Annapurna in Nepal stands as a formidable challenge for any seasoned mountaineer. With its towering presence at an elevation of 8,091 meters, it is the tenth highest peak in the world. The mountain is notorious for its difficulty and the unpredictable weather conditions that can change rapidly, making it a true test of endurance and climbing skill. The massif is known for its steep south face, one of the most treacherous climbs, demanding technical expertise and careful planning. Avalanche risks are ever-present, and climbers must be vigilant and prepared for the mountain's harsh realities.

The route selection on Annapurna requires strategic thinking and adaptability. Climbers often opt for the North Face route due to its relatively lower risk of avalanches compared to the South Face. However, the North Face presents its own set of challenges, with complex ice and rock formations that test even the most experienced mountaineers. The weather can be unforgiving, with high winds and low temperatures that demand high-altitude acclimatization. Each season presents different conditions, and timing your ascent is critical to avoid the notorious Himalayan storms that can sweep across the peak.

Despite the challenges, the allure of Annapurna is undeniable for those seeking a pure mountaineering experience. The mountain's history, marked by both triumph and tragedy, draws climbers who are prepared to face its daunting slopes. As you consider this ascent, note that there are currently 26 guides offering expeditions to Annapurna, each with varying levels of support and logistics. Choose your team wisely, prepare thoroughly, and approach this giant with respect and caution.

Annapurna

<ul>
 <li>By Air: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
 <li>By Road: Drive from Kathmandu to Salleri or Phaplu and then trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
 <li>By Helicopter: Take a helicopter from Kathmandu to Ama Dablam Base Camp.</li>
</ul>

Ama Dablam, located in Nepal, stands as a distinctive beacon for mountaineers seeking a challenging climb. Rising to an elevation of 6,812 meters, this peak is renowned not only for its aesthetic beauty but also for the technical challenges it presents. The southwest ridge, known as the normal route, offers an exhilarating climb with a mix of rock, ice, and snow. The expedition demands a high degree of skill, particularly in ice and mixed climbing, making it a sought-after ascent for experienced climbers. The name "Ama Dablam" translates to "Mother's Necklace," reflecting the hanging glacier that resembles a traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women. The climb is a testament to precision and perseverance, where each section presents its unique set of challenges.

As you ascend, you'll encounter the notorious Dablam, an overhanging ice cliff that tests even the most seasoned climbers. The exposure in this section is significant, demanding careful judgment and steady nerves. The route to the summit involves negotiating intricate seracs and traversing steep pitches. The views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the Himalayas that few get to witness firsthand. The high-altitude conditions can be harsh, with rapid weather changes that demand respect and readiness from all climbers. It’s a mountain that rewards meticulous preparation and the ability to adapt to the mountain's rhythm.

Despite its allure, Ama Dablam should not be underestimated. The mountain's popularity has grown, and with it, the number of expedition teams attempting to conquer its heights. Currently, there are 45 guides offering expeditions to Ama Dablam, providing ample opportunities for those ready to take on its challenges. Each ascent is a blend of strategy, skill, and determination, calling for a deep respect for the mountain's formidable presence.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Hardshell jacket</li>
 <li>Softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Fleece jacket</li>
 <li>Base layer tops and bottoms</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Mountaineering pants</li>
 <li>Waterproof pants</li>
 <li>Down pants</li>
 <li>Mountaineering gloves</li>
 <li>Inner gloves</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Approach shoes</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering socks</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Balaclava</li>
 <li>Buff or neck gaiter</li>
 <li>Sunglasses</li>
 <li>Glacier glasses</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Climbing Gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Ascender/Descender devices</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Climbing slings</li>
 <li>Helmet light or headlamp</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Camping Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated for cold temperatures)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Tent (check with your guide)</li>
 <li>Cooking stove and fuel</li>
 <li>Cooking utensils</li>
 <li>Food and snacks</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>Toiletries (toilet paper, wet wipes, hand sanitizer)</li>
 <li>Sunscreen</li>
 <li>Lip balm with SPF</li>
 <li>Personal medications</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Repair kit (sewing kit, duct tape)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Money (Nepalese rupees)</li>
 <li>Passport and permits</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Camera and spare batteries / Phone and power bank</li>
 <li>Book or entertainment / Journal and pen</li>
 <li>Snacks and energy bars</li>
 <li>Trash bags</li>
 <li>Waterproof dry bags</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Highly technical climb with significant exposure

The starting point of the climb at an altitude of 4570 meters. Climbers acclimatize, prepare equipment, and receive training here.

Base Camp

The first campsite located at 5700 meters, providing a higher base for acclimatization and staging for the summit push.

Camp 1

The second camp situated at 6000 meters, offering a strategic position for further acclimatization and preparation for higher altitudes.

Camp 2

The third campsite located at 6400 meters, where climbers finalize their preparations, make the summit push, and stay during the descent.

Camp 3

The ultimate objective of the climb, reaching the summit of Ama Dablam at an elevation of 6812 meters. Experience a challenging ascent and enjoy stunning views from the top.

