Climbing Ama Dablam
Nepal
Ama Dablam, located in Nepal, stands as a distinctive beacon for mountaineers seeking a challenging climb. Rising to an elevation of 6,812 meters, this peak is renowned not only for its aesthetic beauty but also for the technical challenges it presents. The southwest ridge, known as the normal route, offers an exhilarating climb with a mix of rock, ice, and snow. The expedition demands a high degree of skill, particularly in ice and mixed climbing, making it a sought-after ascent for experienced climbers. The name "Ama Dablam" translates to "Mother's Necklace," reflecting the hanging glacier that resembles a traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women. The climb is a testament to precision and perseverance, where each section presents its unique set of challenges.
As you ascend, you'll encounter the notorious Dablam, an overhanging ice cliff that tests even the most seasoned climbers. The exposure in this section is significant, demanding careful judgment and steady nerves. The route to the summit involves negotiating intricate seracs and traversing steep pitches. The views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the Himalayas that few get to witness firsthand. The high-altitude conditions can be harsh, with rapid weather changes that demand respect and readiness from all climbers. It’s a mountain that rewards meticulous preparation and the ability to adapt to the mountain's rhythm.
Despite its allure, Ama Dablam should not be underestimated. The mountain's popularity has grown, and with it, the number of expedition teams attempting to conquer its heights. Currently, there are 45 guides offering expeditions to Ama Dablam, providing ample opportunities for those ready to take on its challenges. Each ascent is a blend of strategy, skill, and determination, calling for a deep respect for the mountain's formidable presence.
Table of contents
Route
- 3,952 m gain over 30 days
- Starting and ending in Lukla
- approach: walk in
Walk in
- +2,242 m over a 36 km approach
- 4 - 6 days in
- 2 days out
Climb
- +2,242 m over 4 - 10 days.
- 4 high camps. typically just 2 or 3 high camps are used.
Difficulty
- TD: Very hard (alpine grade 5)
Cost
- $3,000 solo
When to go
- April and May
- October and November
Permits
- 3 permits are needed
- costing around $347 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
These are pictures taken while climbing Ama Dablam. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Ama Dablam, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Ama Dablam History
Climbing history of Ama Dablam
The history of Ama Dablam is deeply intertwined with the rich cultural heritage of the Sherpa people who inhabit the Khumbu region of Nepal. This area, located at the gateway to the Everest region, is known for its breathtaking landscapes and the deep spirituality of its people.
The first successful ascent of Ama Dablam was achieved on March 13, 1961, by a New Zealand and American team, led by Sir Edmund Hillary. The climbers, Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop, and Mike Ward, reached the summit via the Southwest Ridge. This route remains the most popular to this day, known for its challenging technical sections and spectacular views.
Before this successful ascent, there were earlier attempts, though specifics are not extensively documented. The mountain had caught the attention of climbers due to its striking beauty and prominent location, drawing several expeditions hoping to conquer its peak.
The Sherpas, who have lived in the shadows of these majestic peaks for centuries, regard Ama Dablam as a sacred mountain. The name "Ama Dablam" translates to "Mother's Necklace," reflecting the mountain's maternal appearance, with long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama), and a hanging glacier resembling a sacred pendant or necklace (dablam) worn by Sherpa women.
Base Camp
ABC
Camp 1
Camp 2
Camp 3
Ama Dablam Summit
Ama Dablam weather
How is the weather on Ama Dablam, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Ama Dablam is in these months:
- Apr
- May
- Oct
- Nov
Ama Dablam Gear Packing List
What To Take to climb Ama Dablam
- Clothing:
- Insulated jacket
- Hardshell jacket
- Softshell jacket
- Fleece jacket
- Base layer tops and bottoms
- Hiking pants
- Mountaineering pants
- Waterproof pants
- Down pants
- Mountaineering gloves
- Inner gloves
- Mountaineering boots
- Approach shoes
- Hiking socks
- Mountaineering socks
- Warm hat
- Balaclava
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Sunglasses
- Glacier glasses
- Climbing Gear:
- Mountaineering helmet
- Climbing harness
- Crampons
- Ice axe
- Ascender/Descender devices
- Carabiners
- Prusik cords
- Climbing slings
- Helmet light or headlamp
- Camping Equipment:
- Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)
- Sleeping pad
- Tent (check with your guide)
- Cooking stove and fuel
- Cooking utensils
- Food and snacks
- Water bottles or hydration system
- Water purification tablets or filter
- Toiletries (toilet paper, wet wipes, hand sanitizer)
- Sunscreen
- Lip balm with SPF
- Personal medications
- First aid kit
- Repair kit (sewing kit, duct tape)
- Miscellaneous:
- Money (Nepalese rupees)
- Passport and permits
- Travel insurance documents
- Camera and spare batteries / Phone and power bank
- Book or entertainment / Journal and pen
- Snacks and energy bars
- Trash bags
- Waterproof dry bags
Ama Dablam Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Teahouses and campsites are available on the route, although camping is more common for climbers.Food
Teahouses offer basic meals, with a limited selection. For climbers, most food will need to be brought with them.Guides
Guides are available for hire, and their rates depend on their experience and the services they provide. It's recommended to hire a guide for safety reasons.Porters
Porters are available for hire, and are often used by climbers to carry their equipment. Rates depend on the weight of the load and the distance to be covered.Medical facilities
There are no hospitals on the route, but some teahouses have basic first aid supplies. It's important to bring your own medication and medical kit.Gear rental
Some gear can be rented in Kathmandu or Namche Bazaar, but it's recommended to bring your own equipment. The nearest gear shop is in Namche Bazaar.Transport
Transportation to the start of the route in Lukla is by flight from Kathmandu. Helicopter services are also available. There is no other motorable road on the route.Internet / Phone
There is limited cell phone coverage on the route, but some teahouses offer wifi for a fee. It's recommended to bring a satellite phone or a communication device.ATMs
There are no ATMs on the route. It's recommended to bring enough cash to cover all expenses.Shops
There are a few shops on the route selling basic supplies, such as snacks, batteries, and toiletries.Ama Dablam permits
What permits are needed for climbing Ama Dablam
1. Sagarmatha National Park Permit
- $30
- Required for entry into Sagarmatha National Park
2. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
- $17
- Required for climbing peaks in the Khumbu region
3. Ama Dablam Climbing Permit
- $300
- Required for climbing Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam access - getting there
How to get to Ama Dablam
- By Air: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
- By Road: Drive from Kathmandu to Salleri or Phaplu and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
- By Helicopter: Take a helicopter from Kathmandu to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Ama Dablam questions
What to know about climbing Ama Dablam
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Ama Dablam climb.
