Pico de Orizaba, at 5,636 meters, is the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. It&rsquo;s a dormant stratovolcano with a classic conical shape, sitting on the border between the states of Puebla and Veracruz. The most common route is the Jamapa Glacier Route, which starts from the Piedra Grande Hut (4,260m) and follows a long scree slope before reaching the glacier. While not technical, the altitude is the biggest challenge, and conditions on the glacier vary&mdash;sometimes hard ice, sometimes soft snow, depending on the season.
The standard approach begins from Tlachichuca, a small town where climbers typically arrange 4x4 transport to Piedra Grande. The hut is basic but functional, and most teams spend at least one night there for acclimatization before the summit push. From the hut, the route climbs through a mix of rocky terrain and loose volcanic ash before reaching the glacier at around 5,000m. The upper section is a steady, moderately steep ascent where crampons and an ice axe are needed, though rope use depends on conditions. The crater rim at the summit is wide and offers panoramic views, with distant glimpses of Popocat&eacute;petl and Iztacc&iacute;huatl on clear days.
Despite being one of the easiest 5,000-meter peaks to access, Pico de Orizaba is still a serious high-altitude climb, requiring proper acclimatization and good fitness. Weather can shift quickly, and strong winds are common above 5,000m. Late in the season, crevasses sometimes open on the glacier, so checking recent reports is important. While some climbers attempt it in a single-day push, spending a night at the hut or camping higher up improves summit chances. It&rsquo;s a great objective for those looking to experience altitude without extreme technical demands, but still requires respect for the conditions and preparation for the altitude effects.

A basic stone refuge and the standard base camp for climbers on the Jamapa Glacier route, offering minimal shelter but no facilities.

Piedra Grande Hut

The point where the route transitions from loose volcanic rock to the Jamapa Glacier, requiring crampons and ice axes for the final ascent.

Glacier Edge

The highest point in Mexico, featuring a wide volcanic crater and expansive views across the surrounding landscape.

Summit of Pico de Orizaba

The climb follows a straightforward route from Piedra Grande Hut (4,260m) to the glacier edge (5,000m) before ascending the Jamapa Glacier to the summit at 5,636m. Most climbers complete the ascent in a single push, with no established high camps along the route.

French Alpine	Difficulty description	Quantity
F	Easy. Suitable for beginners, minimal technical skills required.	0
PD	Not very difficult. Some technical skills required, with moderate exposure.	1
AD	Fairly difficult. Requires good technical skills and experience, with significant exposure.	0
D	Difficult. Requires advanced technical skills and experience, with high exposure.	0
TD	Very difficult. Requires very advanced technical skills, experience, and serious commitment.	0
ED	Extremely difficult. Requires exceptional technical skills, experience, and high commitment.	0

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