Ama Dablam Summit

The climbing itinerary for Ama Dablam includes stops at Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, and the Ama Dablam Summit. Climbers acclimatize, progress through the camps, and make the summit push. Reaching the summit offers a rewarding experience with breathtaking views for experienced climbers.

Ama Dablam

Required for entry into Sagarmatha National Park

Sagarmatha National Park Permit

Required for climbing peaks in the Khumbu region

Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit

Ama Dablam Climbing Permit

Lukla

Base camp

Services on the Ama Dablam route are limited, but there are some options available to support trekkers and climbers.

The climbing season is typically from September to November when the weather is clear and dry. During this time, the temperature ranges from 5°C to -10°C at night, and from 10°C to 15°C during the day. From December to February, it is extremely cold with the temperature dropping as low as -20°C at night. March to May is another popular climbing season with mild temperatures ranging from -5°C to 10°C at night, and from 10°C to 20°C during the day. June to August is the monsoon season with heavy rainfalls, making climbing difficult.

Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, stands as the seventh highest mountain in the world, towering at an impressive 8,167 meters. Known for its remarkable isolation, Dhaulagiri is a formidable challenge even for seasoned climbers. The routes up this peak are steep and demand technical proficiency, with the Northeast Ridge and the Southeast Ridge being the most renowned among mountaineers. The mountain's weather conditions are notoriously unpredictable, with treacherous winds and heavy snowfall often complicating ascents. The climb requires a high level of endurance and mental fortitude, as the altitude and terrain test every climber's limits.

One of the most striking features of Dhaulagiri is its massive south face, which presents an imposing challenge even to the most experienced climbers. The glacial landscapes and snowfields can be both mesmerizing and perilous, demanding precise navigation skills. Avalanches are a constant concern, and the ability to assess risk and make swift decisions is crucial. The mountain is often less crowded than other Himalayan giants, offering a more solitary and introspective climbing experience. Those who choose to tackle Dhaulagiri must be prepared for a remote expedition, where self-sufficiency and meticulous planning are key.

As you make your way up, the thin air and harsh conditions serve as a reminder of the mountain's unforgiving nature. The summit rewards climbers with breathtaking views of the Annapurna and the Kali Gandaki Gorge, underscoring the achievement of conquering such a challenging ascent. Dhaulagiri is a mountain that demands respect and careful preparation. There are 25 guides offering expeditions to this remote peak, but the climb itself is a testament to personal strength and resilience.

Dhaulagiri

Putha Hiunchuli, standing at an impressive 7,246 meters, is one of the less frequented giants of the Dhaulagiri range in Nepal. This peak offers a unique experience for mountaineers looking to escape the bustling trails of more popular mountains. The climb itself is a test of endurance and skill, requiring a keen understanding of high-altitude conditions. The route typically approached from the western side, offers both challenges and rewards, with stunning views that unfold as you ascend.

For those who have tackled Himalayan peaks before, Putha Hiunchuli presents a moderate level of difficulty. The route is not overly technical, primarily consisting of snow and ice, but it demands respect for its altitude and rapidly changing weather conditions. Climbing this mountain requires careful planning, as the weather can shift dramatically, necessitating strategic acclimatization and a flexible approach to summit bids. The climb is often attempted in the autumn months, when the weather is more stable and the skies clearer.

Reaching the summit of Putha Hiunchuli rewards climbers with breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding peaks and valleys, a view that few have the privilege to witness. As a mountaineer, you’ll appreciate the solitude and the pure connection with nature this climb offers. There are currently 19 guides that provide expeditions to this majestic peak, each offering their own unique insights and experiences to enrich your climb.

Putha Hiunchuli

Pokalde, nestled in the Khumbu region of Nepal, stands at a modest height of 5,806 meters. While it might not boast the towering stature of its neighbors, Pokalde offers a unique climbing experience that is both rewarding and challenging. The approach to the mountain is straightforward, with the base camp accessible via the classic Everest Base Camp trek route. As you ascend, you'll find that the terrain is generally rocky with a few sections of snow and ice near the summit. The climb itself is categorized as a trekking peak, making it accessible to those who have some experience but are not necessarily looking for an extremely technical ascent.

The most common route up Pokalde is from the south ridge, which provides a direct and scenic path to the summit. Here, climbers can expect some scrambling, with a few sections requiring the use of ropes depending on the conditions. The crux of the climb often lies in the final stretch, where snow and ice can present a challenge. It's vital to be prepared for varied weather conditions, as they can change rapidly in this region, adding an extra layer of complexity to the ascent. Despite its reputation as a less demanding peak, reaching the summit of Pokalde still offers the thrill of a high-altitude climb and panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayas.

For those interested in taking on Pokalde, there are approximately 20 guides who offer expeditions up this mountain. While the mountain is considered suitable for those with some climbing experience, it's always wise to be prepared and to understand the nuances of the climb. The opportunity to tackle Pokalde provides a fantastic stepping stone for mountaineers looking to hone their skills in the Himalayas without the commitment of a more formidable peak.

