Start walking in from either Koto or Besisahar (for a bit more acclimitization).
<ul>
 <li>Arrival:
 <ul>
 <li>Fly to Kathmandu, Nepal</li>
 <li>Take an international flight to Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Domestic Flight:
 <ul>
 <li>Take a domestic flight to Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, take a domestic flight to Besisahar, a town in the Lamjung District. This flight saves time and provides a convenient access point for the Himlung Himal route.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Overland Travel:
 <ul>
 <li>Drive to Koto via Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, travel by road to Besisahar, and then continue the journey to Koto, the starting point for the Himlung Himal climb. This overland option allows you to experience the scenic beauty of the region.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Himlung Himal, located in the Nepal section of the Himalayas, stands tall at an impressive 7,126 meters. This peak, though less frequented than its famed neighbors like Annapurna or Manaslu, offers a unique and rewarding climb for those seeking a less commercialized adventure. The ascent is mostly non-technical, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's a walk in the park. The climb demands respect, given its altitude and the potential for unpredictable weather conditions. Seasoned climbers will appreciate the relatively untouched nature of the route, which provides a sense of solitude and connection to the raw beauty of the mountains.

Most expeditions to Himlung Himal begin at the village of Phu, following a scenic trek that serves as a perfect acclimatization period. The approach is a harmonious blend of cultural immersion and wilderness trekking, setting the stage for the challenges ahead. The mountain itself offers a series of camps before the final push to the summit, which is usually attempted from Camp 3. Expect long days on the ice and snow, with crevasse navigation and steep slopes that test your stamina and resolve. The rewards are equally great, with panoramic views at the summit that few have had the privilege to witness.

Climbing Himlung Himal is a commitment that requires careful planning and a willingness to embrace the unknown. The conditions can range from straightforward ice and snow ascents to more challenging mixed terrain, depending on the season and weather patterns. It's an ideal expedition for experienced climbers looking to push their limits in a less crowded environment. While the mountain is gaining popularity, it still retains an air of exclusivity. There are currently 46 guides offering expeditions to this remarkable peak, providing ample opportunity for those ready to undertake this adventure.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof jacket</li>
 <li>Down or synthetic sleeping bag</li>
 <li>Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Fleece or softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Gloves (inner and outer)</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Sun hat or cap</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Camp shoes or sandals</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Trekking poles</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Rappel device</li>
 <li>Headlamp with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Sunglasses with UV protection</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Map and compass</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Toiletries</li>
 <li>Trekking towel</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Food and Nutrition:
 <ul>
 <li>High-energy snacks</li>
 <li>Dehydrated meals</li>
 <li>Energy gels or bars</li>
 <li>Electrolyte powder</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Camera with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Portable charger</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Repair kit (for clothing and equipment)</li>
 <li>Duct tape</li>
 <li>Ziplock bags (for waterproofing)</li>
 <li>Cash and identification</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Permits and necessary paperwork</li>
 <li>Emergency contact information</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

The starting point of the climb, located at an altitude of 4850 meters.

Base Camp

A campsite situated at 5600 meters above sea level.

Camp 1

An intermediate campsite positioned at 6200 meters.

Camp 2

A high camp established at 6700 meters on the mountain.

Camp 3

The majestic summit of Himlung Himal, standing at an elevation of 7126 meters.

Summit

The climbing itinerary for Himlung Himal includes stops at Base Camp (4850m), Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (6200m), Camp 3 (6700m), and finally, the summit at 7126 meters.

Climbing Himlung Himal requires several permits to ensure compliance and support local conservation efforts. The permits cover access to restricted areas and provide necessary support during the climb.

Allows entry into the restricted areas along the Himlung Himal route.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP)

Authorizes climbing Himlung Himal and includes necessary support from the local authorities.

Climbing Permit

Allows entry into the national park where Himlung Himal is located.

National Park Entry Permit

The Himlung Himal route offers basic services catering to climbers and trekkers. While the facilities may be more limited compared to popular routes, there are accommodation options, guides, porters, and some basic medical services available. It's important to plan and prepare accordingly to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the route.

