Climbing Mount Foraker
United States
Standing at an impressive 17,400 feet, Mount Foraker is the second-highest peak in the Alaska Range and a formidable challenge for seasoned climbers. Located in the United States within the stunning Denali National Park, it offers a different kind of solitude compared to its more famous neighbor, Denali. The mountain has two main summits, the North Peak and the South Peak, with the North Peak being the higher of the two. The most common route is the Sultana Ridge, a long and committing climb known for its stunning views and intricate navigation through crevasses and corniced ridges.
The technical difficulty of climbing Mount Foraker should not be underestimated. The weather conditions can be severe, with high winds and rapid temperature changes being the norm rather than the exception. The ascent requires proficiency in glacier travel, ice climbing, and crevasse rescue. Many climbers appreciate the relative isolation of this mountain, as it sees far fewer ascents than Denali. The remote location and demanding technical aspects make it a serious undertaking that requires careful planning and a solid understanding of alpine climbing techniques.
Unlike other popular peaks, there are currently 0 guides offering expeditions or climbs up Mount Foraker. This means that climbers must be self-sufficient and ready to tackle the challenges on their own. The reward for those who reach the summit is a breathtaking panorama of the Alaska Range and the satisfaction of having conquered one of North America's most challenging peaks. It's a worthy goal for any mountaineer looking to test themselves against one of the continent's most impressive natural features.
Difficulty
- D: Hard (alpine grade 4)
These are pictures taken while climbing Mount Foraker. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Mount Foraker, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Mount Foraker History
Climbing history of Mount Foraker
Mount Foraker, the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, has a storied history marked by early summit attempts that tested the mettle of climbers. In 1934, an ambitious group made the first recorded attempt to reach the summit. The team, led by explorer Charles Houston, was forced to turn back due to severe weather conditions, showcasing the mountain's formidable challenges.
The first successful ascent came in 1934, when a team led by Charles Houston and including T. Graham Brown reached the summit via the southeast ridge. This achievement not only marked a significant milestone in mountaineering history but also highlighted the technical demands and unpredictable weather of the Alaska Range.
The indigenous Dena'ina people, who have lived in the region for centuries, refer to the mountain as "Sultana," meaning "the woman" in their language. This name reflects the deep cultural significance of the mountain to the native communities.
Throughout the years, Mount Foraker has continued to attract climbers from around the world, each seeking to conquer its challenging routes and experience the breathtaking beauty of the Alaska Range. The mountain's history is a testament to human perseverance and the enduring allure of high-altitude exploration.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Mount Foraker climb.
