Climbing Spantik peak

Also known as: Golden Peak / Spantik-Sosbun Mountains

Height: 7,027 m
Country:
Pakistan flagPakistan

Spantik Peak, also known as Golden Peak, stands proudly in the Karakoram Range in Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,027 meters, it offers a challenging yet rewarding climb for seasoned alpinists. The ascent is typically tackled via the South East Ridge, which presents a mix of rock and ice climbing. This route is less technical compared to other Karakoram giants, making it an attractive option for those looking to experience high-altitude climbing in a less crowded environment. However, don't be deceived by its relative accessibility; the altitude and unpredictable weather conditions demand serious preparation and respect.

The conditions on Spantik can vary drastically, with the best climbing window being between late June and early September. During this period, the snow conditions are generally more stable, but climbers should be prepared for sudden weather changes, including heavy snowfall and high winds. The climb itself is a beautiful journey through glaciated terrain, with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks of the Karakoram. It's essential to be well-versed in glacier travel and crevasse rescue, as these skills are crucial for a safe ascent.

Approaching the base camp involves a trek through remote valleys, which adds to the adventure and allure of climbing Spantik Peak. The solitude and pristine nature of the area are invigorating, offering a true mountaineering experience away from the more commercialized peaks. For those interested in climbing Spantik Peak, there are 13 guides that offer expeditions, ensuring a range of support options to suit various preferences and experience levels. Whether you're seeking solitude or a chance to hone your high-altitude skills, this peak provides a unique challenge in the heart of the Karakoram.

Prepare for an adventure climbing Spantik peak. This overview provides essential details on routes, difficulty, costs, and the best times to go, helping you plan a successful expedition.

Difficulty

  • PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)

When to go

  • June to August

Permits

  • 2 permits are needed
  • costing around $1050 total

Guide mandatory?

  • no

These are pictures taken while climbing Spantik peak. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Spantik peak, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.

Guide links

These guides offer organised climbs for Spantik peak. Compare each trip - pricing, reviews, and key details to help you choose the right guide. To explore more options / routes, check out our full Guides Directory.
We've carefully selected these independent guides based on their expertise with Spantik peak. Compare their offerings, from group sizes and equipment inclusion to trip duration and support services. Each guide brings their own unique approach, so you can find the perfect match for your adventure. Click through to see full details and connect directly with any guide that interests you.

Spantik peak History

Climbing history of Spantik peak

Spantik Peak, also known as Golden Peak, has a history that reflects the challenging nature of the Karakoram mountains. The first recorded attempt to climb Spantik was made in 1955 by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer. They approached the peak via the Chogolungma Glacier, but were unsuccessful in their attempt to reach the summit.

The first successful ascent of Spantik was achieved in 1959 by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer, along with team members Adolf Dinkelmann and Matthias Rebitsch. This ascent marked a significant achievement in the history of climbing in the Karakoram region.

The region surrounding Spantik is inhabited by the Balti people, who are known for their rich cultural heritage and resilience in the harsh mountainous environment.

The Spantik Peak climbing itinerary typically includes a base camp at 4300 meters, followed by acclimatization stops at Camp 1 (5100m) and Camp 2 (5650m). The high camp at 6295 meters serves as the final staging point for the summit push, reaching the majestic Spantik Summit at 7027 meters.

base-camp
Base Camp

The starting point of the Spantik Peak expedition, situated at an elevation of 4300 meters.
4,300 m

high-camp
Camp 1

The first acclimatization stop at an elevation of 5100 meters.
5,100 m

high-camp
Camp 2

The second acclimatization stop at an elevation of 5650 meters.
5,650 m

high-camp
Camp 3 - High Camp

A high-altitude camp at 6295 meters, providing a launch point for the summit push.
6,295 m

summit
Spantik Summit

The culmination of the expedition, Spantik Summit at 7027 meters offers breathtaking panoramic views.
7,027 m
Explore the 3D route map for a realistic view of the ascent to Spantik peak. This interactive map provides a close-up look at key points like base camp and high-altitude camps along the way. For those planning their own expeditions, it offers a helpful overview of the mountain's terrain and surroundings.

Spantik peak permits

What permits are needed for climbing Spantik peak

Climbing Spantik peak requires a climbing permit and a trekking permit, which must be obtained in advance through a registered tour operator in Pakistan.

1. Climbing Permit

  • $1000 (~-1 in the local currency)
  • A permit required for climbing peaks above 6500 meters in Pakistan.
  • Must be arranged in advance through a government-recognized tour operator.

2. Trekking Permit

  • $50 (~-1 in the local currency)
  • Permit required for trekking in the region surrounding Spantik peak.
  • Available through tour operators or local government offices.
What you can see from the summit of Spantik peak. Click and pan around the map to explore, and zoom in/out to see the names of neighbouring mountains.

Spantik peak Links

useful websites, Groups and communities

Groups / links with more info on the Spantik peak route.

These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Spantik peak climb.

climm Gasherbrum 2
Gasherbrum 2
 PD
Pakistan
$6,810
 8,035 m
climm Diran
Diran
 PD
Pakistan
$3,395
 7,266 m