Include a side trip to climb Pisang Peak, a popular trekking peak near Himlung Himal, providing an additional mountaineering challenge and acclimitization for the main climb

Pisang Peak Climb

The weather conditions on Himlung Himal vary throughout the year. The most popular climbing months are April, May, and October, which generally offer more favorable weather conditions. The mountain experiences colder temperatures and higher rainfall during the winter and monsoon seasons. It is crucial to plan your climb during the optimal months to ensure safer and more enjoyable climbing conditions.

Himlung Himal

Kang Yatze 1, a prominent peak in the Ladakh region of India, stands at an impressive height of 6,400 meters. Known for its technical challenge, this peak is often sought after by serious mountaineers looking for a demanding ascent. The climb is characterized by its steep slopes and icy conditions, which require climbers to be well-prepared with the necessary skills and equipment. The peak's isolation adds to the adventure, offering a serene environment away from the more crowded trekking routes.

The ascent of Kang Yatze 1 demands a solid understanding of alpine techniques. The route typically involves navigating through snow and rock, with the upper sections presenting the most significant difficulty. This part of the climb often involves mixed climbing conditions, with the possibility of encountering crevasses and seracs. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, and climbers should be ready to face strong winds and sudden temperature drops. The panoramic views from the summit are breathtaking, providing a rewarding end to the challenging journey.

While Kang Yatze 1 is less frequented compared to other peaks in the region, it offers a genuine sense of isolation and accomplishment for those who reach its summit. With its remote location and demanding conditions, it remains a peak that calls to the experienced mountaineer. If you're considering an expedition here, it's worth noting that there are currently 4 guides offering climbs up Kang Yatze 1, though their services should be carefully evaluated to match your skill level and expectations.

Kang Yatze 1

Kang Yatze 2 in the Indian Himalayas, standing at an elevation of 6,250 meters, is a climb that deserves respect from any seasoned mountaineer. Located in the picturesque Markha Valley of Ladakh, this peak offers a blend of technical challenges and striking beauty. Unlike its more technically demanding neighbor, Kang Yatze 1, the second summit is considered less difficult, making it a favored choice for climbers aiming to experience high-altitude mountaineering in India without the extreme technical demands. The ascent generally involves navigating glaciated terrain, which can be tricky and requires a good understanding of crevasse safety. A well-rounded skill set in alpine techniques is essential here, as the mountain's conditions can change rapidly.

Climbing Kang Yatze 2 is often approached from the town of Leh, which serves as a starting point for acclimatization treks through the Markha Valley. The route itself is a journey through varied landscapes, starting with the lush valleys and gradually giving way to the stark beauty of high-altitude desert. As you ascend, you'll encounter moraine fields before reaching the snow-covered slopes that lead to the summit. The final push to the top is typically attempted in the early hours to take advantage of the firmer snowpack, and to avoid the strong winds that tend to pick up later in the day. Reaching the summit rewards climbers with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, a sight that makes the challenges of the climb well worth the effort.

While Kang Yatze 2 might not be the most technically demanding peak, it's not to be underestimated. Weather conditions can be harsh, with sudden snowstorms and high winds posing real threats even to experienced climbers. It's crucial to be well-prepared with appropriate gear and a solid understanding of high-altitude weather patterns. For those considering an expedition, there are currently 12 guides offering their services to help navigate this formidable peak. Remember, every climb is a personal journey, and Kang Yatze 2 offers an excellent opportunity to test your skills in one of India's most beautiful mountain settings.

Kang Yatze 2

<ul>
 <li>By Air: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
 <li>By Road: Drive from Kathmandu to Salleri or Phaplu and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
 <li>By Helicopter: Take a helicopter from Kathmandu to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
</ul>

Ama Dablam, located in Nepal, stands as a distinctive beacon for mountaineers seeking a challenging climb. Rising to an elevation of 6,812 meters, this peak is renowned not only for its aesthetic beauty but also for the technical challenges it presents. The southwest ridge, known as the normal route, offers an exhilarating climb with a mix of rock, ice, and snow. The expedition demands a high degree of skill, particularly in ice and mixed climbing, making it a sought-after ascent for experienced climbers. The name "Ama Dablam" translates to "Mother's Necklace," reflecting the hanging glacier that resembles a traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women. The climb is a testament to precision and perseverance, where each section presents its unique set of challenges.

