Climbing Broad Peak
Pakistan
Broad Peak, located in the Karakoram range of Pakistan, stands as a formidable climb for those seeking to challenge their mountaineering skills. The mountain reaches a height of 8,051 meters, making it the 12th highest peak in the world. Known for its lengthy summit ridge, the approach to the top is not as straightforward as some might expect. The climb involves tackling several false summits before reaching the true peak, and this can be quite demanding both physically and mentally. The conditions on Broad Peak are harsh, with unpredictable weather that can change rapidly, adding another layer of complexity to the ascent.
Climbing Broad Peak does not require technical climbing skills to the extent of some other peaks of similar stature, but its altitude and extreme conditions should not be underestimated. The normal route, which is the most commonly taken path, begins from the Godwin-Austen Glacier. From there, climbers face a long and arduous journey up the west ridge. The route is mostly straightforward, but the high altitude and low oxygen levels can be punishing. Acclimatization is key, and many climbers set up multiple camps along the route to aid in this vital process. The lack of fixed ropes in some sections requires climbers to be self-sufficient and capable of making critical decisions on their feet.
For those experienced in high-altitude climbing, Broad Peak offers a rewarding challenge. The ascent provides breathtaking views of the surrounding Karakoram giants, including the formidable K2. While there is no shortage of logistical hurdles, the sense of achievement upon reaching the summit is unparalleled. It’s worth noting that there are 13 guides that offer expeditions up Broad Peak, providing various levels of support for those who seek it.
Difficulty
- PD: Not very hard (alpine grade 2)
When to go
- June to August
These are pictures taken while climbing Broad Peak. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Broad Peak, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Broad Peak History
Climbing history of Broad Peak
Broad Peak, the twelfth highest mountain in the world, has a history as dramatic and challenging as its towering summit. Early attempts to conquer this formidable peak began in the mid-20th century. In 1954, a German expedition led by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer made the first serious attempt. Despite their efforts, they were forced to turn back due to harsh weather conditions and logistical challenges.
It wasn't until 1957 that Broad Peak was successfully summited. An Austrian team led by Marcus Schmuck, with team members Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl, and Kurt Diemberger, managed to reach the top on June 9th, completing the ascent without supplemental oxygen. This expedition is notable for its alpine-style approach, which was a departure from the siege tactics commonly used at the time.
The region around Broad Peak is inhabited by the Balti people, who are known for their rich cultural heritage and history of assisting mountaineering expeditions. Their knowledge of the rugged terrain has been invaluable to climbers seeking to navigate these formidable mountains.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Broad Peak climb.
