Climbing Rakaposhi
Pakistan
Rakaposhi, located in the Karakoram range of Paksitan, stands at an impressive 7,788 meters. Known for its prominence and aesthetic beauty, the climb is not one to be underestimated. The mountain presents a formidable challenge with its steep slopes and massive glacial systems. Unlike some other peaks, Rakaposhi offers a direct ascent from the base to the summit, a rare feature that adds to its allure for seasoned mountaineers. The mountain's northwest ridge is the most commonly attempted route, but it's a route that demands respect and preparation.
Weather and conditions on Rakaposhi can be unpredictable and harsh. The climb usually involves dealing with deep snow and potential avalanche risks, especially after fresh snowfall. The technical difficulty increases as you ascend, with crevasses and icefalls presenting significant obstacles. The high altitude and steep sections require not just physical endurance but also mental fortitude. Proper acclimatization is crucial, and climbers should be ready to face sudden changes in weather, which can include fierce winds and heavy snowstorms.
For those prepared to tackle it, Rakaposhi offers a rewarding experience, with breathtaking views and the satisfaction of conquering one of the tallest peaks in the Karakoram. The solitude and raw beauty of the mountain are unforgettable. There are currently 7 guides offering expeditions to climb Rakaposhi, providing opportunities for those ready to take on this thrilling ascent.
Difficulty
- D: Hard (alpine grade 4)
When to go
- June to August
These are pictures taken while climbing Rakaposhi. They're shown here to give you an idea of what the route is like. You're welcome to share your own pictures of mountaineering Rakaposhi, to help the community of climbers. Picture here are either uploaded by members (there own, or creative commons pictures), or guides.
Guide links
Rakaposhi History
Climbing history of Rakaposhi
The history of Rakaposhi's ascent is marked by a series of determined yet challenging attempts before its first successful summit. Located in the Karakoram range, this majestic peak was an alluring challenge for mountaineers in the mid-20th century.
Early summit attempts on Rakaposhi began in 1947 when a British-American team explored the mountain but did not achieve the summit. Subsequent attempts in 1954 and 1955, led by British and Pakistani teams respectively, also ended without success due to harsh weather conditions and technical difficulties.
The breakthrough came in 1958 when a British-Pakistani expedition, led by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, successfully reached the summit on June 25th. This ascent was achieved via the Southwest Ridge, marking a significant achievement in the history of mountaineering in the Karakoram region.
The area surrounding Rakaposhi is home to the local Hunza people, known for their rich cultural heritage and hospitable nature, adding a unique dimension to the history of this remarkable mountain.
These climbs are similar in length, difficulty, and elevation. Offering a similar level of challenge as the Rakaposhi climb.