As you ascend, you'll encounter the notorious Dablam, an overhanging ice cliff that tests even the most seasoned climbers. The exposure in this section is significant, demanding careful judgment and steady nerves. The route to the summit involves negotiating intricate seracs and traversing steep pitches. The views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the Himalayas that few get to witness firsthand. The high-altitude conditions can be harsh, with rapid weather changes that demand respect and readiness from all climbers. It’s a mountain that rewards meticulous preparation and the ability to adapt to the mountain's rhythm.

Despite its allure, Ama Dablam should not be underestimated. The mountain's popularity has grown, and with it, the number of expedition teams attempting to conquer its heights. Currently, there are 45 guides offering expeditions to Ama Dablam, providing ample opportunities for those ready to take on its challenges. Each ascent is a blend of strategy, skill, and determination, calling for a deep respect for the mountain's formidable presence.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Hardshell jacket</li>
 <li>Softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Fleece jacket</li>
 <li>Base layer tops and bottoms</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Mountaineering pants</li>
 <li>Waterproof pants</li>
 <li>Down pants</li>
 <li>Mountaineering gloves</li>
 <li>Inner gloves</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Approach shoes</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering socks</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Balaclava</li>
 <li>Buff or neck gaiter</li>
 <li>Sunglasses</li>
 <li>Glacier glasses</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Climbing Gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Ascender/Descender devices</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Climbing slings</li>
 <li>Helmet light or headlamp</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Camping Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Tent (check with your guide)</li>
 <li>Cooking stove and fuel</li>
 <li>Cooking utensils</li>
 <li>Food and snacks</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>Toiletries (toilet paper, wet wipes, hand sanitizer)</li>
 <li>Sunscreen</li>
 <li>Lip balm with SPF</li>
 <li>Personal medications</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Repair kit (sewing kit, duct tape)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Money (Nepalese rupees)</li>
 <li>Passport and permits</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Camera and spare batteries / Phone and power bank</li>
 <li>Book or entertainment / Journal and pen</li>
 <li>Snacks and energy bars</li>
 <li>Trash bags</li>
 <li>Waterproof dry bags</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Highly technical climb with significant exposure

The starting point of the climb at an altitude of 4570 meters. Climbers acclimatize, prepare equipment, and receive training here.

The first campsite located at 5700 meters, providing a higher base for acclimatization and staging for the summit push.

The second camp situated at 6000 meters, offering a strategic position for further acclimatization and preparation for higher altitudes.

The third campsite located at 6400 meters, where climbers finalize their preparations, make the summit push, and stay during the descent.

The ultimate objective of the climb, reaching the summit of Ama Dablam at an elevation of 6812 meters. Experience a challenging ascent and enjoy stunning views from the top.

Ama Dablam Summit

The climbing itinerary for Ama Dablam includes stops at Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, and the Ama Dablam Summit. Climbers acclimatize, progress through the camps, and make the summit push. Reaching the summit offers a rewarding experience with breathtaking views for experienced climbers.

Ama Dablam

Required for entry into Sagarmatha National Park

Sagarmatha National Park Permit

Required for climbing peaks in the Khumbu region

Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit

Ama Dablam Climbing Permit

Lukla

Base camp

Services on the Ama Dablam route are limited, but there are some options available to support trekkers and climbers.

The climbing season is typically from September to November when the weather is clear and dry. During this time, the temperature ranges from 5°C to -10°C at night, and from 10°C to 15°C during the day. From December to February, it is extremely cold with the temperature dropping as low as -20°C at night. March to May is another popular climbing season with mild temperatures ranging from -5°C to 10°C at night, and from 10°C to 20°C during the day. June to August is the monsoon season with heavy rainfalls, making climbing difficult.

	Rating	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks		5 / 5	2
Google		5 / 5	2

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Trips offered by Happy Feet Mountaineers Pvt. Ltd.

Himlung Himal
$7,000

Kang Yatze 1
$2,750

Kang Yatze 2
$1,700

Ama Dablam
$6,500

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