Pokalde

Mount Pumori stands proudly on the Nepal-Tibet border, a formidable challenge for any mountaineer seeking to conquer its 7,161-meter height. Known as "Everest's Daughter," Pumori offers a demanding climb that tests one's technical skills and resilience. The ascent typically follows the South East ridge, a route that presents significant exposure and requires proficiency in ice and mixed climbing. The weather conditions can be unpredictable, with fierce winds and cold temperatures adding to the challenge. Pumori doesn't offer the highest altitude climb in the region, but its technical demands and the raw beauty of its landscape make it a rewarding endeavor.

The approach to Pumori is as much a part of the experience as the climb itself. Starting from the Khumbu region, climbers embark on a trek through stunning valleys and past iconic Sherpa villages, acclimatizing along the way. Base Camp is set on a glacier at around 5,300 meters, providing a stark but breathtaking environment to prepare for the ascent. The climb involves navigating through seracs and crevasses, with the need for careful route finding particularly in the upper sections. The final push to the summit demands a strong will and precise footwork, but the reward is an unparalleled view of the surrounding giants, including Everest itself.

For those looking to test their skills on Pumori, it's worth noting that there are 22 guides offering expeditions. These guides bring invaluable local knowledge and logistics support, making it feasible for climbers to focus on the technical and physical demands of the mountain. While Pumori may not be the first choice for every mountaineer, its combination of technical challenges and stunning vistas makes it a deeply satisfying climb for those who are prepared.

Pumori

Getting to the Start of Dhampus Peak Climb:
<ul>
 <li>Option 1: The Dhampus Peak climbing itinerary initiates with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara city then to Beni in the west. Trek starts towards Tatopani and progresses to the quaint villages of Ghasa, Larjung and Marpha along the Kali Gandaki river. Trek moves to a higher altitude from Yak Kharka and crosses Dhampus/Thapa Pass before summiting Dhampus Peak.. The road journey from Pokhara to the trailhead offers breathtaking views of the Himalayan landscape.</li>
 <li>Option 2: Overland Journey from Kathmandu to Pokhara: If you prefer a more budget-friendly option, you can opt for an overland journey from Kathmandu to Pokhara by bus. The bus ride takes around 6-7 hours and offers a chance to witness the countryside scenery and the lifestyle of local communities en route to Pokhara. From Pokhara, continue as mentioned in Option 1 to reach the trailhead.</li>
</ul>

Return from the End of Dhampus Peak Climb:
<ul>
 <li>Option 1: Trekking Back to Pokhara: After successfully summiting Dhampus Peak and completing the trek, you have the option to trek back to Pokhara following the same route. This return journey allows you to revisit the beautiful landscapes and villages you encountered on your way up.</li>
 <li>Option 2: Overland Transport to Pokhara: If you prefer a more convenient and quicker return, you can arrange for overland transport from the endpoint of the trek to Pokhara. Private jeeps or shared vehicles can be hired to take you back to Pokhara, where you can relax and celebrate your accomplishment.</li>
 <li>Option 3: Alternate Trekking Route or Further Exploration: For those seeking more adventure, you can choose an alternate trekking route to explore the Annapurna region further. There are several trails that lead to different destinations, allowing you to extend your journey and experience more of Nepal's natural beauty.</li>
</ul>

Dhampus Peak, nestled in the heart of the Dhaulagiri range in Nepal, stands at an impressive 6,012 meters above sea level. This peak offers a non-technical climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers looking for a less crowded ascent with rewarding views. The approach to the mountain involves traversing through the magnificent Kali Gandaki valley, offering glimpses of the diverse landscapes of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The climb itself is straightforward, with the main challenge being its altitude. The ascent demands careful acclimatization, but the route does not require advanced technical skills, making it an appealing choice for those who have experience in high-altitude trekking.

The conditions on Dhampus Peak are typical of the Himalayan region, with weather patterns that can change rapidly. Climbers should be prepared for cold temperatures and the possibility of snow, particularly during the early or late parts of the climbing season. The best time to attempt this peak is during the pre-monsoon (April to June) and post-monsoon (September to November) periods when the weather is most stable. The final ascent involves negotiating a snow-covered ridge that offers a panoramic vista of the surrounding peaks, including the towering Dhaulagiri and the distant Annapurnas. This ridge walk is the highlight of the climb, providing a sense of solitude and a connection to the vastness of the Himalayas.

For those considering an expedition to Dhampus Peak, you'll find that the mountain is served by around 30 guides who offer their expertise to help you navigate its slopes. These guides can assist with logistics, ensuring a safe and enriching experience. The mountain’s relatively accessible nature combined with its stunning scenery makes it a worthy addition to any mountaineer's itinerary in Nepal.

