Climbing Longs Peak
United States
Longs Peak, standing prominently in the United States, is a formidable challenge for mountaineers seeking to test their skills in the Rocky Mountains. This 14,259-foot behemoth is located in Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park and is renowned for its picturesque yet demanding ascent. The most popular route, the Keyhole Route, is not just a hike but a technical climb, requiring careful navigation through steep inclines, narrow ledges, and a final scramble over the Homestretch. The climb is best attempted in the warmer months when snow and ice recede, although conditions can change rapidly even in summer.
The difficulty of Longs Peak should not be underestimated. As you ascend, the trail becomes increasingly challenging, especially past the Boulder Field where the true nature of the climb reveals itself. The weather on Longs Peak is notoriously unpredictable; sudden storms can sweep in with little warning, making it essential for climbers to be prepared for a variety of conditions. Acclimatization is critical as the altitude can be taxing, and many climbers opt for an early morning start to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. The rewards, however, are substantial, with sweeping views that encompass much of the Rocky Mountain National Park.
While the allure of reaching the summit is compelling, safety should remain a priority. Make sure your gear is up to the task, especially for the technical sections that require sure-footedness and a steady hand. Longs Peak is not just a climb but an experience that demands respect and preparation. If you’re considering an expedition, there are 9 guides available who offer climbs up Longs Peak, providing support for those who seek it.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
Guide links
Longs Peak History
Climbing history of Longs Peak
Longs Peak, a prominent feature in the northern Front Range of the Rocky Mountains, has a rich history that dates back to the early exploration of the American West. The peak is named after Major Stephen H. Long, who led an expedition to the area in 1820. However, it was the early summit attempts that truly marked the beginning of its mountaineering history.
The first recorded ascent of Longs Peak was achieved by the renowned naturalist John Wesley Powell in 1868. Powell, who later gained fame for his explorations of the Colorado River, made the ascent with a party that included William Byers, editor of the Rocky Mountain News. Their successful climb via the east side, now known as the Keyhole Route, paved the way for future mountaineers.
In the years following Powell's ascent, Longs Peak became a popular destination for climbers and adventurers. One of the most notable figures in the peak's climbing history is Enos Mills, often referred to as the "Father of Rocky Mountain National Park." Mills made numerous ascents of Longs Peak and was instrumental in promoting the conservation of the surrounding area, leading to the establishment of the national park in 1915.
The history of Longs Peak also intersects with the indigenous people who lived in the region long before European exploration. The Ute and Arapaho tribes inhabited the area, utilizing the mountains for hunting and spiritual purposes. Their deep connection to the land adds another layer to the rich history of Longs Peak.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Longs Peak climb.
