Climbing Pico de Orizaba
Also known as: Citlaltépetl
Mexico
The Pico de Orizaba, also known as Citlaltépetl, stands as a formidable challenge for mountaineers in Mexico. At an impressive height of 5,636 meters (18,491 feet), it holds the title of the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest in North America. For those who have honed their skills and are looking for a rewarding climb, this dormant stratovolcano offers a mix of technical and non-technical routes, with the most popular being the Jamapa Glacier route. The climb requires solid mountaineering skills, particularly in glacier travel and crevasse navigation, due to the icy conditions near the summit.
Expect the climb to test your mettle with its altitude and weather conditions. The ascent involves navigating through rough volcanic terrain, with loose scree and rock sections that can be quite challenging. The weather can be unpredictable, with sudden snowstorms and high winds common at these altitudes. Acclimatization is crucial, as the thin air at the summit can be unforgiving. Most climbers tackle the ascent over several days, allowing time to adjust to the altitude and prepare for the final push to the summit under favorable conditions.
While the difficulty of Pico de Orizaba shouldn't be underestimated, the experience of reaching its summit is immensely rewarding. From the peak, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views that stretch across the Mexican landscape, a fitting reward for the effort required to get there. For those interested, there are 11 guides offering expeditions up the mountain, providing various levels of support, from logistical assistance to full guiding services. Whether climbing independently or with assistance, the journey to Pico de Orizaba's summit is an experience that leaves a lasting impression.
Table of contents
Route
- 1,376 m gain over 2 days
- Starting and ending in Piedra Grande Hut
- approach: drive, walk in
Walk in
- +1,660 m over a 21 km approach
- 1 days in
- 1 days out
Climb
- +1,376 m over 1 day.
- 0 high camps. Most climbers ascend directly from Piedra Grande Hut.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
Cost
- $200 solo
When to go
- November to March
Permits
- 1 permit is needed
- costing around $4 total
Guide mandatory?
- no
- Guides are not legally required
These are pictures taken while climbing Pico de Orizaba. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Pico de Orizaba, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Pico de Orizaba History
Climbing history of Pico de Orizaba
The history of Pico de Orizaba is deeply tied to the indigenous Nahua people, who have lived in the region for centuries. They named the mountain Citlaltépetl, meaning "Star Mountain," due to its prominence and the way it gleams under the night sky.
One of the earliest recorded European attempts to summit Pico de Orizaba occurred in the 16th century when Spanish explorer Diego de Ordaz reportedly tried to reach the peak. Although there are no detailed accounts confirming his success, this attempt marked the beginning of European interest in the mountain.
In the 19th century, the mountain attracted more explorers and climbers. In 1838, French scientist Henri Galeotti made strides in documenting the flora and geology of the area, contributing to the scientific understanding of the region. During the same century, the mountain became a focal point for national pride, as it was recognized as the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest in North America.
The first confirmed ascent is attributed to a group of American climbers led by Frederick Starr in 1848. They successfully reached the summit, paving the way for future climbers and establishing the mountain as a popular destination for adventurers worldwide.
Piedra Grande Hut
Glacier Edge
Summit of Pico de Orizaba
Pico de Orizaba weather
How is the weather on Pico de Orizaba, and when is the best time to go.
The best time to climb Pico de Orizaba is in these months:
- Nov
- Dec
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
Pico de Orizaba Services
Gear rental, porters, guides, transport, internet, accommodation
Accommodation
Most climbers stay in Tlachichuca before and after the climb, where there are guesthouses and climbing lodges. At the mountain, Piedra Grande Hut (4,260m) serves as the primary base camp, though some climbers prefer to camp outside.Food
There are no food services on the mountain, so climbers must bring their own meals. Tlachichuca has small restaurants and stores where basic supplies can be purchased before the climb.Guides
Guides are available for hire in Tlachichuca, typically costing between $300-$600 per person, depending on group size and included services. Guides help with navigation, pacing, and glacier safety.Porters
Porters are not commonly used on Pico de Orizaba, as most climbers carry their own gear. However, some logistics providers offer mule or porter services to help transport loads to Piedra Grande Hut.Medical facilities
Tlachichuca has small medical clinics and pharmacies, but there are no medical services on the mountain.Gear rental
Climbing gear such as crampons, ice axes, and helmets can be rented in Tlachichuca. However, personal items like boots, clothing, and harnesses should be brought for proper fit and reliability.Transport
Most climbers take a bus or drive to Tlachichuca, then hire a 4x4 vehicle to reach Piedra Grande Hut. The road to base camp is rough and not suitable for standard vehicles.Internet / Phone
Cell service is available in Tlachichuca but is unreliable or nonexistent on the mountain. There is no Wi-Fi at Piedra Grande Hut, so climbers should plan for limited communication during the ascent.ATMs
Tlachichuca has limited ATM access, and cash is preferred for most services. Bring sufficient cash for transport, lodging, and permits.Shops
There are small convenience stores in Tlachichuca selling basic food, snacks, and fuel. However, specialized climbing gear and high-quality dehydrated meals are not widely available.Pico de Orizaba permits
What permits are needed for climbing Pico de Orizaba
1. Parque Nacional Pico de Orizaba Entry Permit
- $3.5 (~58 in the local currency)
- This permit grants access to the national park encompassing Pico de Orizaba.
- Purchase in cash en route to Refugio Piedra Grande; local transport providers can guide you to the payment location.
Pico de Orizaba access - getting there
How to get to Pico de Orizaba
There are multiple ways to get to and from the start of the Pico de Orizaba climb, depending on your approach:
Getting to the Start of the Climb
- From Mexico City: Take a bus to Puebla or directly to Tlachichuca, the main staging town for the climb.
- From Puebla: Buses run regularly to Tlachichuca, which is the closest major town with climbing infrastructure.
- From Tlachichuca to Piedra Grande Hut: Climbers typically hire 4x4 transportation from Tlachichuca to the Piedra Grande Hut (4,260m), which is the base camp for the Jamapa Glacier route.
Returning from the Climb
- Descending to Piedra Grande Hut: After summiting, climbers return to the hut via the same route.
- 4x4 Transport Back to Tlachichuca: Most climbers prearrange a return ride from Piedra Grande Hut to Tlachichuca.
- From Tlachichuca: Buses and private transport are available to return to Puebla or Mexico City.
The climb is typically done as an out-and-back route, so most climbers finish where they started.
Pico de Orizaba questions
What to know about climbing Pico de Orizaba
Common questions people have about this trek, if yours isn’t here - add it to get an answer.