<h3>Gear:</h3>
<ul>
 <li>Mountaineering Boots</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice Axe</li>
 <li>Climbing Harness</li>
 <li>Climbing Helmet</li>
 <li>Trekking Poles</li>
 <li>Rope (with appropriate length)</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Quickdraws</li>
 <li>Slings</li>
 <li>Ascender/Descender Device</li>
 <li>Belay Device</li>
 <li>Prusik Cord</li>
 <li>Mountaineering Backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping Bag (appropriate for the season)</li>
 <li>Sleeping Pad/Mattress</li>
 <li>Tent</li>
 <li>Cooking Stove</li>
 <li>Cookware</li>
 <li>Headlamp with Extra Batteries</li>
 <li>Sun Protection (sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm)</li>
 <li>First Aid Kit</li>
 <li>Personal Medications</li>
 <li>Water Filtration System</li>
 <li>Map and Compass/GPS</li>
 <li>Multi-tool/Knife</li>
 <li>Lightweight Clothing (moisture-wicking base layers, insulating layers, and waterproof shell)</li>
 <li>Warm Hat and Gloves</li>
 <li>Mountaineering Goggles</li>
 <li>Thermal Socks</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hand Warmers</li>
 <li>Emergency Shelter</li>
 <li>Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) or Gamow Bag</li>
 <li>Communication Device (satellite phone or radio)</li>
 <li>Emergency Whistle</li>
 <li>Repair Kit for Gear (duct tape, repair patches)</li>
 <li>Trash Bags (for waste disposal)</li>
 <li>Document Copies (passport, permits, etc.)</li>
</ul>

The journey begins at Dhampus Pass, located at an elevation of 5244 meters, where trekkers acclimatize and prepare for the climb ahead.

Hidden Valley Base Camp

The ultimate achievement awaits at the Dhampus Peak Summit, standing tall at an elevation of 6012 meters, where climbers are rewarded with unparalleled panoramic views of the Annapurna range.

Dhampus Peak Summit

For experienced climbers, the Dhampus Peak climb starts at Dhampus Pass (5244 meters). The final ascent culminates at the majestic Dhampus Peak Summit (6012 meters), offering breathtaking vistas of the Annapurna range.

This permit is required for all trekkers in Nepal.

TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Permit

This permit allows entry into the Annapurna Conservation Area, where Dhampus peak is located.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)

This permit specifically allows climbing Dhampus peak.

Dhampus Peak Climbing Permit

Beni

Dharapani 

Muri

Dobang

Boghara

Italian Base Camp

Dhaulagiri Base camp

Marpha

Jomsom

Dhampus Peak

Tilicho Lake 

The Dhampus Peak route offers a thrilling adventure in the Annapurna region of Nepal. It combines trekking through picturesque landscapes with the excitement of reaching the summit of Dhampus Peak. Along the way, trekkers and climbers can find essential services to enhance their journey.

If you have more time and a sense of adventure, venture towards Tilicho Lake, one of the highest lakes in the world. The trek offers mesmerizing landscapes and a chance to experience the remote region.

Tilicho Lake Trek

Dhampus peak is a popular climb, with most people attempting it during the months of March, April, May, and October due to the relatively stable weather conditions. However, be prepared for unpredictable weather changes, especially during the monsoon season from June to September.

Shishapangma, standing at an impressive 8,027 meters, is the 14th highest mountain in the world and the only one entirely within China and Tibet. It's often considered a bit of a hidden gem among the 8,000-meter peaks, partly due to its remote location in the Tibetan Himalayas. Unlike some of its more famous brethren, it doesn't have the same level of commercialization, which is a blessing if you’re seeking solitude. The mountain offers a variety of routes, but the most commonly attempted is the North Ridge, starting from the base camp at around 5,000 meters. From there, climbers typically set up three more camps before the summit push.

The climb itself is more straightforward compared to the technical challenges of peaks like K2 or Annapurna, making it a popular choice for those looking to bag their first 8,000-meter summit. However, don’t let the relative simplicity fool you; the altitude and weather conditions can be unforgiving. The mountain has seen its share of mishaps, and the weather can turn quickly, so solid acclimatization and preparation are key. The final push to the summit involves navigating through snowfields and potential cornices, so timing and route-finding are crucial to a successful ascent.

In spring and autumn, the weather is usually more stable, making these the preferred seasons for an attempt. Keep in mind that even though Shishapangma might not require the technical prowess of the more treacherous peaks, the sheer altitude demands respect and careful planning. If you're considering an expedition, you’ll find that there are 19 guides offering climbs up Shishapangma, providing a range of options for those looking to undertake this magnificent journey.

Shishapangma

Gangapurna stands as an imposing figure in the Annapurna region of Nepal, rising to a formidable height of 7,455 meters. The climb itself is no walk in the park, demanding both technical skill and mental fortitude. As you approach from the north side, expect a mix of steep ice and rock faces, requiring adept handling of ice screws and rock protection. This peak is not as frequently attempted as some of its neighbors, which adds an element of pristine solitude to the ascent. The route to the summit is typically less crowded, allowing you to truly immerse yourself in the mountain's raw beauty.

Weather conditions on Gangapurna can be unpredictable, with sudden snowstorms and high winds being common challenges. Climbing during the pre-monsoon or post-monsoon seasons offers the most stable conditions, though temperatures can still plummet significantly. The mountain's ridges and faces demand precise navigation skills, especially in low visibility. The ice conditions can vary, with crevasse risk present on the glacier sections. It's essential to have a well-coordinated team, as rope management and quick decision-making become crucial in the face of these unpredictable elements.

