Climbing Forbidden peak
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Forbidden Peak, located in the rugged North Cascades of the United States, is a classic alpine climbing destination that commands respect with its imposing presence and technical routes. Standing at an elevation of 8,815 feet, it demands a climber's full attention to route-finding and climbing technique. The mountain is primarily known for its West Ridge, a route that combines rock climbing with an exhilarating alpine experience. Climbers must be prepared for the variable conditions typical of the Cascades, where weather can change rapidly, adding to the challenge and adventure of the ascent.
The West Ridge is perhaps the most popular route on Forbidden Peak, offering a satisfying combination of moderate rock climbing and stunning exposure. The approach to the base of the climb involves navigating the Boston Basin, a breathtaking yet demanding start that sets the stage for what’s to come. Once on the ridge, climbers are treated to solid rock and a series of enjoyable pitches that require focus and skill, particularly given the mountain's notorious reputation for loose rocks in certain areas. It's a climb that offers both physical and mental challenges, rewarding those who are well-prepared and adaptable.
Climbing Forbidden Peak is a rite of passage for many mountaineers drawn to the North Cascades. The experience is enhanced by the mountain's remote location, which offers a sense of isolation and pristine wilderness that many seek. As with any serious alpine climb, it’s crucial to assess conditions closely and be prepared for self-sufficiency in this rugged environment. For those interested in guided ascents, there are 14 guides that offer expeditions up Forbidden Peak. Whether going solo or with a guide, the climb promises to be a memorable and challenging endeavor.
Difficulty
- AD: Fairly hard (alpine grade 3)
Guide links
Forbidden peak History
Climbing history of Forbidden peak
Forbidden Peak, nestled in Washington's North Cascades, has a storied history marked by early summit attempts that capture the adventurous spirit of climbers. The first recorded ascent was accomplished on July 5, 1940, by a team consisting of Bill Cox, Will F. Thompson, and Calder Bressler. Their successful climb via the West Ridge was a testament to their skill and determination, setting a precedent for future climbers.
The area surrounding Forbidden Peak is historically significant to the indigenous peoples who have lived in the region for thousands of years, with their rich cultural heritage intertwined with the rugged landscape of the North Cascades.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Forbidden peak climb.