipes
- Miscellaneous:
- Cash (local currency)
- Passport and permits
- Travel insurance documents
- Camera and extra batteries
- Portable charger
- Plug adapter
- Notebook and pen
- Books or entertainment
- Extra plastic bags (for waterproofing)
Cholatse Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Accommodation options on the Cholatse route typically include teahouses and lodges along the trekking trail, providing basic facilities such as beds and blankets.Food
Food is available on the route, with teahouses and lodges offering a variety of meals, including local and international cuisine. It is advisable to stick to freshly prepared and cooked meals to maintain hygiene and health.Guides
Experienced guides are available for hire on the Cholatse route. The cost of hiring a guide can vary depending on the duration and services provided. Guides can offer valuable expertise, local knowledge, and ensure safety during the climb.Porters
Porters can be hired to assist with carrying heavy equipment and gear during the Cholatse climb. Hiring porters can alleviate the physical burden on climbers, allowing them to focus on the ascent. The cost of hiring porters can depend on the duration and weight of the load.Medical facilities
There are limited medical facilities along the Cholatse route. It is advisable to carry a personal first aid kit and any necessary medications. In case of emergencies, helicopter evacuation services can be arranged if required.Gear rental
Gear rental services are available for certain equipment required for the Cholatse climb, such as crampons, ice axes, and climbing harnesses. However, climbers are recommended to bring their own personal gear, including clothing, boots, and backpacks, to ensure proper fit and comfort.Transport
Transportation options for reaching the starting point of the Cholatse route can include a combination of domestic flights to Lukla or a road journey to Phaplu. Additionally, during the trek, walkers can use local buses or private jeeps for short-distance transfers between different sections of the route.Internet / Phone
Connectivity along the Cholatse route is limited. While some teahouses may offer Wi-Fi services, it is unreliable and can be expensive. Mobile phone coverage can be intermittent, and it is advisable to carry a satellite phone or a local SIM card for emergency communication.ATMs
There are no ATMs on the Cholatse route itself. It is recommended to withdraw sufficient cash in Kathmandu or other major towns before starting the trek.Shops
Teahouses and lodges along the Cholatse route may have small shops where basic supplies such as snacks, drinks, batteries, and toiletries can be purchased. However, the availability of specific items may vary, and it is advisable to carry essential supplies from the start.Cholatse permits
What permits are needed for climbing Cholatse
1. Cholatse Climbing Permit
- $50 (~5,000 in the local currency)
- Required for climbing Cholatse; the fee varies based on the season.
- Available from the Nepal Mountaineering Association in Kathmandu; it's recommended to get it in advance.
2. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
- $30 (~3,000 in the local currency)
- Allows entry into Sagarmatha National Park, which covers the Everest region.
- Available at the park entrance or in Kathmandu; can be purchased upon arrival.
Cholatse access - getting there
How to get to Cholatse
Getting to Cholatse
The primary gateway to Cholatse and the Khumbu region is Lukla.
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By Air:
The most common and quickest way to get to Lukla is by taking a flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. This flight is approximately 30 minutes.
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By Foot:
For those seeking a longer trekking experience, it's possible to trek from Jiri to Lukla, which takes about 6-8 days. This route retraces the original route taken by early Everest expeditions.
From Cholatse
Most expeditions return to Lukla after summiting Cholatse, following the same route back.
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By Air:
Once back in Lukla, climbers typically fly back to Kathmandu from Tenzing-Hillary Airport.
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By Foot:
For those who trekked in from Jiri, they can choose to trek back the same way, enjoying the landscapes of the lower Khumbu region.
These are variations on the typical route. Which could be added on; either part way along or at the start / end to extend the trek.
Gokyo Lakes
add 2 extra days
Cho La Pass Crossing
add 1 extra day
Cholatse questions
What to know about climbing Cholatse
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
Cholatse Links
useful websites, Groups and communities
Groups / links with more info on the Cholatse route.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Cholatse climb.