Reaching the summit of Gangapurna rewards you with breathtaking, panoramic views over the Annapurna massif and beyond. The sense of accomplishment is immense, knowing you've tackled one of Nepal's more demanding peaks. This mountain is a true test of your mountaineering skills, pushing your limits with every step. For those interested in taking on this challenge, there are currently 9 guides offering expeditions up Gangapurna. It's a climb that promises not just physical exertion, but a deep connection with the majestic Himalayan landscapes.

Gangapurna

Api Himal, the highest peak in the Far Western region of Nepal, stands proudly at an impressive 7,132 meters. Its remote and rugged terrain offers a challenging ascent that draws seasoned mountaineers looking for solitude and adventure away from the more popular climbing routes. The journey to the summit is marked by dramatic ridgelines and technical sections that demand a high level of skill and experience. Climbers should be prepared for unpredictable weather conditions, which can rapidly change, making the ascent even more demanding.

The ascent of Api Himal isn't just about the climb; it's about the journey through a landscape that feels untouched by time. The approach trek is an experience in itself, taking you through isolated villages and pristine forests. The mountain's isolation means logistics can be more complicated than on more frequented peaks, but this is part of its allure. The climb itself is typically tackled via the northwest ridge, which features a combination of steep ice and rock sections. This route requires a head for heights and a solid grasp of advanced mountaineering techniques.

Api Himal does not attract the commercial attention of other Himalayan giants, but this is precisely what appeals to those seeking a more authentic and less crowded climbing experience. With only six guides offering expeditions, it's a mountain that promises a unique challenge and an opportunity to test one's limits in a truly remote setting. If you're looking to push your boundaries and experience the raw beauty of the Himalayas, Api Himal offers an unforgettable adventure.

Api Himal

Cho Oyu, standing prominently at 8,188 meters, is the sixth highest mountain in the world and a favored destination for those seeking to step into the world of 8,000 meter peaks. Nestled in the Himalayas of Nepal, it offers a comparatively less technical ascent than its towering neighbors, making it an attractive option for experienced climbers looking to test themselves at high altitude. The standard route through the northwest face is a classic choice, known for its manageable gradients and relatively straightforward navigation, though the challenges of altitude should never be underestimated.

The climb typically involves establishing multiple camps above the base, with C1 and C2 being critical points for acclimatization. The route is characterized by a mix of snow slopes and occasional short technical sections, demanding proficiency in crampon and ice axe technique. Weather conditions can be harsh, with strong winds and low temperatures adding to the complexity of the ascent. As with any Himalayan expedition, timing your summit push is crucial to avoid the notorious jet stream winds that can sweep across the summit, turning a challenging ascent into a formidable one.

For those considering an ascent of Cho Oyu, it's worth noting that there are currently 31 guides offering organized expeditions to this peak. Their experience can be invaluable in navigating the logistical and environmental challenges of the region. Whether you're seeking to build experience for more technical climbs or aiming to add another 8,000-meter summit to your achievements, Cho Oyu presents a rewarding challenge for seasoned mountaineers.

Cho Oyu

Makalu stands as a formidable challenge for any experienced mountaineer. As the fifth highest mountain in the world, it reaches an impressive height of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) in the Mahalangur Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China. Its striking pyramid shape is as intimidating as it is beautiful, with four sharp ridges that define its profile. The ascent is no simple task, requiring technical skill and a high degree of acclimatization. The predominant route is the Southeast Ridge, which tests your ability to navigate steep ice and snow, not to mention the notorious Makalu La, a high pass that presents its own unique challenges.

The weather conditions on Makalu can be harsh and unpredictable. High winds and heavy snowfall are common, adding an extra layer of difficulty to an already demanding climb. The weather windows are typically short, so precision in timing your summit push is crucial. The climb itself demands a thorough understanding of high-altitude mountaineering techniques. Expect long sections of exposed ridge lines, technical ice climbing, and the need for precise rope work. The combination of technical difficulty and unpredictable conditions makes Makalu a serious undertaking that should not be underestimated.

Despite its challenges, Makalu offers a rewarding experience for those who are well-prepared and determined. The mountain has a reputation for its stunning vistas, with views of Everest and Lhotse on clear days. The feeling of isolation is profound, as the area sees fewer climbers than other peaks in the region. This solitude is part of what makes a Makalu ascent so appealing to seasoned climbers. Currently, there are 35 guides offering expeditions to this magnificent peak, each bringing their expertise to help you tackle one of the most challenging climbs in the Himalayas.

Makalu

Lhotse, located in Nepal, stands as the fourth highest mountain in the world, reaching an impressive height of 8,516 meters. Unlike its more famous neighbor, Everest, Lhotse offers its own unique challenges that attract experienced climbers. The mountain is renowned for its South Face, one of the most formidable walls in the Himalayas. This face is notorious for its steepness and exposure, offering a technical challenge that demands respect and skill. The route typically involves navigating through the Khumbu Icefall, followed by the Western Cwm, before tackling the Lhotse Face, a steep, icy wall that tests even the most seasoned mountaineers.

