Pico de Orizaba

Pico de Orizaba, at 5,636 meters, is the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. It’s a dormant stratovolcano with a classic conical shape, sitting on the border between the states of Puebla and Veracruz. The most common route is the Jamapa Glacier Route, which starts from the Piedra Grande Hut (4,260m) and follows a long scree slope before reaching the glacier. While not technical, the altitude is the biggest challenge, and conditions on the glacier vary—sometimes hard ice, sometimes soft snow, depending on the season.

The standard approach begins from Tlachichuca, a small town where climbers typically arrange 4x4 transport to Piedra Grande. The hut is basic but functional, and most teams spend at least one night there for acclimatization before the summit push. From the hut, the route climbs through a mix of rocky terrain and loose volcanic ash before reaching the glacier at around 5,000m. The upper section is a steady, moderately steep ascent where crampons and an ice axe are needed, though rope use depends on conditions. The crater rim at the summit is wide and offers panoramic views, with distant glimpses of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl on clear days.

Despite being one of the easiest 5,000-meter peaks to access, Pico de Orizaba is still a serious high-altitude climb, requiring proper acclimatization and good fitness. Weather can shift quickly, and strong winds are common above 5,000m. Late in the season, crevasses sometimes open on the glacier, so checking recent reports is important. While some climbers attempt it in a single-day push, spending a night at the hut or camping higher up improves summit chances. It’s a great objective for those looking to experience altitude without extreme technical demands, but still requires respect for the conditions and preparation for the altitude effects.