Conditions on Lhotse can be harsh and unpredictable, with high winds and extreme cold often complicating the ascent. Avalanches are a constant threat, particularly on the Lhotse Face, where seracs can break free with little warning. The weather window is typically short, adding pressure to the climb. Acclimatization is crucial, as the altitude can take a toll on the body, demanding careful planning and execution. Many climbers approach Lhotse as a twin objective with Everest, given their proximity, but it's essential to respect Lhotse as a standalone challenge worthy of its own preparation and focus.

For those interested in taking on Lhotse, there are currently 35 guides offering expeditions to this formidable peak. Each offers a unique approach to tackling the mountain, but all acknowledge the significant commitment required to conquer Lhotse's demanding terrain.

Lhotse

<ul>
 <li>Private Car/Jeep: The most convenient and comfortable way to get to the start of the Chulu East climb is by hiring a private car or jeep, which can be arranged in advance.</li>
 <li>Public Bus: Public buses are available from Kathmandu to Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. From there, you will need to hire a jeep or walk to Chame, where the trek officially starts.</li>
 <li>Shared Jeep: Shared jeeps can be found in Besishahar, which is the starting point for the trek. They are a more affordable option than private cars, but can be crowded and uncomfortable.</li>
 <li>Flight: Flights are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Jomsom, both of which are near the Annapurna region. From there, you can hire a jeep or take a bus to Besishahar and then proceed to Chame.</li>
 <li>Helicopter: Helicopter rides are available from Kathmandu to Chame, which is the starting point for the trek. However, they are expensive and not a practical option for most trekkers.</li>
</ul>

Accommodation on the Chulu east route varies from basic teahouses to more luxurious lodges. Most places offer shared rooms with shared bathrooms, but private rooms may also be available at a higher cost. Prices tend to increase with altitude and remoteness of the location.
<ul>
 <li>
 Teahouses: Basic and affordable, teahouses typically offer shared rooms with basic amenities like a bed and a blanket. Shared bathrooms are usually available. Prices range from about $5-15 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Lodges: More comfortable and spacious, lodges often offer private rooms with attached bathrooms. They may also offer amenities like hot showers and wifi. Prices range from about $20-50 per night.
 </li>
 <li>
 Camping: For those who prefer to bring their own accommodation, camping is an option on the Chulu east route. Campsites are limited, and you may need to carry your own equipment. Prices range from about $5-10 per night for camping fees.
 </li>
</ul>

Chulu East is a noteworthy peak in the Annapurna region of Nepal, standing at an impressive height of approximately 6,584 meters. This mountain is a popular choice among mountaineers due to its challenging yet achievable routes, which offer an ideal balance for those looking to step up from trekking peaks to more demanding climbs. The ascent typically begins from the village of Manang, providing a gradual acclimatization as you progress towards the higher altitudes. The initial approach involves navigating through diverse terrain, ranging from lush forests to rocky outcrops, setting the stage for the more technical sections ahead.

The climb itself is characterized by a mixture of rock and ice, with some sections requiring proficiency in technical skills. The north-east ridge is the usual route taken by climbers, which demands careful planning and execution. The route involves negotiating snow slopes and a glacier, where crevasse navigation becomes crucial. As you climb higher, the thinner air and colder temperatures present additional challenges, but the rewards of standing atop Chulu East are immense. The panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges are a testament to the effort put into the climb, offering a unique perspective of this part of the Himalayas.

Weather and conditions play a significant role in the success of the climb, with the ideal times being the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. These periods offer relatively stable weather, though sudden changes can still occur, requiring climbers to be adaptable and prepared. It's important to have a good understanding of the conditions and be ready for potential avalanche risks and rapid weather changes. There are currently 45 guides that offer expeditions up Chulu East, providing ample options for those seeking organized support for their ascent.

<ul>
 <li>
 Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Warm base layers</li>
 <li>Insulated mid layers</li>
 <li>Waterproof outer layers</li>
 <li>Warm hat and gloves</li>
 <li>Sun hat and sunglasses</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking boots and spare laces</li>
 <li>Thick socks and spare pairs</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Climbing gear:
 <ul>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners and quickdraws</li>
 <li>Belay device</li>
 <li>Ascender/descender</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Backpack:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack (50-70L)</li>
 <li>Rain cover for backpack</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Sleeping:
 <ul>
 <li>Sleeping bag (rated to at least -20°C)</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad/mattress</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Food and water:
 <ul>
 <li>Energy bars and snacks</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets/filter</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Navigation and communication:
 <ul>
 <li>Topographic map and compass</li>
 <li>GPS device</li>
 <li>Headlamp and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Cell phone and charger</li>
 <li>Radio or satellite phone (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Personal hygiene:
 <ul>
 <li>Toilet paper and trowel</li>
 <li>Hand sanitizer and wet wipes</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Insect repellent</li>
 <li>Personal medication and first aid kit</li>
 <li>Sunglasses and contact lenses/glasses (if needed)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>
 Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Cash and credit card</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Duct tape and repair kit</li>
 <li>Emergency blanket</li>
 <li>Whistle</li>
 <li>Portable charger and cables</li>
 <li>Camera and extra batteries</li>
 <li>Book or entertainment (optional)</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Challenging ascent with moderate technical difficulties.

The starting point of the climb, situated at an altitude of 5360 meters. It serves as a central location for acclimatization and preparation.

Chulu East Base Camp

A campsite located at an elevation of 5530 meters, providing a crucial stop for rest and acclimatization before the summit push.

High Camp

The summit of Chulu East, reaching an elevation of 6584 meters. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

Chulu East Summit

The climbing itinerary for Chulu East includes a base camp at 5360 meters, a high camp at 5530 meters, and the summit at 6584 meters. This challenging ascent requires technical climbing skills and offers experienced mountaineers an exhilarating adventure in the Annapurna region.

Chulu east

For climbing Chulu East, you will need to obtain several permits.

A permit required for entering the Annapurna Conservation Area.

A permit required for climbing Chulu East Peak.

Chulu East Peak Permit

Pisang

Besisahar

Ngadi

Jagat

Dharapani

Chame

Yak Kharka

Muktinath

Thorong Phedi

Thorong La pass

Mesokanto Pass

The Chulu East trek is a popular trekking route that offers a variety of climbing and trekking services. The route passes through several villages and remote areas, and there are several accommodation options, food choices, and gear services available.

A popular variation that includes crossing the high and scenic Mesokanto La pass to reach the remote village of Naar Phu.

The best time to climb Chulu East is from September to November, when the weather is generally dry and stable. The winter months from December to February can be very cold and snowy, while the summer months from June to August can be wet due to the monsoon season.

Baruntse, standing at an impressive 7,129 meters, is a captivating peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Known for its symmetrical beauty, the mountain offers a rewarding climb for mountaineers looking for something off the beaten path. The routes are primarily snow and ice ascents, which makes them perfect for those seeking to hone their technical skills. The West Ridge is the most popular route, providing a direct line to the summit. It's a great warm-up for those eyeing higher peaks in the region, offering challenges without the extreme altitudes of its towering neighbors.

The climb itself is moderately technical, with sections that require adept use of ice axe and crampons. The ascent involves navigating through crevassed glaciers and steep snow slopes, especially as you approach the summit ridge. The summit push demands focus and determination, often with a final steep section that can test your endurance and skills. The weather conditions can be unforgiving, with high winds and sudden snowfalls, making it crucial to have a flexible schedule. The views from the summit, however, reward every ounce of effort, with panoramic vistas of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Logistics can be a bit tricky due to its remote location. Access typically involves a trek through the scenic Hinku Valley, which itself is a memorable experience. The climbing season generally falls in the pre-monsoon and post-monsoon periods, when conditions are most stable. For those interested in taking on Baruntse, there are a total of 28 guides that offer expeditions, each providing varying levels of support and expertise to aid in your ascent.

Baruntse

Start walking in from either Koto or Besisahar (for a bit more acclimitization).
<ul>
 <li>Arrival:
 <ul>
 <li>Fly to Kathmandu, Nepal</li>
 <li>Take an international flight to Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Domestic Flight:
 <ul>
 <li>Take a domestic flight to Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, take a domestic flight to Besisahar, a town in the Lamjung District. This flight saves time and provides a convenient access point for the Himlung Himal route.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Overland Travel:
 <ul>
 <li>Drive to Koto via Besisahar</li>
 <li>From Kathmandu, travel by road to Besisahar, and then continue the journey to Koto, the starting point for the Himlung Himal climb. This overland option allows you to experience the scenic beauty of the region.</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

Himlung Himal, located in the Nepal section of the Himalayas, stands tall at an impressive 7,126 meters. This peak, though less frequented than its famed neighbors like Annapurna or Manaslu, offers a unique and rewarding climb for those seeking a less commercialized adventure. The ascent is mostly non-technical, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's a walk in the park. The climb demands respect, given its altitude and the potential for unpredictable weather conditions. Seasoned climbers will appreciate the relatively untouched nature of the route, which provides a sense of solitude and connection to the raw beauty of the mountains.

Most expeditions to Himlung Himal begin at the village of Phu, following a scenic trek that serves as a perfect acclimatization period. The approach is a harmonious blend of cultural immersion and wilderness trekking, setting the stage for the challenges ahead. The mountain itself offers a series of camps before the final push to the summit, which is usually attempted from Camp 3. Expect long days on the ice and snow, with crevasse navigation and steep slopes that test your stamina and resolve. The rewards are equally great, with panoramic views at the summit that few have had the privilege to witness.

Climbing Himlung Himal is a commitment that requires careful planning and a willingness to embrace the unknown. The conditions can range from straightforward ice and snow ascents to more challenging mixed terrain, depending on the season and weather patterns. It's an ideal expedition for experienced climbers looking to push their limits in a less crowded environment. While the mountain is gaining popularity, it still retains an air of exclusivity. There are currently 46 guides offering expeditions to this remarkable peak, providing ample opportunity for those ready to undertake this adventure.

<ul>
 <li>Clothing:
 <ul>
 <li>Insulated jacket</li>
 <li>Waterproof jacket</li>
 <li>Down or synthetic sleeping bag</li>
 <li>Base layers (thermal tops and bottoms)</li>
 <li>Hiking pants</li>
 <li>Fleece or softshell jacket</li>
 <li>Gloves (inner and outer)</li>
 <li>Warm hat</li>
 <li>Sun hat or cap</li>
 <li>Gaiters</li>
 <li>Hiking socks</li>
 <li>Mountaineering boots</li>
 <li>Camp shoes or sandals</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Equipment:
 <ul>
 <li>Mountaineering backpack</li>
 <li>Sleeping pad</li>
 <li>Trekking poles</li>
 <li>Climbing harness</li>
 <li>Crampons</li>
 <li>Ice axe</li>
 <li>Helmet</li>
 <li>Climbing rope</li>
 <li>Carabiners</li>
 <li>Prusik cords</li>
 <li>Rappel device</li>
 <li>Headlamp with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Sunglasses with UV protection</li>
 <li>Water bottles or hydration system</li>
 <li>Water purification tablets or filter</li>
 <li>First aid kit</li>
 <li>Map and compass</li>
 <li>Sunscreen and lip balm</li>
 <li>Toiletries</li>
 <li>Trekking towel</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Food and Nutrition:
 <ul>
 <li>High-energy snacks</li>
 <li>Dehydrated meals</li>
 <li>Energy gels or bars</li>
 <li>Electrolyte powder</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
 <li>Miscellaneous:
 <ul>
 <li>Camera with spare batteries</li>
 <li>Portable charger</li>
 <li>Multi-tool or knife</li>
 <li>Repair kit (for clothing and equipment)</li>
 <li>Duct tape</li>
 <li>Ziplock bags (for waterproofing)</li>
 <li>Cash and identification</li>
 <li>Travel insurance documents</li>
 <li>Permits and necessary paperwork</li>
 <li>Emergency contact information</li>
 </ul>
 </li>
</ul>

The starting point of the climb, located at an altitude of 4850 meters.

A campsite situated at 5600 meters above sea level.

An intermediate campsite positioned at 6200 meters.

A high camp established at 6700 meters on the mountain.

The majestic summit of Himlung Himal, standing at an elevation of 7126 meters.

Summit

The climbing itinerary for Himlung Himal includes stops at Base Camp (4850m), Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (6200m), Camp 3 (6700m), and finally, the summit at 7126 meters.

Climbing Himlung Himal requires several permits to ensure compliance and support local conservation efforts. The permits cover access to restricted areas and provide necessary support during the climb.

Allows entry into the restricted areas along the Himlung Himal route.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP)

Authorizes climbing Himlung Himal and includes necessary support from the local authorities.

Climbing Permit

Allows entry into the national park where Himlung Himal is located.

National Park Entry Permit

The Himlung Himal route offers basic services catering to climbers and trekkers. While the facilities may be more limited compared to popular routes, there are accommodation options, guides, porters, and some basic medical services available. It's important to plan and prepare accordingly to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the route.

Include a side trip to climb Pisang Peak, a popular trekking peak near Himlung Himal, providing an additional mountaineering challenge and acclimitization for the main climb

Pisang Peak Climb

The weather conditions on Himlung Himal vary throughout the year. The most popular climbing months are April, May, and October, which generally offer more favorable weather conditions. The mountain experiences colder temperatures and higher rainfall during the winter and monsoon seasons. It is crucial to plan your climb during the optimal months to ensure safer and more enjoyable climbing conditions.

	Score	Reviews
Guided Peaks	4.8 / 5	23
Google	4.8 / 5	22
TrustPilot	5 / 5	1

Discover the Expertise of Mountmania

Mountmania Reviews & Ratings

All reviews of Mountmania

View 0 Reviews for Mountmania

Trips offered by Mountmania

Annapurna
$30,000

Ama Dablam
$4,200

Dhaulagiri
$11,500

Putha Hiunchuli
$9,000

Pokalde
$2,500

Pumori
$13,000

Dhampus Peak
$2,200

Shishapangma
$30,000

Gangapurna
$12,000

Api Himal
$12,000

Cho Oyu
$25,000

Makalu
$24,000

Lhotse
$25,000

Chulu east
$2,500

Baruntse
$12,000

Himlung Himal
$9,000

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Discover the Expertise of Mountmania

Mountmania Reviews & Ratings

All reviews of Mountmania

View 0 Reviews for Mountmania

Trips offered by Mountmania

Annapurna$30,000

Ama Dablam$4,200

Dhaulagiri$11,500

Putha Hiunchuli$9,000

Pokalde$2,500

Pumori$13,000

Dhampus Peak$2,200

Shishapangma$30,000

Gangapurna$12,000

Api Himal$12,000

Cho Oyu$25,000

Makalu$24,000

Lhotse$25,000

Chulu east$2,500

Baruntse$12,000

Himlung Himal$9,000